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Fabia wet rear door cards

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First post,

I have a 51 Plate Fabia 1.4 MPI Comfort Automatic.

How you remove the rear door interior handles so I can fix the wet door cards please?

Car has manual windows on the rear. I've been a bit timid in trying to split the handle apart for fear of breaking it but I need to get to the screws that must be underneath, any tricks?

Are you confident in stripping the window regulators? this is where the water comes in. See THIS thread.

I would post a 'how to' but due to this problem being in a bulletin I cant for legal reasons.

  • Author

Thanks for the info.

One of the difficulties is there seems to be no workshop manual available for this car.

Re. stripping the window regulators:

If they are similar to the Mk3 Golf I'll be OK.

I'm still having a problem getting the door handle apart!

The window regs are mounted to an aluminium plate bolted to the door, see the other thred.

  • Author

I thiks I've go the idea.

Do the door handles just spring apart if you insert a wide bladed tool between the parts or are there some hidden clips to relaease?

I thiks I've go the idea.

Do the door handles just spring apart if you insert a wide bladed tool between the parts or are there some hidden clips to relaease?

Ive just resealed mine last week m8, to take of the winder handles all you need to do is...

1,Make sure the window is wound up.

2,look at the handle, between the main handle and the door card there is a plastic washer the same colour as the handle.

3,make sure the handle is facing down,put your finger under the washer and pull/push up,it will pop up, slide the handle off,bingo!!

4,do the reverse to put on. :thumbup:

5,no need for screwdrivers e.t.c.

If you need any more help just ask it took me about 1 hour to take of both door cards and re-seal,now nice and dry :D

Ive just resealed mine last week m8' date=' to take of the winder handles all you need to do is...

1,Make sure the window is wound up.

2,look at the handle, between the main handle and the door card there is a plastic washer the same colour as the handle.

3,make sure the handle is facing down,put your finger under the washer and pull/push up,it will pop up, slide the handle off,bingo!!

4,do the reverse to put on. :thumbup:

5,no need for screwdrivers e.t.c.

If you need any more help just ask it took me about 1 hour to take of both door cards and re-seal,now nice and dry :D[/quote']

Oh and the door Handles,locate the door handles the BIG one in the middle of the door I assume this is what your talking about also.The front part of the main door handle pop's off if you push a flat head screwdriver in to the little lip and push up it will come of easy,the other much larger part just slides off once the smaller part has been poped off.This reveals 3 screws that you take out.

And 1 more thing,the door opening handle needs to be disconected also.If you look at the ones in your rear door beside the little handle there is a small metal meshed speaker bit,this pops out.just pull the small handle and you will see a small place to get a screw driver in,pop it out and you will see a screw,take this out and bobs your uncle.

  • Author

Thanks, managed to get the top part off the main door pull handle.

Screw driver under the front of the small part at the top then lift off, back part then slides forward and off.

Only found two screws to take out.

I've had to abandon the job now due to rain /poor light.

What did you use to seal the carrier?

I don't want to use silcone as it contains acid and will start rust and it's a pig to get off again, I've got some butyl glazing compond maybe I'll try that.

Thanks' date=' managed to get the top part off the main door pull handle.

Screw driver under the front of the small part at the top then lift off, back part then slides forward and off.

Only found two screws to take out.

I've had to abandon the job now due to rain /poor light.

What did you use to seal the carrier?

I don't want to use silcone as it contains acid and will start rust and it's a pig to get off again, I've got some butyl glazing compond maybe I'll try that.[/quote']

Im using black roof and gutter sealant it is silcone based.... but has a treatment to prevent rust,and plastic corrosion.You can buy it from homebase etc.Or I have a friend with an ibiza who used window,black mastic sealant,but it stays soft and im not convinced that it will not start moving.

Any way m8 rusting wont be a problem the fabias use galvanised panels and the internal panel u have to reseal is alu.Ive had and so have many others,no problems with black silicone sealant, hope you get it done soon as the bad weather isnt helping I bet :D And ive just sorted out a rattle behind my glove compartment,its better to do things your self,means not being charged the earth by a main dealer...........

boydie - Did you remove the ali panels or seal over the top of them?

boydie - Did you remove the ali panels or seal over the top of them?

I removed the panels cleaned of that foam thing then put them back in and sealed over the rim where th ali panel meets the inner door panel.and everything has been great no more wet interior and I live in scotland Its been raining like hell no wettness or musty smell....... :thumbup:

  • Author

Well had another go at this today.

I really struggled to get the door card to release from the top moulding on the NSR door, but with quite brutal tugging starting from the hinge end it finally gave. I also had to prise from the lock end. The result was slight damage at the point where the glazing bar is. The 'glass wiper' part of the mounding stayed on the door. In contrast the OSR card released from the top moulding relatively easily and the 'glass wiper' part came with it.

The NSR had been leaking quite badly the door seal between the door and the roof had fallen away so this may be a contributing factor. This was re-attached using double sided carpet tape.

Inside the door the foam seal between the window winder cassette and the door had started to disintegrate on the lower half so I pulled most of it off then used Wicks clear 'all weather' sealant to seal the lower half of the cassette to the door. I hope this works, there did not seem to be any evidence of water leakage on the top half.

On the OSR I left the foam in place and used the sealer on the lower half again.

Look like we are due some more rain tonight so tomorrow may reveal success or not!

Well had another go at this today.

I really struggled to get the door card to release from the top moulding on the NSR door' date=' but with quite brutal tugging starting from the hinge end it finally gave. I also had to prise from the lock end. The result was slight damage at the point where the glazing bar is. The 'glass wiper' part of the mounding stayed on the door. In contrast the OSR card released from the top moulding relatively easily and the 'glass wiper' part came with it.

The NSR had been leaking quite badly the door seal between the door and the roof had fallen away so this may be a contributing factor. This was re-attached using double sided carpet tape.

Inside the door the foam seal between the window winder cassette and the door had started to disintegrate on the lower half so I pulled most of it off then used Wicks clear 'all weather' sealant to seal the lower half of the cassette to the door. I hope this works, there did not seem to be any evidence of water leakage on the top half.

On the OSR I left the foam in place and used the sealer on the lower half again.

Look like we are due some more rain tonight so tomorrow may reveal success or not![/quote']

Yeah u need to give it 24 hrs, only then will you know,i had to take of my nsr again to patch a bit that was still leaking a tad.

  • Author

Well a week now no leaks :)

I would not recommend using the sealer I did as the smell takes ages to get rid of.

Well a week now no leaks :)

I would not recommend using the sealer I did as the smell takes ages to get rid of.

Great :thumbup: "welcome to the dry Skoda Club" :D

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