Mmm, big pipes and spining bits...

don't envy anyone putting manifolds on these motors, i remember doing mine it was a reet PITA

Looking good mate

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don't envy anyone putting manifolds on these motors, i remember doing mine it was a reet PITA

I cannot imagine how much swearing there would be had I being trying to do this with the engine in situ.  Bad enough with unhindered access so should count my blessings I think

Turbo and oil, water lines all in place except for the oil return; don't have one and these seem very expensive new.... Anyone got anything lying around....

So gearbox bolted in place

Now need to sort inlet manifold, fuelling, deletion of evap bits etc, cooling and then it can go back in the car in order to sort intercooler and intake.

Getting there bolt by bolt.

Quick question on that breather pipe. I take it that isn't the upside down y shaped bit that comes of the n/s end of the crank case as you look at it from the front. In which case where is that? As i reckon mine will have over 100k worth of crud in it.

the abd manifold make a big difference?

Quick question on that breather pipe. I take it that isn't the upside down y shaped bit that comes of the n/s end of the crank case as you look at it from the front. In which case where is that? As i reckon mine will have over 100k worth of crud in it.

 

If you go rooting around for your oil filter, find the housing (including the oil cooler which has black hoses running to and from the cooling system) and on the top of this assembly sits the crank case breather to which then tees into two (or goes to a catch can if that's what you've gone for and the turbo TIP via the "hockey puck" black round thingybob.  If you've not got a catch can, it recirculates to the underside of the inlet manifold I think from memory.  So with everything in place, its not easy to get to and if you can to remove it, make sure you clean up the area well first and crude and dirt build up around this area and you don't then want this falling inside the oily bits when you pull the breather hose out.  Probably easiest to do this with the inlet manifold unbolted and pushed out of the way a little.

the abd manifold make a big difference?

 

No idea to be honest as the whole lot went on together.  Thinking about it, I purchased it because it was big, shiny and you can rest your mug of drink on top while working on the engine  :p

Tuesday saw me remove the standard down pipe and cat configuration, angle grinder under car = sparky bits at close quarters. Then time spent cleaning engine bay before engine goes back in this weekend. So underside of bonnet and bulkhead have been cleaned for the first time in their life I think.

I also discovered that the car had decided to become a composting facility and plant propagation centre. All cleaned out now though and new cabin filter installed.

Today's activity has seen the engine back where it should be, or thereabouts. Firstly though I still needed to attend to sourcing an oil return line from the turbo. So had to bite the bullet and purchase new. Local Seat garage in Portsmouth where helpful and relieved me of £120; I thought it was actually going to cost more.

Still presented a problem in that the supporting bracket for the turbo was still fouling the pipe, however I realised that the inlet and exhaust side of the turbo had been aligned to suit its previous application, a 1.8t Fabia conversion (see Benjen's now RWD Fabia project). So I slackened off the retaining joiners and gently twisted the inlet side clockwise, while taking care with the actuator rod. I'm assuming this is perfectly acceptable to do this? Turbo still spins freely and no change in play. I disconnected the oil and coolant feeds as not to put strain on the tubes while I did this.

Now all ready to rumble:

So time to get the engine back to the car. As you can see I've had the engine on a DIY trolley made out of a bit of pallet, some bracing wood and a set of heavy duty castors.

Wheeled it into place and have already reconnected and bled the clutch slave cylinder. Tomorrow I'll get the hoist back out and lift the engine up and attach to the engine mounts. Thereafter get driveshafts bolted up, reattach the gear linkages, power steering lines (plus fill with fluid) and look at the downpipe / cat.

I'm getting slightly concerned that I'm due to move house by the end of this month and there is still a fair bit to do, and that's assuming it will start and run too. Mapping will have to wait until post house move.

Edited 6 June, 201510 yr by Leeboy

As long as the turbo is horizontal it should be fine, turbo's don't like leaning, but that should be ok.

A couple of weeks have gone by since last update and,.....

It lives!

Vital fluids added, reusing once filtered to remove bits

Resistors in place of the solenoids for the various deletes that I've done. Soldered these directly in to the loom.

Because of time running out before house move, I have had to cobble together the charge cooler loop using standard side intercooler... I have some clearance issues with the manifold and downpipe so stuff is going to get hot for now.

Going to get a specialist to modify the downpipe to give better clearance around the steering rack fluid lines.

Downpipe against heat shield

Bodged turbo to charge pipe

Not much space down the back

And from underneath

But it made it to the local gas station for a bit of well deserved fresh super unleaded

Only obvious issue is idling is not steady. Revs drop,but ecu thinks it's going to stall and increases revs a little and so it cycles up and down every five or ten seconds. Ideas? I do have the engine light on,so something is not quite right with my deletes I think.

Edited 23 June, 201510 yr by Leeboy

good work so far fella and great updates

It's been six weeks since last up date and the biggest achievement for yellow peril II has been to successfully move from Hampshire to Wiltshire. With most of the unpacking done, time to get this car capable of packing some serious horse power.

You'll remember I had to make do with cobbling together a downpipe and cat so I could drive the car away come house completion day. There were though some major clearance issues with the steering rack, non more so than here:

I found myself an great old-school engineering workshop by the name of Torque Techniques in Salisbury who custom make exhausts and manifolds for anything with two or more wheels.

First the existing downpipe was modified and a heavier duty flexible section was welded in to give plenty of clearence around the rack

And was joined on to my previously kept 100 cell Milltek cat that use to sit on the underside of Yellow Peril I. Thereafter the rest of the system has been kept at 3" diameter including over the rear beam

To a single silencer box at the rear. I also had the rectangular standard end pipe fabricated onto the end of the new system to keep an original appearance from the outside.

Next stop is to sort out coolant and an oil leak. Properly sort the catch can. Get the front mount IC installed, work out why it won't idle right and then remap to see its full potential. Watch this space!

Great work!

 

I now know why i haven't seen this around then, it's no longer in Hampshire.

Great work man! Very interested to see what figures this puts out once she's running sweet and mapped 

Great work!

I now know why i haven't seen this around then, it's no longer in Hampshire.

Yep, I've defected across the border to Wiltshire. I can report that my now local Skoda dealer parts dept, Westover Skoda, are keeping me supplied with bits and bobs to help me sort water and oil leak issues. They are a friendly bunch when it comes to the older Skoda.

Edited 14 August, 201510 yr by Leeboy

One of my issues so far with the poor running is that the car is only achieving an indicated temperature of around 70°C. I've got to anyhow rework the heater hose feed to the bulkhead as I had to dodge a bypass previously as the turbo actuator is in the way of the metal coolant tube, so I have bought another one of these as I had to cut the original one to complete the system. So having stripped off what feels like half the engine to get the old tube out, I thought I'd change the thermostat while it was accessible. I had a spare that came out of the shot engine, so set about getting the thermostat flange housing off, not easy if you do it with the alternator wiring in place.

So after a bit of a struggle, out popped the thermostat and I saw it had some debris trapped in it. Could this be the cause of cool running?

On closer inspection on the reverse side there were legs....

So it seems a spider made its way in somewhere, I guess into the radiator as I had this stored in the back garden while the engine was out, and has since been boiled alive!

I guess fortunately it hadn't been forced down the coolant line for the turbo as it could have blocked the banjo bolt and caused overheating of the turbo bearings.

I don't suppose this was the cause of my cool running but worthwhile finding.

I've purchased a new temperature sensor to stick in so know that'll be sorted too. Otherwise the car is running rich at the moment until it's mapped, so may be part of the reason too.

I think I've also found the source of my oil leak which I thought was associated with the oil filter take off and crank case breather assembly. However it probably turns out that I didn't properly push home the new dipstick funnel firmly into place so I guess this was where oil was escaping at the front of the block...

I sorted out my coolant system so now have interior heater, no leaks and a temp gauge that sits nicely at 90°. I have also solved the oil leak from the dipstick funnel.

So all good. Engine had its cheapy oil drained and new filter fitted, plus topped up with some Mobil synthetic 5 35 oil that is currently 20% off at Halfords

Test drive time and bit of a flat spot around three and a half, but pulls really well all the way to the red line despite standard map and single side mount factory intercooler.

However after this short blast pulling 90 in third, next time the turbo spooled up it sounded more like a washing machine winding up its spin cycle....

I think the turbo is toast....

I pulled the intake pipe off and I don't remember the impeller blades having a turned end to them

So suggests excessive play in the shaft. Insufficient oil pressure blocked oil feed, or return? The latter was brand new. The former was flushed... How can I check pressure here? Also I'm concerned that I have metal shavings in the cylinder head now.

Mwah...

Damn cars.

Aww that sucks! 

 

Hopefully it's just a bit of excessive end float and no contaminants have gotten into anywhere. 

I hope everything will be okay after all the work you've put into it ... I'm out of depth with most of the technical mumbo jumbo but am finding it fascinating to read..

I hope everything will be okay after all the work you've put into it ... I'm out of depth with most of the technical mumbo jumbo but am finding it fascinating to read..

Thanks, no progress at the moment as I need to get the turbo off which will be fun with the manifold its running. However I'm waiting for the drive way to have its top coat of tarmac applied before I get it back on axle stands and start spannering to pieces again. This will be next week and then I can start making progress

Edited 12 September, 201510 yr by Leeboy

So what happened next? Not much although I've purchased a new KO4 hybrid stage 3 turbo, but don't want to balls it up again so sent the car off to someone who knows what they are up to. Expect it to be away for two to three weeks.

Bye bye yellow car....

Nice to see you've got another yellow one Lee. Keep up the good work.