Ron & Darrell

How did you get on with the Insurance company, & what cost if any?

How do we stand with Skoda Warranty if this is done?

 

Ta, and it sounds very interesting.

Ron & Darrell

How did you get on with the Insurance company, & what cost if any?

How do we stand with Skoda Warranty if this is done?

 

Ta, and it sounds very interesting.

Slight increase but worth it no warrenty issues as yet

Yes very minor increase on insurance. Warranty runs out in two months so not really worried about that

Thanks for the info guys been thinking of getting my Greenline re-mapped for a while now.

 

Just read DarrellGB's reply re: warranty but would like some more info before going ahead with it.

 

I heard from a reliable source that the next time you get a Skoda garage to service your car, it will be noted that it's been re-mapped and therefore your warranty becomes null and void and some Skoda garages refuse to work on your car???

 

Thank you in advance

 

 

Mark L

Edited 26 October, 201411 yr by Mark L

Warrenty is only voided on the part modified, so I this case, if the ECU goes wrong (highly unlikely) it could be on you.

Warrenty is only voided on the part modified,

+ Engine components, + gearbox + drive shafts  etc. in fact anything they can blame the remap for in real life though.

+ Engine components, + gearbox + drive shafts  etc. in fact anything they can blame the remap for in real life though.

Potentially, if you get a funny dealership. I've got a longstanding relationship / friendship with the guys at mine and have been upfront, even had them taking it for a spin as most of them are into modifying

Your friend can say what he likes, but SUK can still refuse to pay for things. They always have the final approval.

Relatively new to the Skoda world  

Owned my 1.6 greenline for a year now.  Covered 9500 miles.  Great little car.    Now, I feel pretty well educated in the area of performance diesel tuning.   There's not much my 5 cylinder turbo diesel defender hasn't had modified (remap, decat, midbox silencer removed, EGR valve removed, Turbo boost modulator to prevent ecu overboosting, modified transfer box, performance air intake, cylinder head modifications.   It seriously shifts and also drinks fuel which is why I bought a nice, high quality, reliable, daily drive, low cost running 1.6 yeti. HOWEVER.... I'm no speed freak, I don't want greater acceleration etc however I do feel, EVERYDAY that on my home-run, the Yeti does run out of steam at times, drops off in speed when driving up long steady inclines on the motorway... I can obviously overcome this by putting my foot down and keeping the revs higher in 5th... or even dropping a peg (which I usually have to do) however I don't want to do that... can result in the speed limit being broken before I know it and increased fuel consumption.  I had my last daily drive (55 plate 2.0tdi Audi A4 Sline) remaped (stage 1) and it made a dramatic effect to the torque and ease of driving. However that was an old engine and was fairly common.  No filters to choke it up either.  The Yeti is another case...

 

What's bothering me regarding a Stage 1 remap on my greenline?

 

You remap an engine and the EGT (Exhaust Gas Temps) rise. Don't want to cause issues with my baby! :-P    The Landy has a very strong fuelling map installed, hence the PWR intercooler on there too to give more power and bring those temps down.  Don't fancy adding an uprated one for the Yeti, so a mild, light remap is something I'm looking into. Not after mad figures that might be plucked from the tuners imagination. 

Who do you trust in the VAG world?  I know all too well that in the LR performance tuning world there are people who know their stuff and folks who make remaps that are complete garbage often resulting in the vehicle being sent to an engineer that knows what they're doing... these are generally only found by word of mouth.  Some companies that release such crap are often the largest and multi-million pound turnover businesses that don't know the intricacies of certain newer models.  That's another story...

Engine heat saturation.  With the EGR and especially the DPF blocking the flow of exhaust gases, that heat transfers back towards the engine.   I can't remove the DPF as far as I know.  A remap will only exacerbate DPF clogging issues. 

I would like a bit more oomph however I don't want to do anything that will cause me to have issues with the yeti's reliability.  Had I known the 1.6 would have had this slightly annoying "power drop off" trait of course I could have bought a 140.   

Just fancy a bit more driveability and a more relaxing, less gear dropping drive.   

 

Any advice welcomed. Thanks. 

Hi TD5,

Shark performance never chase big figures but focus on drivability in the real world and within the safe peramiters of the car. Many people have had their maps over many thousands of miles with no issues.

As a fairly well known person I don't give endorsement to anyone, but the integrity, professionalism and honesty of Ben and his team have impressed me very much. As well giving me a Yeti Greenline which puts a smile on my face every time I drive it and a relaxing ride on long trips.

Hope that gives you a little confidence to go for it, or at least have a chat with them.

Agree with Darrell, Shark have a very good reputation on this site, so I would suggest talking to them.

It does.  TBH, Shark performance is a name that comes up a few times on the net/forums.  I also did some research into your posts regarding your 1.6.  Although it seems the 1.6 tdi in our yeti has been around a while now, am I right in saying it is only recent by Shark performance... if not all tuners... that they have been able to add the new fuelling remap via flashing it.  i.e. plugging the laptop in, instead of cracking the ecu open and physically soldering a chip in there?

Is your DPF still fitted to yours?  

 

Can't comment on the impact to a Greenline, as I went for the opposite end of the spectrum, but I've had a Shark stage 1 on my 170 for 5000 miles now and it has made it much more fun to drive, and hasn't hurt the economy at all (probably improved by 1-2%, but I tend to accelerate faster now to compensate!). Due to a lot of shortish runs I often interrupt the regen, so have got used to the change in engine note, and often notice when a regen cycle starts. There doesn't appear to be any increase in regens since the remap - I've no way to confirm this, but so far I haven't found any downsides.

I haven't noticed a single DPF regen tbh!  Don't see any plumes/puffs of smoke from the back end, however, after one particular spirited run to see if I could coax the unit into a regen I did turn off the engine once home and heard a sound almost like the engine fan running but a lot more....well.... "grrrrrish"  Had I interrupted a regen then?

Edited 6 November, 201411 yr by TD5

I like the look of Shark's figures... by the looks of it with your rather precise BHP and torque figures yours has been on a rolling road for testing, am I right Darrell? 

£400 though. :-O   Ouch!

 

For tech as old as the current 1.6 I'd have thought it might have been around the £300 mark tbh.  Generally the harder it is to map the ecu with new parameters and investment costs in software etc it ramps up the cost.  That's Range Rover sport, Evoque, TDv8 remapping costs man!   Don't doubt the quality of the tuning though.   Do they do deals as often as DFS sofa specialists? :-D

Edited 6 November, 201411 yr by TD5

I'd contact them as you may get a Briskoda discount (mine was used for development) and yes it was set up on their rolling road

It's also a complete custom map not an 'off the shelf' generic one, as not many people have done much with the 1.6tdi, especially in the Yeti.

TD5 why not just go a decent tuning box instead such as a DTUK, if just after a little extra driveability, I think Darrell's one is still forsale in the classifields.

It is, a nice piece of kit at a bargain price

Just seen all replies. Including pm on the box. Thanks for the offer however I don't rate any tuning box. It's an integral fuelling remap in the ecu or nothing tbh. So many advantages from an efficiency and safety aspect.

Reading Darrells posts regarding his Shark remap. That's the route to go tbh. Regardless of extra cost.

Any tuning box basically acts as a jumper. Regardless of what the retailer says, all it does is extends the injection pulse width and puts fuel in at the wrong point of the stroke which ultimately can lead to problems including bore wash. Some more modern units like Darells are a fraction more intelligent - but not much. You might make a fraction more power, but not in an efficient manner as per the Shark remap etc.

They are, and always will be a bodge method of tuning in my opinion. Psi boxes at £500 are among the worst I've seen. Cracked them open with tech inside that can be recreated with a 50p resistor. Insane.

Insurers are more welcoming of stage 1 remaps these days as the tuning tech is more reliable and more common. My Land Rover can be classed as stage 3 level of tuning with all mods declared and power figures stated over standard. Insurance is still only a smidge ober £300!

After the decent, well documented posts by Darrell my decision will be a Shark stage 1 map after the warranty on the yeti has come to an end. Either that or I'll speak to Rainworth Skoda to see if they'll honour the warranty with a light stage 1.

Great forum Nice to see an area dedicated to performa upgrades too.

Tuning boxes are not necessarily a botch job,  I have a RaceChip box fitted on my 140 DSG, on the middle of their recommended settings, and the car is much better to drive - much more responsive, far better acceleration, and it will now cruise at 75 in 6th on quite hilly roads when before it would drop into 5th or even 4th at times.  Best of all, the fuel consumption has improved by 3 mpg (using real brim-to-brim data) even though I use the extra performance a fair bit.  When it went in for service I disconnected the box for a while;  the drop in performance was instantly obvious and the next fill-up was back down to the old MPG.  I don't expect the DPF to be affected and I've never been aware of a regen in 20,000 miles of mixed driving.

 

Downside?  The maxidot fuel calculations are wrong - now even more optimistic than they used to be, which affects the 'range' prediction.

 

This set-up won't be as good as a proper remap but it isn't going to be far short, is removable within seconds (and transferrable to another car) and isn't affected by any dealer software upgrades.  I had this box on my Jaguar XF and although it pushed the power up from 275 to over 300 the effect was much less noticeable than on the Yeti and MPG was not improved.

DTUK's units are a bit more than a resistor in a box! And the new CRDt+ units are a step up again, plus they develop the mapping on rolling roads, they have even used Sharks RR to develop on.

Clearly some higher calibration than a psi box.  However let me ask you this.  How does the tuning box know NOT to add more fuel during a DPF regeneration.  

Also, not being rude as you've helped me make my stage 1 decision but why go down the route of a remap over the DTUK plug in.  It's because they work in 100% perfect harmony with the diesel engines engine management system.   Tuning boxes will always be a "middle man" effecting the performance in a positive way but not always in a way that is beneficial for the health of the engine and exhaust system.  

Edited 11 November, 201411 yr by TD5