Mk TDi Misting Up & Taking Ages To Warm Up!

[marc54rg]

I know it's a common problem but it's really starting to p1ss me off now! My mums 307 diesel (03) plate, cleared the screen in about a minute. My 04 tdi I have to warm it up before I leave for work, and even then the rear window doesn't clear as it's that wet.

No obvious damp in the car, but has anyone found why the mist up so easily? Love the car but this really grinds on me for 8 months of the year!

I've tried some dehumidifying boxes etc.

Hope someone can help

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[Guest]

I make sure that when I'm on my way home I turn the temp down to 18 if you have climate or nearly all the way to cold if not. Then I turn the vents off to the screen floor and face then turn the fan off., when parked and that seams to work for me. Still get a bit in the rear but we have an estate and the dog is always in the boot plus I do have a very small ingress of water in the boot but can't find out where it's coming in at the moment. Hope that helps?

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[mbames]

If it is that bad, I would suggest you just have a water leak in the car - have you checked the rear footwells for dampness.

 

Have you tried mopping up the dampness?  if not, then a lot of the moisture will remain in the car, and the problem will never really go away.

[pikpilot]

Could be a stuck recirculation flap in the climate control unit. This would increase the humidity as you drive.

 

Follow this thread to test for a stuck flap/failed flap motor:

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/209451-climatronic-self-diagnose-mode/

 

If you get a failure code, it is in hexadecimal and you need to convert it to decimal with an added leading zero so you can look up the details on the ross tech site as shown in the post. Faulty recirc flap/motor is shown on the display as 4FA.

 

Climate control also controls the humidity when in AUTO mode. Press auto and then set the desired temperature (hotter is better in clearing the windows). This is a fast way of clearing the windows but only works above about 5 deg C when there is no chance of ice forming in the system. 

 

Finally, check under the carpets and in the boot for water. If so search on here for the many threads about water ingress.

[marc54rg]

I'll try the above, thanks for the informative replies. I got told to drive with air con on all the time, I also put a new pollen filter in a year ago and that seemed to solve the problem for a week, but it may have been a placebo or the weather!

My journey to work is about 5/6 miles at anywhere from 45-65mph and my temp guard normally struggles to even move is this normal on the diesels? Mine is the elegance so does have climate control and a sunroof. Thanks again

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[Guest]

I have a grille cover on mine and that warms it up quicker. There was a thread on here with someone selling them. Their great.

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[Liverpool-Lad]

Is it stuck on recirc perhaps?

[marc54rg]

Just been under the boot floor, no damp or moisture although one small bung was missing at the front of the spare wheel well, approx size of 5p, i've put a bung in it so will see if that makes any difference. I did the code test and mine came up with 4F7 00. I've just had the pollen filter out and shook it out (not much rubbish in there anyway) and checked for damp in there, none either. What is the flap under the pollen filter, how do I open / close it? (it was open when I removed pollen filtrer) 

Also checked the carpets for damp, nothing at all. I might get a friend to put a smoke machine in it (automotive type) and see if that can show anything. 

The drivers door seal has a slight nick in it, approx an inch long, clutching at straws no so may buy a good, used one to eliminate it.

Shame really cause it's never asked for anything this car but these things drive you mad. I'll google these grille covers, I imagine they look awful but if they do the job then so be it!

[Guest]

This is the cover on my car.

This is the web page.

www.e-heko.com/en/Marka_Model/SKODA_OCTAVIA/062000r.html

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[pikpilot]

I did the code test and mine came up with 4F7 00. 

4F7 is the hexadecimal code corresponding to 1271. You can covert using the programmer's calculator in Win 8, or on-line.

Putting a zero in front and looking at the Ross-Tech Wiki, this is a stuck or failed temperature control flap or motor.

 

Details here: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/01271

[sebring]

I have a couple of grill covers for sale if you are interested!

[Guest]

I got mine from sebring well worth it.

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[AnotherGareth]

My journey to work is about 5/6 miles at anywhere from 45-65mph and my temp guard normally struggles to even move is this normal on the diesels?

 

Definitely not enough time to bring the coolant up to normal operating temperature, let alone the engine and gearbox oils. I expect fuel consumption isn't all that good either.

 

However it's worth taking a longer drive sometime to see if the thermostat is operating correctly; if it is staying open when it should be closed the gauge can take an awful long time to get to 'normal' and, while it is meant to be warming up, you might sometimes see the needle dip a little!

[marc54rg]

Fuel consumption is still pretty good to be fair, 45-52, I'm a pretty steady driver though, maybe I should drop it down a cog to rev it more, creating more heat...

How much for the grill covers? Are they designed to allow them to heat quicker?

As to the heater problem, what/where is the temp control flap/motor? I'll have a look on that Ross Tec when I get on a PC. Thank you all again

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[sebring]

the grill cover stops any cold air coming in from the top grill, therefore letting the rad heat up quicker - the bottom grill still lets in plenty of air for the car though.

[AnotherGareth]

the grill cover stops any cold air coming in from the top grill, therefore letting the rad heat up quicker

 

I thought the idea of the thermostat was to stop coolant circulating through the radiator until the engine has warmed up sufficiently.

 

I'm not sure how much a grill cover reduces air flow (cooling) to the outside of the engine, and whether this is likely to make a significant difference unless the thermostat is always partially open, or opening earlier than it should.

 

The engine should warm up quicker if you don't try to heat up the cabin ... I remember doing the reverse in bygone days in cars that had marginal cooling - turning up the interior heating to maximum to prevent the engine overheating while queueing on hot summer days.

[sebring]

well, the proof is in the pudding - I have one fitted as does simsj and I have found that my engine warms up a lot quicker then without it!

[Guest]

Mine too, it warms up much quicker. Great in the cold weather.

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