I recently bought a poverty spec FL Octavia with the intention of retrofitting what I couldn't live without.

First on the list was maxidot but I can't find a cluster for love nor money.

I would also really like to add bluetooth phone prep with a shark fin aerial. Is this possible without maxidot?

If so, which is the best module, features and price?

At the moment I have a HTC phone which has been rooted with software for RSAP.

If its a Bolero head unit you can use a 7p6.. j or 5k0...d or above unit and pair it from the phone in HFP mode without maxidot.  All phones work in HFP and RSAP won't be an option for you anyway with those modules.

Forget RSAP, stick with HFP.

I had a module working with an iPhone and without Maxidot but will have to check my old scans to get the part number.

Thanks Adam and Karl, I will start researching these modules.

I probably need to understand the difference between RSAP and HFP before jumping in and buying something. My old car had RSAP so I understand how that works but don't know anything about HFP.

My main question with HFP is would I still need to fit the shark fin aerial or will the phone antenna still work?

No extra antenna needed. The phone retains control over the sim in HFP and its therefore the phone's antenna thats used. Like RSAP, HFP supports download of the phone book to the headunit but it needs to be one of the more modern ones, eg Bolero or Columbus. You don't get text readout or other premium functions with HFP though, but its hardly an issue.

Thanks Adam, looks like HFP is the way to go then!

Do you know what the difference in call quality is as I always found RSAP to be excellent. Also will I need any coding without maxidot? Will it work also if I ever retro fitted maxidot?

Sorry for all the questions, just want to make sure I will be making the right decision.

Its fine. HFP is not quite as good as RSAP because the antenna is basically a 1 ton metal box with the latter. But its no worse than your phone is when out of the car. I previously had a 5k0 d HFP only unit in my pre FL octy with no phone menu in the maxidot and it was really good. I only changed because I wanted to try something with a box that converted the pre FL communication protocol to the FL one which meant I could get a premium unit.

I can't see why a retrofitted maxidot wouldn't work with it either. BUT if you are definitely doing that, do it first as you can then get the premium BT unit and they are no more expensive than these HFP ones these days.

The module will need coding to set some options but will probably work without using defaults eg things like phone book name order.

^^^ What he said!

Haha cheers guys, I desperately want maxidot but trying to find a FL petrol cluster is near on impossible. Trying to find one at a price I want to pay just won't happen. I'll have to learn to live without maxidot and get a HFP module!

Yes I am so glad mine had it from new! Good luck.

Slight thread revival but it is my thread so here goes:

I finally sold my columbus as it didn't really integrate as well with my new car as it did with my old car.

I was thinking about buying a module to work with the bolero but then started looking for an Amundsen+ with a mac address.

Would an Amundsen+ with mic work without maxidot?

Just weighing up the £120 for a module, loom and mic with the £350 for an Amundsen+ and mic and whether the extra £230 is worth it for a 5" sat nav?

I would be interested in advice on this as well.

 

I have a 2011 Elegance with a Columbus retrofit. I use an  iPhone 6. I have no Maxidot or MFSW. What unit should I be looking for?

 

I have somebody who can do the VCDS but they need to no what to activate.

 

Thanks

 

Garnett

It really depends how the BT aspect of the Amundsen connects. If it uses HFP, as I would guess, then it probably can be paired from the phone and hence won't need maxidot. You will miss out on some functionality without maxidot of course.

This is somewhat a guess but given I have seen no reference to iPhones not working with the Amundsen and the fact they use HFP then I think it is safe to assume the Amundsen provides a HFP connection.

Edited 27 January, 201511 yr by adamal

Hello again.

 

I think I have established that a Columbus without Maxidot or VCDS needs a 7P6035730K.

 

I have asked the seller about VCDS. They say it may be required but don't know what the settings are. Can anyone help?

 

Thanks

 

Garnett

It really depends how the BT aspect of the Amundsen connects. If it uses HFP, as I would guess, then it probably can be paired from the phone and hence won't need maxidot. You will miss out on some functionality without maxidot of course.

This is somewhat a guess but given I have seen no reference to iPhones not working with the Amundsen and the fact they use HFP then I think it is safe to assume the Amundsen provides a HFP connection.

I think from what I have read, I should be OK with the Amundsen+ with Bluetooth and without maxidot.

I am still weighing up the pro's and con's though. £230 extra to get an integrated sat nav over £20 for a brodit phone mount for my new phone and existing pro clip. I am already running TomTom on my phone which got me to the south of France and back flawlessly last year and would expect it to do the same again this year!

I guess ultimately, is £210 extra worth it for a tidy dash and only I can answer that!

Hello again.

I think I have established that a Columbus without Maxidot or VCDS needs a 7P6035730K.

I have asked the seller about VCDS. They say it may be required but don't know what the settings are. Can anyone help?

Thanks

Garnett

As above, 7p6 035 730 j or 5k0 035 730 d or above will work. Expect to pay £120 upwards for the module, loom and mic.

In my experience there are plenty of helpful members on here that can help with vcds coding etc for beer / beer money!

Edited 28 January, 201511 yr by Jon boy 984

Thanks

Slight thread revival but its my thread so I have bought a 7p6 035 730 k module with loom and mic off fleabay for just over £100.

Am looking forward to fitting and coding but am undecided where to house the module. Can't decide if to fit under the drivers or passenger seat or somewhere else completely different.

Passenger seat is slightly easier than driver's seat and also, when the Velcro stops holding the housing to the carpet, it won't slide under your feet or pedals.

Others have put it behind the stereo (under the dash top box), but I'd go with the under seat option myself.

Me too. More easily accessed there than behind the dash and easier to fit than under the driver seat.

Under the passenger seat it is then. I have ordered some new trim removal tools from ebay as mine have had it and as soon as they arrive, the retrofit begins. Looking forward to having BT again.

Karl, Adam, my new trim removal tools have come and I will be starting the retrofit on Tuesday.

I will be fitting under the passenger seat as suggested.

I have found a guide to fit under the drivers seat so routing the loom should be similar to the opposite side?

Once I get to the dash, will I need to remove the glovebox etc to get to the head unit?

Also, do I route the mic behind the trim on the passenger side or the drivers side?

If you have a link to a passenger side guide or can give step by step instructions, I would be mostly grateful.

Thanks again.

I would personally install it behind the glovebox like I did:

 

 

There's loads of room back there and saves having to run the wires to under a seat etc.

 

Plus you can then have better access to behind the stereo and pull the connectors through to the side as it's a bit tight behind the stereo.

 

Run the wire up the passenger side while you have the glovebox out. Just pull the trim off the side and tape the wire out of the way of the clips.

 

Phil

Edited 29 April, 201511 yr by Phil-E

Phil, thanks for your suggestion. I am interested in this location however I seem to remember others having to modify the module by removing the tabs etc. Was this the case or does it slot in with no modification?

No modification required. I think I just had to undo that screw on the air duct then wedged it behind and stuck some cable ties round it.

 

Phil