Fabia VRS Just Isn't Right After Turbo Work...

[rory1080]

Hello,

 

At the end of October my turbo died on my 56 fabia VRS, I had the turbo reconditioned by GAP Turbos and bought a brand new standard intercooler, all the pipework was thoroughly cleaned and the new parts installed my local trusted garage. At the same time I had the cambelt and water pump done and a service. Since I got the car back the reconditioned turbo is considerably louder when accelerating, there is an very loud "tssshhhhhhhhh" noise when boosting. The MPG has also dropped by about 10% and the car doesn't seem to pull quite as well as it used to, it's not as happy to sit in 6th gear and cruise at 60mph as it used to be.

 

Then yesterday when i was driving along, doing about 3000rpm in forth gear the "tssshhhhh" noise disappeared and it was obvious the turbo wasnt doing anything but the car was still driving no problem, i pulled in, stopped and restarted the car and the turbo was back boosting again.

 

Any idea what the problem could be here?

 

Thanks very much in advance!

 

Cheers,

Rory 

[Adam_]

Check all your pipe work is secure.

[silky16v]

Turbo has been reconditioned and then the stop screw and actuator haven't been set

 

have you got access to VCDS or VAG-COM as its known?

 

you need to log the stop screw setting and boost request vs actual and see what the n75 is doing

 

 

this is a common issue on reconditioned turbo's with them not being setup correctly

[Vinayk]

Might be boost leak somewhere pal check all the boost pipes

[Guest BigJase88]

Id guess boost leak

One of the rubber intercooler pipes may have a hole in it after the turbo killed itself

You have experienced limp mode which would point me to a boost leak also

Edited 13 January, 2015 by BigJase88

[tommccabevRS]

Can't imagine the car going into limp mode from a small boost leak.

I'd go with silky and say it hasn't been set up correctly. Ring the company who rebuilt it and ask them if it was correctly set up using machines rather than just guess work.

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[Richard-vrs]

The 90degree pipe from the turbo usually splits on the bend after the turbo goes.

When accelerating if you see black smoke out of the rear it would suggest boost leak.

[Dave89]

Can't imagine the car going into limp mode from a small boost leak.

 

 

Mine did this over a year ago and there was a very small crack in the top boost pipe.  I was giving it full throttle in 3rd to join a motorway.  

 

Couldn't work out what was wrong (nothing visually obvious) until the pipe was removed to check

[tommccabevRS]

Mine did this over a year ago and there was a very small crack in the top boost pipe. I was giving it full throttle in 3rd to join a motorway.

Couldn't work out what was wrong (nothing visually obvious) until the pipe was removed to check

id still go with the turbo hasn't been set up properly when he's got it back

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[faboka vrs]

If its a recon turbo and not a new unit they I'd check the turbo has been setup correctly. Theirs a reason Garrett (I know its a KKK) wont recondition VNT units.

 

Using VCDS Lite go to the engine ECU.

 

Stop Screw

Basic Settings - Group 11 and hit go. Best saving it to a csv so you can look at it afterwards on your pc. The RPM will increase to 1400 rpm and the actuator will cycle from ON and OFF. Look at the actual pressure. The difference between On and Off for a standard turbo should be around 130-150mbar. If its high screw the stop screw in so it reduces the amount the actuator closes the vanes. Opostie way if its less.

 

Actuator

Measure blocks. - Group 11. Save to a CSV file to look on your PC afterwards. Hit start. Drive to a save quiet national speed limit road. In third gear put your foot down at 1500 rpm and keep it down to 4500 rpm. Pull over and hit stop. Load the file into Excel and look to see what the duty cycle value is at 4000 rpm. Stock mapping car should be the high 60's to low 70s percent. If its higher like 90% then it will be overboosting low down and possible go into limp. This is the actuator being too short and not opening the vanes enough to release the pressure. Actuator rod will need lengthening. If its below 60% then it needs shortening.

[rory1080]

Thanks very much for all your replies! Incredibly helpful!

 

The car has been significantly more smokey since the recon turbo was installed. There is a possibility that I have both an incorrectly set up turbo and a boost leak.

 

Just need to track down someone with a VCDS Lite as I don't have access to one.

 

Does anyone know of anywhere that I would be able to go to have my turbo checked and get a remap? A remap and EGR delete have been on the cards for a while now.

 

Cheers

Rory

[silky16v]

Thanks very much for all your replies! Incredibly helpful!

 

The car has been significantly more smokey since the recon turbo was installed. There is a possibility that I have both an incorrectly set up turbo and a boost leak.

 

Just need to track down someone with a VCDS Lite as I don't have access to one.

 

Does anyone know of anywhere that I would be able to go to have my turbo checked and get a remap? A remap and EGR delete have been on the cards for a while now.

 

Cheers

Rory

 

 

i can provide turbo setup and EGR delete, but you are some way away from me, you'd be surprised how many so called specialist companies don't have the knowledge to do this

 

for a remap you are just as well to ask the above user Faboka as he does remote mapping and can point you in the right direction

[rory1080]

Thanks very much for all your help everyone, i've also discovered a large boost leak, the pipe that comes directly from the turbo has split. My local garage quoted me £120 plus VAT for the pipe, anybody got any recomendations on what to replace it with or should i just get the garage to order it in for me?

 

Cheers,

Rory

[vindaloo]

Get the Forge one or similar. Though if your garage have the bits in stock it might be easier to JFDI.

 

http://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/Fluorosilicone_Turbo_Hose_for_SEAT_Ibiza_130_Diesel_and_Skoda_Fabia_VRS--product--274.html

 

J.

[rory1080]

Replacement forge pipe as recommended above arrived from DPM and I fitted it yesterday, old pipe was ruined as there was a big split in it. Turned of the fault code and the eml went off, still no power though and still going into limp mode. EML light came back on after 20 miles. Any other suggestions to try until I have time to take a trip down and visit Silky?

Turbo was reconditioned three months ago so I doubt it would be sticking vanes due to carbon deposits, any thoughts?

Thanks in advance boys

[rory1080]

Oh and