Just out of interest guys, I'm currently rebuilding/freshening up a 1.6 AFH concoction I've bought for my Felicia but what do they rev to as I know they rev a darn sight more than the standard gauge will show  

Any body know?

Be careful, the sintered conrods will only take about 6.5k before they let go, heavy flywheel doesn't help either but they idle real rough with a light flywheel.

Iirc the AFH ecu has the Rev limit capped at 6150rpm.

ok so I cant over rev it then?

No it should be ok, they drive much better when they are pushed hard.. In fact I miss mine, I find that the 20v beast is unmanageable sometimes, whereas you could redline the Valver everywhere.

It'll have a hard life when its being used, its going in my road rally car so it'll be idle or full chat, that's why I'm giving it a full going over and refresh before it goes in.

If it's going to get driven hard I would fit a warm climate thermostat, you can get them from vw, it's standard fit on cars built in hot countries.

ah right thanks, is that so it opens sooner so is slightly cooler running?

Yes that's it, there is a few different choices of temperature ranges available.

ah right, never good giving a man choice, what would you advise as you have experience.

Ok another question, I'm just sorting out ordering up my parts, what's the difference in eng codes AFH , AFK, AQQ & AUB, their all 1.4 16v 100hp engines in polos of the same year, how will I know which I have or is stuff such as cam belt kits water pump oil pump the same across them all?

Scrap that I was being stupid!

just out of interest does any body know (or has anybody) if its worth fitting the ARC/AVY injectors whilst I'm changing everything over? I'm thinking I might fit an adjustable fuel pressure reg so not sure if I'll need to but the question stands :-D lol

It will run nicer on the purple AFH injectors.

super thanks, with the addition of a pressure reg?

What for? Waste of money, the oem fuel pressure regulator is perfect for the job.

Another one for you guys, I'm going to put an oil cooler on the motor, Going to replace the oil pump for a brand new one for piece of mind of course, first off am I right in believing that both oil pumps are the same? and it will have the power to pump the oil though a cooler wont it?

Yes the pump will be fine, beware on which oil sandwich plate you get, I'm pretty certain it has an imperial thread on the threaded bit for the spin on filter, I think it's 3/4"unc.

Be careful fitting a new pump.  I had a real difficulty getting mine to prime when I first rebuilt the engine.  I used the old engine-builders' trick of priming the pump with vaseline, but it wasn't sucky enough to draw the oil from the sump. 

 

My advice would be to make sure you properly fill the pump with clean engine oil before you fit it to the car and indeed to turn it round by hand to really make sure there are no dry spots.  In the end I ended up assembling the pickup and pump off the car, immersing the pickup in a cup of oil and turning it over on a battery-powered drill to make sure it was actually drawing, before re-fitting to the car.  Complete nightmare.

Thanks guys, its a 3/4 unf thread Tom very common oil filter thread, the plate came with that and an M20 one again very common. Iv had to get a mate to machine it down slightly as it's slightly to long and bottoms out before its tight.

 

Also thanks for that little heads up fruitbat, its out of the car and in bits at the mo, full rebuild, but yeah I'll make sure I prime the crap outa the pump.

It always struck me as odd having an imperial thread, its the only one on the entire car, but like you say they were just working to whatever off the shelf filters they could get from the manufacturers at the time.