pikpilot

I have now had all my injectors replaced. By an independent VAG specialist they were £332 each plus the cost of a stretch bolt, injector seal kit and a seal ring. By a Skoda garage the injectors alone were around £660 each. Add VAT to both prices, and of course labour unless you can do the work yourself including the recoding.

That is what happened on the Mk 1 octavia where the Elegance estate had a sunroof as standard. I don't know about the sunroof on the Mk 2 as it was an option, but I suspect it is very similar. On the Mk1 the drains were a pair of rubber tubes that ran down to the door openings- one for each front door. I found that debris (seeds, flowers etc) would run down the tubes to the end and collect there (the tube was flattenned a bit at the end). Poking with a meat skewer would clear the debris and I always followed with a good flush of water put into the tubes in the sunroof tray.

Check the main body earth connection behind the left hand side trim in the boot. The connections will corrode if water collects there. Main cause is usually not using a strong enough windscreen washer solution in the winter. The water freezes in the pipe and the ice pushes the pipe off the connector. When you try to wash the rear screen. the water comes out of the pipe and collects near the earth connections.

There should be a sticker in the spare wheel well that looks like a lot of three letter codes. The top part of that has a line called engine and gear box. The engine code is a 3 or 4 letter code such as the BMM sugested by Mike.

Have you updated the maps recently with non Skoda versions? See here:

I bought PHILIPS RacingVision GT200. They claim up to 200% more brightness. If the "more" is correct then that means 300% in total but I suspect that is a marketing hype. Note that brigher bulbs don't last as long. Don't buy LED bulbs as it has been announced in the UK that coming soon it will an MOT failure to use LEDs in lights not designed for them. I supect that your county will follow. This makes sense as I can easily tell which cars have retrofitted LEDs by the amount of scattered light sent towards me as a halo of light and the way they light up reflective signs that are out of the envelope of normal lights.. It is not common for dashboard light to go dim. They are usually normal or not working. I suspect yours is a dash panel fault such as dry solder joint.

Unlikely to be burnt as the dip switch gives only a small signal to the power electronics which actually switches on the lights. The dipped lights are poor compared with full beam on my CR 1.6 TDi. I too fitted better bulbs, which helps. Check the earthing as said above if the light colour is not white.

It sounds like that when the servo motor has reached the end stop and is hunting. As above, a reset will teach the servo where the end stop positions are. If left, the nylon geats can eventually strip.

In a Mk2 Octavia the the alarm is accessed by removing the liner to the wheel arch on the driver's side. However, as yours is a 2013 model it could be a changeover model with some differences. If you are sure it is not on a body panel at the rear of the wheel arch (after removing the liner) then ask for the alarm location of the later model in the Mk3 forum. If it has been removed you will find the cable and the fixing stud. There are also location photos in the alarm "sticky" thread at the top of this forum page.

Your conclusion about damp weather is probably correct from having had the same issues myself. During these damp days, always have the air condioning ON if you have climatronics. This will reduce the humidy level in the car and it will be automatically controlled. Also helps if you select a higher than normal cabin temperature.

Funny things like this have been known to happen with water ingress/damp conditions. Make sure you also use the air conditioner in conjunction with the heater on wet days. If you have climatronics then Auto will do the same thing. Another possibility is a faulty door unlock/lock switch - the one in the centre panel in front of the gear lever. It works the same way as your key even to the extent of being able to use it to roll all the windows up and down by holding the switch in lock for up and unlock for down.

What is the lowest battery voltage while attemping to start?

Don't risk it by driving, Could be a real fault such a blocked filter on the oil pick up in the sump. What engine code? - typically four letters and shown on the label in the spare wheel area. What mileage? Have you done an ecu fault code check again?

There are a number of conditions that must be met before regeneration can start. I can't remember them all off hand but apart the revs and load mentioned before, it includes oil temperature, water temperature, DPF temperatute and more than a certain amount of fuel in the tank. The basic trigger is high soot content. You can't burn soot to create ash if there is not enought soot there. Then you have to wait for for the other conditions to be met. There was a good video by VAG a few years ago explaining the process. Anyone got a link?

Not immediatly helpful but read others experiece with this problem here A scan with VCDS would also help.

This can also be an early sign that the alarm system has reached end of life and must be replaced. Skoda recomend changing the alarm around 6-7 years. If you leave it as is, the next stage is waking your neighbours during the night. End of life can be caused by the internal battery failing or the battery oozing out corrosive liquid which damages the printed circuit board. See the thread on the alarm in ths sticky section of this forum.

That rules out one possibilty. Did you check the elephants trunk for broken wires? The controller in the driver's door sends signals to the other doors.

Take a look for broken wires in the rubber snake that goes from the drivers door to the body. Also check that you have a "drivers door open" icon on the dash when that door is open.

Are you sure it is just fuel on the plug. The photos suggest oil as well.

With oil ash so low the DPF must have been cleaned or replaced before you got the car. My oil ash is around 33grams after 75,000 miles. Mostly fast roads/motorways with some city driving for the first 53,000 miles and mostly short trips with occasional 200mile fast roads. Normally a regen only occurs on longer journeys and takes about 20-30 minutes but in your case it would appear your soot content was very high so it took much longer. I will see if I can reload the pictures as pdfs.

That is correct. It shows how full the DPF is. What was your final oil ash weight in grams? Looks like you have done it and now have a good DPF. Well done The way this forum handles pictures means sometimes the pictures appear as pictures and sometimes as a long winded text link. To see the later, click on the text then on the new black page that appears, click on the little icon in the centre. This will then show the picture as a picture. What was your final oil ash weight in grams?

Just to show how confusing these results are, below is a picture produced later than the ones above and shows a % full line of only 16%. As I said before, it is only the ash content which is a true indicator of the state of the DPF.

Latest update on all owners manuals, past and present models. https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

Here are some copies from the same app and the same CAYC engine in my car. The first one is after my last regeneration. Note it says 82% full, oil ash residue 30 grams (44%). The second picture (below) shows the previous test when the regen was interupted as I had arrived home. Note the red icon you mentioned which in my case indicated only partial regen. The field regen box shows a 10, which I guess means the same thing. The third picture below shows a similar oil ash content to the first picture but 63% full I too have a lot of short drives these days followed by an occasional long drive of around 200 miles+. My conclusion is that oil ash residue that blocks the DPF and is the only thing you need to worry about. The soot mass is really an indication that another regen is going to me needed soon. I tend to use the % bar only as a general guide. The three photos are in reverse sequence over a 2 year period. If the DPF warning light (mine never has) comes on, the car manual says "To clean the diesel particle filter, the vehicle should be driven at an even speed of at least 60 km/h » at engine speeds of 1 800 - 2 500 rpm for at least 15 minutes or until the warning light goes out with the 4th or 5th gear engaged (automatic gearbox: position S) when the traffic situation permits it." When you tried a regen you may have had the revs too high. It needs high torque which is why it says less than 2500 rpm in 4th or 5th gear. "Field regen is a process that can only be done by a garage as it can be a fire risk. Basicaly it means burning the soot away by changing the fuel ratio to increase the exhaust gas temperature. Your post has reminded me that I need to check my DPF again as I have recently had two injectors replaced and I want to know if it has had any effect on the DPF.

Rust is most unlikely on the OP's Estate wiper motor as washer fluid does not go through the wiper motor. The problem with my estate wiper motor was the commutator brushes sticking in their holders. Slightly sanding down the sides of the brushes fixed it.