Iffy door remote?

[Pavaotti]

The rear door on my Octavia (drivers side) doesn't respond to the key remote opening. Sometimes it opens but usually it doesn't. I cannot open in even when I reach inside and operate the chrome door opening handle.  The rest of the doors operate fine.

 

I am worried about passengers trying to get out in a hurry.

 

Any ideas as to where the problem lies and where I should start trying to track it down.

 

Thanks  Pav

[mikec]

check cabling in the B pilar to the back door (could have a faulty wire to the controll unit) also when it does open check that the child lock isn't enabled or it won't open from the inside even when it unlocks

[huwants2no]

i had a deadlocked rear door. As you said its not very safe and i had my 2 kids in the back mostly so needed sorting.

There are a lot of threads on here about this and some have suggestions like banging the outside of the door at same time as u operate your key fob. some folks get lucky and it pops open. Unfortunately I wasnt so had to reef the door card off whilst door locked to get access to the lock mechanism. Not all but some of the torx screws holding door card on can be removed while door is closed so with a bit of care you can get the card off without any real damage. you might break a few clips but they're dead cheap from the dealer. 

then the fun starts

Anyway maybe search some threads for other options before going down this road. could be your problem lies elsewhere as suggested by Mike.

[kentphil1]

The knack is to slap the door flat hand up by the lock, rather that hit it closed fist if you get my meaning. My vrs did this when I first had it so learnt the knack real quick. .

 

Once the door opens, get the card off, drop the membrane and spray the hell out of the lock and servo motor with wd40 and operate the lock by using a screwdriver shaft in the lock to mimic the striker rather than closing the door, just in case it jams again.

 

If you get the door open but have not got time to fiddle, just get the card off so if the worst happens when it is shut and it deadlocks again, at least you can get to the works from inside.

[huwants2no]

The knack is to slap the door flat hand up by the lock, rather that hit it closed fist if you get my meaning. My vrs did this when I first had it so learnt the knack real quick. .

 

Once the door opens, get the card off, drop the membrane and spray the hell out of the lock and servo motor with wd40 and operate the lock by using a screwdriver shaft in the lock to mimic the striker rather than closing the door, just in case it jams again.

 

If you get the door open but have not got time to fiddle, just get the card off so if the worst happens when it is shut and it deadlocks again, at least you can get to the works from inside.

ive a strange memory of once hearing of cutting a tennis ball in half and wacking it when its placed over the lock to pop it open. maybe it was on McGuyver

[trundlenut]

ive a strange memory of once hearing of cutting a tennis ball in half and wacking it when its placed over the lock to pop it open. maybe it was on McGuyver

I thought that was how you break into a mk2 cavalier?

[kentphil1]

I had a mk2 cavalier, and it was never worth locking as nobody would nick it - they obviously knew better and felt sorry for me

[YellowCar]

ive a strange memory of once hearing of cutting a tennis ball in half and wacking it when its placed over the lock to pop it open. maybe it was on McGuyver

Lol I think that's an urban myth, although I did have a decidedly dodgy mate who reckoned it was true as long as the semi-ball was airtight round the locking barrel, so unfortunately wont work on most of todays door handles. I miss McGuyver, and Street Hawk...dont think this is helping much...sorry

[huwants2no]

I thought that was how you break into a mk2 cavalier?

Knew I'd heard it somewhere. Pity it doesn't work on deadlocked too

[huwants2no]

Lol I think that's an urban myth, although I did have a decidedly dodgy mate who reckoned it was true as long as the semi-ball was airtight round the locking barrel, so unfortunately wont work on most of todays door handles. I miss McGuyver, and Street Hawk...dont think this is helping much...sorry

lol i remember the airtight bit now that u mention it!

but probably not what the OP was looking for. never saw street hawk mind

[Pavaotti]

Thanks guys

 

Has anyone got a few pictures that can guide me to what I am supposed to look for  and what needs dousing in WD40

 

Thanks  AG

[YellowCar]

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/336309-how-to-check-and-protect-your-door-multiplugs/

Hopefully the link works, posted from my phone...

[YellowCar]

You can see the catch to move with the screwdriver just behind the door frame in line with the pin near the springs, look in closely and you'll see it.

[Pavaotti]

Hi Guys

 

Think I have fixed it.  I think it was lack of lubrication.

 

 A few good squirts of WD 40 seems to have eased things up. 

 

Thanks for all the advice particularly on how to get  the door panel off and to access to the mechanism. The electrical connections seem fine. No obvious water ingress and corroded pins. Getting there was awkward. It always is the first time but your advice was great

 

This is certainly one top rate forum

 

 

Thanks  Pav.

[YellowCar]

No problem

[Pavaotti]

Bugger. May have been a bit premature. It still refuses to open the driver side passenger door with the remote fob.  I can now override by reaching in and opening with the interior door handle which is something.

 

I think someone pointed out that the reason that didn't work may have been because the child lock was on.  Oooops..  I  think it was.

 

Anyway I removed the panel, checked the electrical block and it seems ok. No corrosion on the pins.  I checked the wires between the door and the car going through the pillars. Seems Ok.

 

I noted a cluster of wires going to the lock mechanism but I couldn't get the thing to unclip to examine the pins.

 

I am running out of ideas.  As I say the door usually stays locked while all the others open. Sometimes if I jiggle about with the remote the door opens  which would indicate that it's not a broken or severed pin or wire.  Could it be something related.  Suggestions please.

 

I am happy that I now know how to take the door panel off and access the innards of the door. Thanks forum

 

Cheers Pavarotti

[kentphil1]

Child lock will override interior handle (so kids cant open door on the move) but leave outer handle working.  Sounds like you may have a problem in you control unit or the loom. as its a rear door would be more inclined to suspect loom.

 

Looking at the loom does not show a broken wire inside the loom really. To do this you need to get a multimeter and set it to continuity mode, and place the probes on the ends of the loom (lock and b post) and get someone to move the loom about gently. A broken wire will lose and make the tone as it is moved.

 

The loom tends to break inside the corrugated tubing that is in the door shut as it constantly moves when the door opens.

[YellowCar]

Bugger. May have been a bit premature. It still refuses to open the driver side passenger door with the remote fob.  I can now override by reaching in and opening with the interior door handle which is something.

 

I think someone pointed out that the reason that didn't work may have been because the child lock was on.  Oooops..  I  think it was.

 

Anyway I removed the panel, checked the electrical block and it seems ok. No corrosion on the pins.  I checked the wires between the door and the car going through the pillars. Seems Ok.

 

I noted a cluster of wires going to the lock mechanism but I couldn't get the thing to unclip to examine the pins.

 

I am running out of ideas.  As I say the door usually stays locked while all the others open. Sometimes if I jiggle about with the remote the door opens  which would indicate that it's not a broken or severed pin or wire.  Could it be something related.  Suggestions please.

 

I am happy that I now know how to take the door panel off and access the innards of the door. Thanks forum

 

Cheers Pavarotti

hhhmmmm...I think I'd be tempted to try and pinpoint/rule out a wiring issue, a vcds scan might be useful and a multimeter on the connections from the drivers door and up to the plug you can see but cant undo. You'll probably need to press a catch with a flathead. Anyway, like I say I'd be looking to completely rule out wiring before shelling out on a new lock mech. You could always try removing it, be able to give it a closer inspection then, may give you more of a clue. Sorry I'm not being very specific, I'm sure there's others here who have something more helpful to offer!