RicardoM

Mike sleeps with his Felicia in his bedroom. She has her own mattress. So no rust 😅

A bad immobiliser would throw an error usually. Moreover, the way your car started to act before failing is not consistent with an immobiliser fault. Typically a faulty or not paired immobiliser results in the engine starting perfect but stopping abruptly in 2-3 seconds. PS: please remember that I have no direct access to your car and I have to take your word for the diagnose of fuel, air, timing, and compression. As an example in this regard, when I asked you if you can hear the fuel pump buzzing when key ON, that was the most basic check. That only tells current is getting to the pump. Yet that is not proof enough the pump develops enough pressure. You didn't mention how many miles your car has and when (it anytime) did you change the fuel pump. A fuel pump on its last leg can produce the exact symptoms you described. You would need a fuel pressure gauge to decide that.

You might be happy but the values are in the lower range. The definitive test is still the cylinder leak down test. Here is a trick to decide if there are vacuum leaks. If you screw in (clockwise) the mixture screw all the way the engine should stop. If that doesn't happen, there are vacuum leaks and the carburetor will work like crap.

According to you, the situation is as follows: fuel - checked air: checked timing: checked compression: checked So we are left with spark diagnose. Check for strong spark on each cylinder with a spark tester. If no spark, check the following: wiring from ECU to ignition coil and corrosion check in the 4-pin connector wiring from ECU to Hall sensor and corrosion check in the 3-pin connector wiring from ECU to knock sensor and corrosion check in the 2-pin connector presence of proper I/O signals at each pin of the above connectors with contact key ON and cranking ON. By wiring check I mean continuity check and short circuit check.

Just to be clear, is it a crank no start issue? Or does it start for 2-3 seconds then stops? As for the compression measurement, please tell me the values you got.

I couldn't find in your description any proof that the issue is immobilizer related. You have changed already parts without having clear evidence of what failed. I presume that you browsed this section for clues and tried what looked somehow related. Since I don't know how technically savvy you are and what diagnose tools you own, let's start easy. The first thing that I would check is the fuel pump. The second thing to check is some corrosion issue in a connector or inside the relay box, especially since you mentioned the windscreen is leaky. So, do you hear the fuel pump whirring when you turn the ignition key on?

What is that picture has to do with the topic of this thread? Are you chasing wrecks? Do you have information that is a Felicia with carburetor? Or is this another one of your trolling campaigns?

When you said 'saved from scrapyard' I thought the cars were already abandoned, ready to be saved from being crushed and melted, then repaired from a last trip to another country. I watched a series of such contests on the Discovery channel. Scrapyard Wars or similar. Now I understand you meant 'saved from getting to scrapyard', on a journey from-to Czechia. Otherwise it would have been a clever way to get rid of garbage cars from Czechia and dump them to Romania, making videos of their adventure in the process. Nevertheless, I agree with @Thefeliciahackerwhen he says he doesn't like Skoda Felicia cars being abused. I don't like the abuse of any car.

If you know the value of the delay as a constant, it is very easy. In fact, we are discussing about a false issue that I never raised. I did never say that the ECU knows instantaneously what cylinder(s) had an exhaust event. I said there is very possible to have different control signals for each (pair of) injectors between two successive exhaust events. You raised the issue of having just one single lambda probe, and implied the impossibility of adjusting 'the other pair' of injectors with a different control signal. I say again that the existence of a single lambda probe has no relevance. The lambda probe works continuously, despite the control signal being delayed. The entire feedback of the closed loop for emissions is delayed due to various factors (the probe itself, the distance between the exhaust valve and the lambda probe, etc.). The ECU reacts all the time with a delay after the current exhaust event. Yet that delay doesn't make impossible for the lambda probe to differentiate between two successive exhaust events and output a different signal. I hope my explanation was clear, although the nuance is subtle.

Saving them? You mean the cars get repaired to live another life? Or is it in fact a new 'clever' way of exporting garbage cars from one scrapyard to another in a foreign country?

I am blown away 😅 by the fact that for you P stands for 'professional' and it has "pin protection", whatever you think that means. In fact it has a few extended features. What can I say? Throw a party. Put a sticker on your bumper. Whatever makes you happy. By the way, it is Mono-Motronic, not Monotronic. You are making a common mistake. In the context of our discussion about the possibility of 'measuring each cylinder', when you say 'period of lambda signal' in fact you are referring to the LATENCY of the lambda probe (see photo). Moreover, you are making the assumption that the lambda probe can not keep up with the speed of cylinder exhaust cycles. That is obviously wrong. Why? Because it would defy the entire purpose of a lambda sensor. The lambda sensor was created to measure the oxygen content for any engine speed. You can see in the attached photo how the signal can have also a shorter time of variation. At higher engine speeds the signal goes full high (~0.9V) or full low (!0.1V). That happens because the ECU has an integrator circuit followed by an operational amplifier connected as a comparator at the input port for the lambda sensor, not because the lambda sensor is slow. Slightly delayed with an average value of 0.25 s, yes. Not keeping up with the engine speed, not. We can go further into this discussion if you want and talk about the rate of signal acquisition of the ECU, but that is not the point. In conclusion, we can debate for days the theory behind closed loop emissions measurement, but to me it is enough you agreed to disagree that TP-6 has not an almost perfect precision. Are there better solutions? Of course, but none of them is almost perfect. I have mentioned the differential flow meter because the sensor is inserted in the fuel stream, thus measuring directly quantities of fuel in a certain amount of time. We don't have to guess anymore if the injector is acting properly or not. We just subtract fuel out from fuel in. By the way, I appreciate that you bring a more informed feedback from the home country of Felicia.

What signal 'period' are you referring to? What measurement of each cylinder are you talking about?

The correlation between injectors firing and the number of oxygen sensors makes no sense. You don't need several oxygen sensors to feed back a different injection duration control, for the simple reason that injection occurs at different times per cylinders. One oxygen sensor is perfectly capable to measure oxygen concentration variations in time and ECU to send different injection control signals accordingly. The possibility of calibration does not necessarily imply the fuel consumption measurement will be accurate forever, In a real world the injectors have the bad habit of getting more or less faulty from many reasons. In fact, we are discussing from different perspectives. While you declare that the meter has "almost perfect accuracy", I, as an engineer living in a real world, have to specify that your assumption is true only in an ideal world. For you it might be ideal to calibrate the computer often, for me it is not. Can we live with a fuel flow meter having a reasonable accuracy? Sure, for most drivers we can, except for those having some sort of OCD. But in my opinion the meter has not almost perfect precision. That is why I advised those in need of a more realistic precision meter to use a differential flow meter. In conclusion, I have nothing against your opinion, except for that accurate precision you mentioned.

Actually the sensor for injection picks up the control signal using a coil mounted on a single injector, usually no. 4. The method for measuring instantaneous fuel consumption on TC-6 is far from perfection for various reasons, such as: There is only one sensor on a single injector. Control signals are not necessarily identical for all injectors. The injectors work perfectly only in an ideal world. The ECU has not the possibility to know for sure how much fuel squirt each injector in reality. Some injectors might have smaller or bigger electrical and/or mechanical problems. The perfect solution is to use a differential fuel flow meter that works as a fuel flow difference between the fuel flow entering the injection rail and the fuel flow exiting the injection rail at a given time.

From the entire video you decided to take the part where the author mentioned repeatedly that his experiment about the incoming cars was NOT scientific... You have clearly missed his point. Although the main part of the light beam apparently has the correct pattern, a lot of unwanted light is reflected upwards. I am talking about meters of unwanted reflections, not centimeters that might be corrected from the headlight knobs.

This is why you should NOT install LED lights in reflectors and lens designed for halogen bulbs. Watch till the end this honest review.

This topic reminds me of OceanGate, Stockton Rush, and Titan submersible implosion. Stockton died and 4 other innocent people died with him because he thought he is the smartest scientist, he can cut many corners, and he can use flimsy parts. He wanted to have fun. So he did. Good luck. Enjoy.

You have to be more specific. LEDs refer to the source of the light, but what about the housing of that source of light and the lens? Are you referring to just using LEDs instead of the halogen bulb and keeping the original reflector and the ribbed lens? Or are you referring to using a projector with LEDs, getting rid of the reflector and using clear lens?

My experience using Osram and Philips bulbs is that you can't see any difference of lighting. Moreover, they run hotter and have a short life for that reason. To keep the original look, you'll have to make extensive modifications. Change the ribbed lens of the headlight to CLEAR lens and use one or two projectors from other models of cars. That is a (kind of) legal solution. I have never seen one such modification with my own eyes but I've read articles from dedicated Felicia Czech forum which showed only how they look, but not details of construction or lighting comparison.

1,200 Felicias in 2023 is a very respectable number for the UK. Knowing how strict the MOT is in there, I think they are well maintained despite high costs for the parts and humid weather.

All car service shops get their money mostly from the price of the parts and less from the labor costs. They offer a certain guarantee for the parts they sell and for the labor. Yes, the prices are high because car repairs are not always easy jobs and there are many costs involved to run such business. Of course, there is always the cheaper alternative to buy the parts and do the repairs yourself. That is, if you have the knowledge, the skills, some space, and you have the money to invest in tools. As for Skoda Felicia; nobody said it is a car for pensioners. It is a family car. Husband, wife, one kid, two at most, for short to medium trips. You will never make a real performance car from Skoda Felicia unless you pay much more than the value of the car itself. That is, if you have big money or take a loan from the bank then pay for years. In which case, it is much effective to buy another second hand car with better performance. It is all about money. Win a lottery, get an inheritance, be successful in your profession to have a big salary or have a successful business of your own. If not, you stay with a Skoda Felicia and you save money for months or years to buy from time to time one new 'performance' part and dream you have an Audi Quattro.

Skoda Felicia was created as a cheap family car to compete on the small cars markets. Those who bought a Skoda Felicia were poor or middle class people. That is a fact. It is delusional to think that by putting all kind of parts on it (bling bling), the car will become a totally different car. No, Felicia will remain a small family car. In present times, Skoda Felicia is the car for people without much money who can not afford a better car. People keep it for nostalgic reasons, but otherwise it lacks many things. To make it really better, you would have to spend so much money that it would be wiser to buy another more powerful, more comfortable, safer car.

Dnipro, Ukraine, yesterday.

All highly advertised halogen bulbs that promise the heaven and earth have three main attributes: expensive, fragile, and short lived. In fact they are all glorified overpowered bulbs.

I forgot to mention that you need clear lens too.