Hi all iv have a problem with me VRS. Drive 10 mins up the road slash leave ticking over and asr light appears. Iv done the usual and checked the wiring in the nearside corner and found a broken wire about 5 inches up the loom. Repaired that and the light is still occuring. Any ideas????? Thanks

Is that for the anti-slip / anti-skid control on the car?

 

Had a similar issue on mine for the electronic stability control, turned out to be a non compatible wheel hub.

The speed sensor ring on it wasn't compatable with the wheel speed sensor.

 

Wheel bearing happened to be faulty at the time, changed it and the problem was gone.

Yeah it is. Iv got no fault codes for any wheels speeds. I work in a garage and this one has stumped me and whats worse is its my own car haha. 

The fault codes i have are 

Engine Management: 17911 Load signal from alternator term DF implausibe signal P1503 intermittent

Anti-Lock Brakes: 18265 Load Signal error message from ecu p1857 intermittent. 

 

I read on here about the signal wire breaking near the gearbox and found that today. though i had solved it but drove aroud for about 10 mins it came back on. switch the car off and on and its not there till about 10 mins again

Might be broken both sides of the connector pair. Someone not long back found a full house, both wires bust on both sides!

Crickey, bit of a strange one!

 

Only guesses left would be the connector at the alternator for the signal wire, or the alternator / voltage regulator its self :s

...got a spare one you can try per chance lol?

There not broken either side of the connector. Which i was hoping for. The only thing i can think of doing is checking the continuity of both wires from the alternator multiplug up to the ecu or to either side of the connecting plug near the gearbox

Yep, continuity all the way from alt plug to ECU and cluster, I guess*. Actually, should only be the DFM one to ECU that's involved; if the 'battery light wire' had a problem you'd see no battery light in the clocks when you turn the ignition on.

 

* Turns out that was a bad guess. DFM does go alt plug to ECU, but the blue wire actually goes to the 'onboard supply control unit' which lives just above the accelerator pedal, not the cluster. The onboard supply control unit 'talks CAN' to the cluster and tells it when to put the battery light on.

 

Edited 14 September, 20178 yr by Wino
Correction

Is the dfm wire the blue 1? Of the two.cause i repaired a really thin brown and red wire which i thought would of solved the issue lol

No, blue one is the one that goes to the onboard supply control unit, and is the exciter for the alternator, to 'boot it up'. Edit: and when broken, causes the battery light not to illuminate, when ignition is switched on.

DFM is brown from the alternator plug, then something bi-coloured I think, after the connection at the gearbox bracket, on its way to the engine  ECU.

Edited 14 September, 20178 yr by Wino
Correction about origin of blue wire.

Oh right. I must have a break elsewhere on that brown wire. Some more investigation needed. Cause everywhere i read about this fault is all leading to this wire. So i think battery tray out and a good observation is needed

Best of luck with it.

 

Edit: according to a wiring diagram for a 2004 ASZ engine car, brown/red from alt (as you've found), turning into lilac/green at the connection on the gearbox. Finishes at pin 38 of the ECU.

Cheers for that. And mine does turn to greean at the gearbox. So im on the right wavelength

Iv found the fault. Did all checks from alternator to ecu and could only put it down to the connector halfway along. So snipped the wires either side and soldered together. All cured

Where by is the wires?? Iv got this problem and I can't work it out haha

1 hour ago, Aaaaronthomas said:

Where by is the wires?? Iv got this problem and I can't work it out haha

 

Why are you laughing, it's not funny, this thread has been dead for two and a half years, start a new one and let this one rest in peace,

 

Do a search for 'load sensor' and start reading.

This is a Polo, but it's much the same:

 

 

2 hours ago, Wino said:

This is a Polo, but it's much the same:

 

 

 You know where you said new lengths of wire?? What do you mean just connect the wires together or do I need a new clip? 

If the broken bits are long enough to just join together, do that. If they aren't, splice in some new bits to reach. The connectors aren't necessary.

4 minutes ago, Wino said:

If the broken bits are long enough to just join together, do that. If they aren't, splice in some new bits to reach. The connectors aren't necessary.

Alright mate nice one! 

No problem.