Going to change my spark plugs but not sure exactly what to do.

 

Read up about the cap at the end of the spark needing to be 0.28, how the hell do i do that?

 

Also about regreasing the coils. Does this NEED to be done?

 

Anyone got an idiots guide on what all needs done?

You need to get a set of feeler gauges and carefully tap or bend the outer ground electrode down and check the gap with the correct build up of gauge blades - they should be a nice sliding fit through the gap, not loose, not tight. Not sure what the plugs look like if they're multi-electrode you'll just need to fit them. Worth putting a tiny smear of grease on the thread - start them back in with your fingers or stuck in a short length of hose. DO NOT overtighten them. Maybe an owner's maintenance manual would give you loads of other useful info :-)

Also, check that figure you have for the gap. I suspect 0.28 is too small to be a metric setting and too large to be an imperial one. Most likely it is 0.028“ or about 0.7mm. I don't remember seeing a gap below .015“ recommended on even old ignition systems.

Last time I changed spark plugs I worked in imperial, where thegap is measured in "thou "( thousands of an inch), and my feeler gauges had numbers stamped on them ( e.g 5 = 5thou). Best advice I can give is to find the gap ( and work in one or either of the measurements -imperial or metric).  Forv example in imperial, if gap should be 28thou, I'd select a group of gauges of 27 thou and 29thou. For a single electrode type, check first at 29thou . The gauge SHOULD NOT fit,but if 27 fits, then plug is gapped correctly. If too large ,then GENTLY tap the outer to reduce the gap.( Be aware that the centre has a porcelain covering which WILL break id the inner is bent. If too small( 27 does not fit ), use something like a fine knife blade resting on the rim of the plug to gently open the gap, taking care NOT TO move the inner( There is a proper plug gaping tool available).  Remove and fit the plugs when cold - it's easier on the hands -hot engine burns. Start the plug by hand, ot if in a deep recess, use a rubber innered plug socket on an extension length and insert by hand. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE PLUG, as this will crush the copper washer. LAST, BUT NOT LEAST. Change ONE plug at a time. That way ,there is no chance of mixing plug leads.

Anyone got a link to where i could buy a feeler gauge and some grease? Anyone know what gap i should have for the FL TSI vRS?

Feeler gauge, easy, ebay.

 

Grease as in anti seize, can do but oil will do also just to help them screw in. Finger tight to start off the thread then use your plug spanner/T-bar.

 

See youtube, plenty of vids on all manner of stuff if you need a "How to"

It is 'Dielectric Grease' you use.

Your correct plugs may come pre set and you are checking they are correct, make any adjustment with great care.

Dont you get those fancy 3 pronged spark plugs that are pre-set anyways

The over-tightening is more to do with preventing stripping the threads in the aluminium cylinder heads, the copper washer ought to compress slightly to make a seal. We used a smear of graphite grease on the threads of aero engine plugs - on cars I use a wee drop of copper-grease, even standard bearing grease is fine, just don't get it on the electrodes of the plug :-) Go for it, they're not difficult to do.

TBH, in all my years of DIY servicing, I've never lubricated the plug threads, and only problem I've had with plug changes was with a car tht had been main dealer serviced- plugs were way too tight. Solution is to get a haynes manual and a torque wrench and torque them in. Other way is to put them in with a 3/8 socket set. pretty impossible to over tighten them . One other thing to be aware of- there's two types/sizes of plugs. The larger ones give few problems, but I've had problems on the smaller size ( mostly on Vauxhalls of various vintages) where they do tend to clog up, so as a matter of principle, when I change plugs ( unlikely now as furby don't need them) , I clean/gap etc the best two and keep them in my tool box, in case of problems.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/121067932876?limghlpsr=true&hlpv=2&ops=true&viphx=1&hlpht=true&lpid=108&chn=ps&device=c&rlsatarget=&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0-L&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=108

 

These are the same plugs i got. Do they need pre set or can i just put them in?

They are preset as they came to you,  you need to check they are all OK, not wrongly set, and be careful when you are handling them and putting them in not to dunt the end with the gap.

Don't grease or oil the threads.

 

I'm pretty sure NGK specifically advise not to, as their plugs are specially electroplated, and greasing is unecessary and potentially problematical.

Different strokes for different folks.

Not grease on the threads, but Dielectric Grease on the Ignition Coils.

(and use can use a piece of Rubber hose to put the top of the spark plug in to put it back in and start threading it carefully and to be sure of no careless cross threading.)

Edited 1 June, 201511 yr by goneoffSKi

One of the main things I would suggest is be very very careful not to cross thread the plugs - can be very expensive replacing them!

You definately have to be retarded to cross threads especially at that size of thread

You definately have to be retarded to cross threads especially at that size of thread

But you can still over-tighten !

 

Nick

I suppose i do work with tools everyday so maybe a bit unfair on my part

When tightening all you need to do is until it nips and then maybe 1/4turn at most