Felicia 1.9D non start

[gmrtn14]

My old Felicia 1.9D has spent a year or so in the custody of my father in law - it's done 190k miles now and failed to start the other morning so he's got another car and I have the old girl back to do as I please with.

It had the usual failed ignition switch/barrel in the past so has a push button start wired in - turn the ignition on with the key and then push to start.

When I push the button now, I can hear the starter relay click but absolutely nothing from the motor.  Also noticed that the glow plug light no longer comes on when the ignition is turned on (temperature sensor is disconnected so it comes on every time normally)

Any ideas?  First thought was starter but the lack of a glow plug light has me wondering.

It starts and drives fine with a bump start!

[KenONeill]

I'd check the battery anyway. Really low volts will stop the glowplug light because well, insufficient current to do the pre-heat.

[gmrtn14]

It's had a battery very recently but I will check it out! 

[KenONeill]

It's clearly not the immobiliser since you can tow start, which makes me think of the battery (probably a broken down cell which is most likely on a new or worn out unit) or loose and hence high resistance battery post connectors.

[gmrtn14]

Either of those scenarios involving the battery will amuse me since he insisted on taking it to a certain large motor accessories / cycling goods retailer rather than letting me sort it out for him

[TeflonTom]

Check the condition and security of the cables to and from the battery starter motor alternator etc, also theres an earth wire drivers side down the back of the engine block that goes to the earth stud on the body under the strut brace. Sometimes these work loose from the vibration. The other earth is from the battery straight to one of the mounting studs on the gearbox.

as a quick test, put a jump lead from the battery negative post onto any metal part on the engine and see if it starts.

[RicardoM]

How about using the good old method for electrical diagnosis: a test lamp or a voltOhmmeter? instead of guessing... Battery cells and battery/starter cables are the first candidates indeed. It is usually about corrosion and age.

Edited 29 April, 2015 by RicardoM

[gmrtn14]

Checked over the wiring with a meter today and it all seems fine - apart from the wire from the solenoid to the motor which is badly corroded and was either broken or broke when I touched it!

Whipped the starter out and I'll replace that wire and see what happens!

[RicardoM]

Probably cleaning that wire will fix your problem, assuming you measured the battery too.

 

But as an aside note, for those having similar problems, measuring the resistance of thick, high current cables with an ohmmeter is not always a reliable test. Here is what I witnessed on a car. The same symptoms, no start, slight click from the starter, no crank. The battery was fully charged, in top shape. No corrosion on battery poles or on starter poles. All cables had continuity when measured with the ohmmeter, zero ohms. Yet the problem was generated by the thick cable between battery and starter. Water had seeped inside its sleeve and corroded almost completely the wires inside, only a few strands were left intact. Enough to get continuity with an ohmmeter but under load...  not enough current could pass.

Edited 1 May, 2015 by RicardoM

[gmrtn14]

That's interesting - the battery cables are showing their age for sure so I might replace them regardless of whether the starter issue is sorted or not

[Call me Ishmael]

Have you tried starting her with jump leads from another car? It'd at least tell you if the battery was to fault or if the problem's further downstream in the wiring/starter motor, as the other guys are suggesting.

Just a thought.....might be worth a shot.