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Good Procedure for Silver?

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Car's disgustingly dirty with all the winter crap so I'm taking Friday off to clean it. Yes, it's that bad...

 

My usual procedure is this:

 

spray wheels with billberry cleaner, leave to sit for 15 mins

Rinse whole car with karcher

Snow Foam whole car

Rinse again

Wash top half (two bucket)

Rinse

Wash bottom half

dry

Wash wheels

Polish with AG SRP

Wax / Seal

 

 

My last car was blue, so have got dodo juice blue velvet.  I also have almost a full bottle of Jetseal 109.  If I swap out the waxing for the sealant, will I still get a nice shine with good protection?

 

Thanks!

Looks good

I would still use the AGSRP as its a cleaner and sealant in one...but the sealant is very poor at durability on its own

I would top it with Jet seal 109 (Sealant)

Sealants are good at reflectivity on silver and white paintwork

  • Author

Looks good

I would still use the AGSRP as its a cleaner and sealant in one...but the sealant is very poor at durability on its own

I would top it with Jet seal 109 (Sealant)

Sealants are good at reflectivity on silver and white paintwork

 

 

Thanks. Yeah that's the plan, it was just because the dodo juice I have is designed for blue cars and has blue pigment, so would look rather weird on a silver car.  I'll do a couple of coats of SRP and then seal it all in with 109.  I gather 109 is also very good on wheels.  It's quite sad that I'm actualyl excited to stand outside, wet in the cold air cleaning my car...

I'm no expert but thought that snow foam would work better on a dry car...so no rinsing before foaming. That's what I do...perhaps Chris has an opinion?

  • Author

I'm no expert but thought that snow foam would work better on a dry car...so no rinsing before foaming. That's what I do...perhaps Chris has an opinion?

Curious to know the answer to that.  I always thought it best to get as much grit and dirt off, but then I suppose that's probably what snow foam is for...

Best to remove as much grime as possible to allow the snow foam into contact with the more difficult to remove dirt.

Snow foam works by the bubbles bursting against the dirt then dragging the dirt off and loosening the remaining contamination. A dry car will aid it to cling longer but that in itself is going to do very little. A thick foam is also not necessary.

Hth guys

  • Author

Cool thanks!

ON the wash mitt, the abrasive side will marr your paint. I'd just go for a full lambswool. Personally, I use an Adams wash pad from Motorgeek. The dooka wash pad is also highly regarded.

I'm no expert but thought that snow foam would work better on a dry car...so no rinsing before foaming. That's what I do...perhaps Chris has an opinion?

This is a question that is often asked

Neil has the best answer above

Snow Foam does work best on a wet pre rinsed car...Tried it both ways and always come back to the pre rinse every time

Dooka...The best IMO

Linky

  • Author

Dooka...The best IMO

Linky

 

They sure look nice.  Out of my budget though as I'm really only going to for the "better than a sunday wash" look :D  

Silver is a tough one.  It's my least favourite colour for getting anything to shine, which is a pain given I have a silver car :D

 

The best I have ever been able to achieve is to simply make it look as clean and refined as possible.  And that is with literally what I would call my full detail process too.

 

Paint always feels good after - REAL good, but the appearance is never as good as a nice black, or a dark blue. :D

On the wash mitt, the abrasive side will marr your paint. I'd just go for a full lambswool.

 

Personally, I use an Adams wash pad from Motorgeek.

 

The dooka wash pad is also highly regarded.

 

Spot on - Dooka won't let you down but like you Neil i've swapped to the Adam's wash pad to test out.

 

They were being sold off at £9.99 delivered for a while around Xmas - absolute bargain  :thumbup:

I tried Jetseal 109 many a time but just couldn't get any decent durability out of it, regardless of the prep I put in at the start. I'm sure others have had better results with it though - it is a great product and excellent VFM like most from the Chemical Guys range.

The good thing about sealers, is that they can be topped with wax...not the other way round

So if you find the durability is short, top it with DJ wax or add another coat of Sealer..or both

  • Author

The good thing about sealers, is that they can be topped with wax...not the other way round

So if you find the durability is short, top it with DJ wax or add another coat of Sealer..or both

Ah that's where i've gone wrong in the past.  I always thought that because it's sealant by name, it would go on last to seal it all in.  

 

Which wax for <£25 would you recommend for silver? FK1000P?

 

So every 6 months or so, the full process (once washed/clayed obviously) would be:

 

SRP

109

FK1000P?

Edited by planehazza

FK1000p is a high temp Sealant, so no need for 109 & then FK.

As for which wax, it's a tricky one as 100's available, ArtDeKotsos is nice on light coloured cars as is Black Magic Detail Genesis. They both do smaller pots

If youre going to use FK1000p (You didnt mention that you have some. Sorry) then no need for the Jetseal, because its a Sealant too

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Sorry, no I don't already have FK1000p, just JS109.  It was just recommended above :)

 

So do you thing I should stick with 109 seeing as I already have it, and then get a suitable wax to go on top?

Its an option..Yes

If you already have it, then ..Why not?

Dont apply the wax on straight away..

Put a couple of coats of each on ..an hour apart

Its fairly cold so the cure time will be longer

  • Author

Cool. I'll give it a go, and if I don't like it I'll try that abyss stuff instead.

I've not used blue velvet but I love purple haze, so as Chris recommend why not top up with that wax I'm sure it will add some lustre too.

And as northern monkey said artdekotsos is just lovely to work with and durability is cracking. The results are also second to none. Well worth a sample pot if you fancy trying it.

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