pikpilot

+1 for intermittent number plate bulb. Check the contacts.

I am suprised there is no mention if the VAG DPF App for your phone any more. You can follow what is happening in the DPF, such as ash content, when last regenerated and much more. There ia also a free Lite version to allow you to see the featues.

Anti skid warning comes on with no signal from a wheel sensor. One of the sensors (which I thought was rear-right) is used for the speedo. So first action is to check the ABS wheel sensors and rings.

I believe the badge is a stick on, no holes or fixings behind.

Warning light after 5 minutes suggest the coolant was low when last driven or more likely it has been leaking while standing. As time is critical, I suggest you ask a garage to presure test your system. Take their advice on topping up as distance to the garage is important. I know from my experience that a failed water pump can go from no obvious leak to loosing a large volume of coolant in less than 5 miles on a summers day.

This video for a Polo will show you what's involved for the next step. I recomend you use a VAG garage.

As Alisdair said. The highest speed is a usually a straight through connection. So if it works on highest speed but not others, then it is a failed resistor. However some fans used with air-con have an electronic speed controller that is part of the blower.

Did you look at this: https://blowerfan.co.uk/skoda-octavia-mk2-air-con-heater-blower-fan-motor-2004-2012/?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22487189655&gbraid=0AAAAAqdxUUXUevfnPiSKw0LcVJ_eaIjTX&gclid=Cj0KCQjw9ZLSBhCcARIsAEhGKgMEHnaqmgbHXQfI52uAe_gevCYeFIPTdPAY9SgczWQCN77Bch-fKdwaAn91EALw_wcB

It is not unkown for a large crimped cable to become high resistance after getting wet and corrosion inside the crimped connector. Mostly affects the cable to the alternator. The high temp is due the high resistance still able to carry some current but not enough.

I have now had two batteries that died like yours - one went open circuit. See if you can borrow a known good battery or, not as good, use jump leads from another car. If it still wont start then look to the starter motor. If it does start then double check the alternator wiring as post above.

You didn't say the car's year. Earliest may have had hydraulic power steering but the majority have electric power steering. Check the fault code as it may be just be a sensor issue. Common reason for the steering wheel symbol is that it has lost the information on the position of the end limits due to disconnection of the battery. A bad cable will do the same. Lock to lock movement is the reset but if this doesn't work, read the fault code.

Does bend lights mean cornering lights?

I would recommend buying a new alarm unit as others have found that the secondhand units have come from old crushed cars sources or other sources and only last a short time. Once you start to have alarms at random, you will not be popular with your neighbours. The internal battery is NiMH and cannot be replaced by a LiPo or Li-ion battery. See also the sticky posts above these threads.

Yes your probably right. Handbook writers don't think. They forget that people are more interested in the volume for an oil change rather than the oil volume in the sump.

Sorry the formating didn't carry over on posting. The answer is 4.3 Litres.

Handbook says: Diesel engines Specification Content 1.6 l/77 kW TDI CR - EU5 VW 507 00 4,3

The Mk 1 Octavia had a problem with corrosion at the battery end of the alternator cable. It is a crimp connection and subject to black corrosion, probably by water ingress. Your problem suggests the Mk2 may suffer the same way with time.

As an aside, batteries can die very quickly. In my case the car had been driven the previous day but next morning showed no sign of starting. I called the AA (I have Have Start in case my wife needed it) and he started the car after connecting another battery in parrallel. Following an engine start and a 15 minute engine run, he disconnected the jump start battery and the engine immediately stopped. The car battery read 0 Volts and presumed to be open circuit internally. Unfortunately the four year guarranty (well known German make) ran out two weeks earlier.

Just a point for future. In the instructions you quoted it says disconnect both terminals from the battery. The same instruction is given with modern battery chargers that can recover over discharged batteries and the reason is that they go over 16V during charging. This can damage some of the electronics.

I have a Bolero radio but my fix for anything related to the radio is to remove the supply for a few seconds. Always works. The radio has two supplies - one permanent and one through the ignition. So with the ignition switched off remove the fuse for the permanent supply for 30 seconds and then put back in. In my car car the fuse in question is in the fusebox near the battery but look in your handbook to find your location. It may be shown as radio if your lucky.

The compressor is running all the time. The pistons travel are dependant on a signal from the controller. Imagine a tilted swash plate that can control the amount of displacement of the compressor pistons. With the plate vertical there is no pumping action but as the plate is tilted the pistons are progressively engaged more. This a mechanical system described but the same effect can be had in electrical systems. Either way, there is no engagement clutch like the compressors of decades ago. Your scraping noise may be a worn front bearing on the compressor.

Mine was another one with corrosion on one of the bulb contacts on the rear number plate light.

Typically the handbrake should start to hold at 4-5 clicks of the ratchet. As said above you can also adjust at the handbrake compensator under the rear of the central console but on some trim levels it is a long winded job to gain access. This action will not do anything. It is the handbrake cable length that needs changing at the caliper end or under the rear of the central console.

Set the handbrake cable correctly (from memory is only 1mm gap at the caliper end) then see if you still have a problem.

Does the handbrake now have a longer travel? If so you may have not set the correct cable clearance at the calipers and this can show up as a longer initial footbrake travel. However this will not account for the slow downward movement. I read somewhere that if air has got into the ABS pump you will need to use a procedure (VCDS or similar) which runs the pump to expell the air.