Does anyone have any suggestions on how to adjust the actuator on the turbo whilst it's on the car?

I'm trying to lengthen the rod, but it seems that it's already at its longest, or I'm doing something wrong.

if you have run out of threads theres nothing more you can do

if you have run out of threads theres nothing more you can do

To lengthen the rod, do you just turn the 10mm nut that's on the thread? Nothing else?

Also, can't even see a stop screw. It is a little tricky with the turbo on the car, but can't see a stopper at all.

http://uk-mkivs.net/topic/34834-vnt-tdi-turbo-how-to-adjust-actuator-cure-boost-problems/

Fantastic guide from Uk-mkivs!

To lengthen the rod, do you just turn the 10mm nut that's on the thread? Nothing else?

Also, can't even see a stop screw. It is a little tricky with the turbo on the car, but can't see a stopper at all.

No that's just the lock nut,you need to turn part the lock nut holds to alter length.

But it can be hard because of the spring pressure in actuator,I use a vacuum pump onto the actuator and pump it up slightly until you can feel the adjuster goes loose,it's easy to turn then

No that's just the lock nut,you need to turn part the lock nut holds to alter length.

But it can be hard because of the spring pressure in actuator,I use a vacuum pump onto the actuator and pump it up slightly until you can feel the adjuster goes loose,it's easy to turn then

Thanks very much

Going to have another go today, but from memory, where the lock nut holds, it won't spin because it's attached to a lever. Do I have to disconnect it?

That may be a completely wrong recollection, but just checking

Only ever done it on a gtb tbh, and there is a small cylinder shaped thing you turn which allows you to alter the length without removal.

Only ever done it on a gtb tbh, and there is a small cylinder shaped thing you turn which allows you to alter the length without removal.

Thanks, I did notice the cylinder shaped thing, but seemed seized on mine, so removed the split pin type retaining clip and moved the whole shaft, was a tad fiddley but managed it.

Thanks, I did notice the cylinder shaped thing, but seemed seized on mine, so removed the split pin type retaining clip and moved the whole shaft, was a tad fiddley but managed it.

It goes loose when you apply some vac pressure,the spring pressure makes it tight to move without the vac pressure.

to get the boost in sooner which way should I turn it?

to get the boost in sooner which way should I turn it?

Sooner will require you to shorten the rod length.

So, looking from above you will need to turn it clockwise.

So with vac pressure on actuator it's easier to adjust rod length also without removing c clip?

 

I had a look at the weekend from underneath and can't really see the c clip towards the top so didn't really want to try and remove it. Is it easier to access from the top?

 

To access from the top is removing the intake manifold required?

 

Thanks.

On the standard kkk, cut a 10mm spanner in half, and reached up from under .. 

sorry, forgot to mention I have one of xmans 'high spec' hybrid turbos (250) on.

I have a hybrid on now, i haven't adjusted it yet, so this is interesting to me.. My adjuster looks to be a circular ring, that im guessing you have to do with your  fingers. 

I adjusted my actuator yesterday, I just have to log it again now to see what it's doing.

 

I got at it from the bottom but this time I popped the little c clip off and managed to lengthen the rod after shortening it first. :peek:

To lengthen you need to turn clockwise from underneath as I found out going anti clockwise first which was much easier to turn that way. I managed to get the rod back to the same distance from the lock nut and then lengthened by about 2 turns. I also used a normal 10mm spanner to undo the locknut and could then adjust with my fingers as it's a fresh turbo.

 

 

I tied some cable wrap you get from new electrical cables around the c clip before putting it back on and tied the other end to the pipe as pictured so I don't loose it if I have to adjust the rod again.

 

I also changed my lower boost pipe at the same time because since having the turbo fitted i've had a slight boost leak (I can hear it when opening throttle). I thought it might have been the standard turbo coupler so changed it for a darkside coupler which is a much tighter fit but still experiencing a leak.

 

I had my turbo clocked when it was fitted, is it possible for it to leak from the turbo housing after being clocked? It's just that I never had the boost leak before changing the turbo and thought it might've been the coupler.

 

The ash aluminium hoses I ordered off ebay both the top 45° and bottom 90° boost pipes are only 150mm leg lengths and were both short so had to add 3" onto both pipes on one end.

 

Pancake pipe vs 90° 150mm leg length ash pipe:

 

Lower boost pipe once fitted:

Edited 22 November, 201510 yr by MarkPIX

OK why are people adjusting the waste gate rod what are u trying to gain

OK why are people adjusting the waste gate rod what are u trying to gain

You adjust it to meet your requested boost without overboosting or underboosting and maxing out your n75. Altering has small effect on spool but mainly to open vanes when running high boost.

Around 65-70pc is best at 4000 rpm this is n75 duty cycle value, it can adjust to meet requested boost.

Edited 23 November, 201510 yr by ajs_vrs

Using VCDS lite, is it possible to check whether the Turbo actuator rod is set correctly when running, if so what meas blocks  in the engine section do you check ?

 

DB.

Only asked due to owning a seat ibiza cupra pd160 on big turbo conversion and being on seat cupra.net before doing this was very thrond Apon and bot required or not safe depending on how much u adjusted

That's why I asked not something I was planning todo big turbo conversion is on the cards for my fabia vrs but not for awhile due to lack of funds

Only asked due to owning a seat ibiza cupra pd160 on big turbo conversion and being on seat cupra.net before doing this was very thrond Apon and bot required or not safe depending on how much u adjusted

That's why I asked not something I was planning todo big turbo conversion is on the cards for my fabia vrs but not for awhile due to lack of funds

Using VCDS lite, is it possible to check whether the Turbo actuator rod is set correctly when running, if so what meas blocks  in the engine section do you check ?

 

DB.

 

It's group 11, log between 1500-4000rpm in 3rd or 4th gear with full throttle. Actual boost should follow requested boost and duty cycle should be around 65-70%.

It's group 11, log between 1500-4000rpm in 3rd or 4th gear with full throttle. Actual boost should follow requested boost and duty cycle should be around 65-70%.

 

Thanks dara85.

 

DB