pikpilot

Glad you found it.

First check that the microswitch in the door is giving a signal to the system by checking that the door open icon is showing on the display when you open the door. Is the passenger door and rear doors the same?

If it has a dc motor, it is probable that the brushes have worn down, especially as it 25years old.

It is usually more than just an LED such as door open indicator. Have a look for a broken wire in the drivers door to door frame rubber trunking.

I have the exact same system. I have no problem with an SD card but I did have to format it first so try reformatting your card if you have noy already tried that. As an aside, I had an SD card that had been used in a security system and when I tried to format it again for other uses it kept on reporting "damaged storage" when used for audio. The SD card plus 6 CDs gives a large collection of music. In addition there is a aux-in socket in the central storage box which allows you to input more sounds from an external device. There is no blutooth connection for a phone. An expensive option was another box under the drivers seat for phone connection. Personnally I prefer not to be on the phone whilst driving.

Just seen the wiring diagram and noticed that the horns are solidly grounded and have a switched supply. They probably have seperate grounds so that at least one horn will still work if a ground connection is corroded. You can still just wire the new one across the original, if you have one with the right note. You could also do as you have done before and just replace the the single horn with a twin pair using the single horn wiring. The wiring from the relay is only 1mm squared and that is for two horns so Skoda are happy with the volt drop in the cable.

Wire is normally sized by the current rating to avoid overheating of the wire. Here that is not a problem as the horn is only on for a few seconds occasionally. So the wire has to be sized by its volt drop over the total circuit length. Just a similar cable to the one on the existing horn should be a good choice. The rest of the fixed wiring and the relay will see twice the current but should not be a problem. For reference on some cars the relay is permanently powered and operated by grounding the other relay coil pin through the horn push button. Some do this through electronics from the horn push button. My conclusion is just put the second horn in parallel with the original horn using a similar size wire. The fixed wiring is probably already sized for two horns as used on other varients such as in my Elegance model.

It is necessary to drill out the rivets to get to almost everything in the door such as replacing the window winder or door lock - both have been done on mine. The window winder is mounted on that metal panel so you also have to be aware of how to connect and disconnect the glass. It is shown in the Haynes manual. The rivets are a large and non standard size but are easily available from motor factors who stock VAG parts. You may need a larger rivet gun than a diy tool. It may be better to pay a garage for 1 hour of labour. I used an auto electrician as they do this all the time on VAG cars but local garages may not have any experience.

Broken wires in the body to door trunking are common on higher mileage cars.temperature Also a failed lock on the drivers door. The drivers door lock replacement is expensive in labour as the inside metal door panel has to be drilled out to remove the window mechanism in order to replace the lock. I know because my window winder failed and I had the intermittent lock replaced at the same time (temperature sensitive failing microswitch in the lock). I suggest you talk to a good auto electrician for advice. Mine says he regularly replaces locks, particularly on Audi A3s. He frequently fixes broken wires to the driver's door. Same with mirror controls but another cause for intermittent mirrors and window winders is the switch assemblies. Relatively cheap to replace as a diy job.

When my car did this it was due to water condensation in the car and was cleared by drying out the interior. Yours looks more like the condensation may have been there for some time and has corroded a connection, possibly the connections to the cluster.

On the facelift cars, the foglight is actually two different lamps - a foglight and the daylight driving lights in the same enclosure. It seems that drivers of many older makes of cars, not just VAG, have the foglights rewired to come on with the ignition to make them look modern. This is maybe what has happened to your car. The law says that the driving lights must be OFF when the headlights are on and so it may be a MOT failure if your fog/sudeo driving lights are on.

As cars age there is a shift in cost from mainly depreciation to mainly replacement parts and associated labour costs. Luckily the latter is the lower unless you need a major lump like an engine or auto gearbox. So my philosophy in a case like yours is to put in two reconditioned injectors if you have some evidence that that is the most likely cause of the problem. However, on CR engines you may find you will need to replace the other two injectors after a few thousand miles. Probably cheaper than buying a a higher value car that depreciates or has an unknown set of problems waiting to happen.

Increased revs are also a sign that it is recharging the battery from a low level. Normal idle revs return when the battery reaches the correct voltage. What you experienced is what you see If the battery is getting a bit tired and the car is only used for short runs. That in turn is not good for the battery. Check the voltage 1) before starting, 2) just after starting when running at fast idle and 3) after a long run to confirm battery health. Your can confirm if yours has had the dreaded emmisions upgrade by means of a small sticker near the spare wheel or by looking to see if it has an "air straightener" in the inlet air path. If so, you will experience more regens as noted above.

+1 for intermittent number plate bulb. Check the contacts.

I am suprised there is no mention if the VAG DPF App for your phone any more. You can follow what is happening in the DPF, such as ash content, when last regenerated and much more. There ia also a free Lite version to allow you to see the featues.

Anti skid warning comes on with no signal from a wheel sensor. One of the sensors (which I thought was rear-right) is used for the speedo. So first action is to check the ABS wheel sensors and rings.

I believe the badge is a stick on, no holes or fixings behind.

Warning light after 5 minutes suggest the coolant was low when last driven or more likely it has been leaking while standing. As time is critical, I suggest you ask a garage to presure test your system. Take their advice on topping up as distance to the garage is important. I know from my experience that a failed water pump can go from no obvious leak to loosing a large volume of coolant in less than 5 miles on a summers day.

This video for a Polo will show you what's involved for the next step. I recomend you use a VAG garage.

As Alisdair said. The highest speed is a usually a straight through connection. So if it works on highest speed but not others, then it is a failed resistor. However some fans used with air-con have an electronic speed controller that is part of the blower.

Did you look at this: https://blowerfan.co.uk/skoda-octavia-mk2-air-con-heater-blower-fan-motor-2004-2012/?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22487189655&gbraid=0AAAAAqdxUUXUevfnPiSKw0LcVJ_eaIjTX&gclid=Cj0KCQjw9ZLSBhCcARIsAEhGKgMEHnaqmgbHXQfI52uAe_gevCYeFIPTdPAY9SgczWQCN77Bch-fKdwaAn91EALw_wcB

It is not unkown for a large crimped cable to become high resistance after getting wet and corrosion inside the crimped connector. Mostly affects the cable to the alternator. The high temp is due the high resistance still able to carry some current but not enough.

I have now had two batteries that died like yours - one went open circuit. See if you can borrow a known good battery or, not as good, use jump leads from another car. If it still wont start then look to the starter motor. If it does start then double check the alternator wiring as post above.

You didn't say the car's year. Earliest may have had hydraulic power steering but the majority have electric power steering. Check the fault code as it may be just be a sensor issue. Common reason for the steering wheel symbol is that it has lost the information on the position of the end limits due to disconnection of the battery. A bad cable will do the same. Lock to lock movement is the reset but if this doesn't work, read the fault code.

Does bend lights mean cornering lights?