The other day whilst driving to work my traction control light came on and stayed on, and when coming home the management light came on too. Have just bought a cable of eBay and downloaded VCDS lite. I have scanned te car and have come back with the following codes:

Abs brakes - 01314 engine control module

013 check doc memory

Engine - 17544 fuel trim 1 system too lean

16486 shareware version to decide all dtcs but I presume this is due to the unregistered VCDS lite

I'm sure the later is due to a split in a pipe but not sure tbh. Can any one she's some light and point me in the right direction.

Cheers

The 01314 code is a weird one, as far as I know it's telling you some fault has been logged which needs to be addressed and it's telling you this through the abs system (also linked to traction control). It may not be an abs issue as such, mine turned out to be but still. A failing maf can also trigger the tcl and associated lights. I would say that the lean running is the issue which could be a vacuum leak or a failing fuel pump, could be a lot of things mind but I think the 01314 is basically telling you about that. Check Ross tech wiki to give causes and symptoms of codes and follow through, let us know what they say.

You can check if your maf is faltering by measuring what it's doing in g/second, which will be x0.8 your horsepower or thereabouts. If it's in the ball park should be ok, but lean is probably vacuum rather than intake after maf anyway.

Thanks, will check Ross tech wiki now and post back what it says

Thanks, will check Ross tech wiki now and post back what it says

01314 - Engine Control Module: Check DTC Memory

Possible Causes

Fault(s) stored in Engine Control Module

Possible Solutions

Check Engine Control Module for Fault Codes

Special Notes

Engine Control Module stored a Code which influences other Control Modules Functionality.

To clear this Fault Code you will need to correct the Problem in the Engine Control Module first.

This is what it says in Ross tech wiki.

Also can you elaborate and explain alittle more about how to test the MAF please yellowcar

Yes I think it's referring you to the lean code problem, as if a car is lean the parameters of other things have to be adjusted to compensate, when it can do no more the engine light will probably come on.

Anyway, go into engine, measuring blocks, put 002 in the top group. Click log and it will ask you to select a destination for the saved file (which in the end becomes an excel spreadsheet). Click start, 2nd gear will do for this, go wide open throttle from around 5200rpm to redline (pick a nice national speed limit road obviously). When done, pull over click stop, done.

Look at the file the intake air mass will be expressed as grammes/second. If you find the highest value as you accelerated, multiply by 0.8 and it should be somewhere near your horsepower, if the value is low or much lower your maf is faltering. As an example mine gave me 170g/s which means the maf is good for 212 bhp, which is a little high (car is around 207) actually but that has something to do with being above sea level and what happens to airflow after charge. As long as it's not markedly lower the maf looks good.

Thanks you, I'll go and give it a blast and see what it says.

Just to close this tread if anybody is interested, I clearedall codes and rescanned the car and it came back with a MAF issue, can't remember the code now, but said there was low signal from the MAF. So went to My local ECP and picked up a replacement Bosch MAF, cleared the codes again and all seems good. Haven't been for a proper run in it, but am sure it will all be fine. Thanks for all the help.

Glad you've sorted it, will keep fingers crossed.

Hi

 

Just read this post and thought I'd comment on it, yes the fault code will clear down and a new MAF will be ok for a short time but after a while the fault code will come back, this happened on mine, I cleaned out the throttle body, bought two MAF's one cheap one and then a genuine MAF.

 

The cause in the end was a split breather hose underneath the throttle body, there were two hoses that was found to be split. After I replaced these hoses the fault code was cleared and after 6 months of driving its been perfect since.

Or it could be sorted, keep that in mind but just see how it plays out.

Thanks for the heads up, I had a quick check for split hoses when I put the new maf on and couldn't see anything. I'll have a proper rummage after the weekend.

You may have solved it!! Hopefully you have! But just to bear in mind what I had on mine! I didn't notice the split hoses until I properly looked!