Hi has anyone ever used this tool 371139452598 eBay no to change there front wheel bearings . Looks like it can be done with the hub in situ ??

Any ideas

Regards Tony

Also any idea of what bearings to buy .. eBay has loads . Cheap and expensive ... !!

Edited 24 August, 201510 yr by serafumi

States in the advert can be used witb hub in situ.

Ref bearings you want branded bearings by SKF or Timken imo, big manufacturers that make quality bearings.

http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4&item=331616781559&category=174097&pm=1&ds=0&t=1440445084649

I would prob go for something like above.

I have the lazer version of this tool and it was very effective even on a hub and bearing that had been sat around for a while.

I didn't even have to resort to a massive breaker bar.

Go for the branded bearing especially on a VRS where the loading will be higher.

I have the lazer version of this tool and it was very effective even on a hub and bearing that had been sat around for a while.

I didn't even have to resort to a massive breaker bar.

Go for the branded bearing especially on a VRS where the loading will be higher.

Hi there did you do this with the hub still on the car ??

Regards Tony

Hi Tony,

             I had to change the drop link on this side anyway, so I ended up dropping the whole strut out. It may be more complex for you as you will have an ABS sensor to worry about.

I was worried that I would not get the tool aligned properly or be able to put enough force on it. Now I have done it I think you should be OK.

In theory you can get the driveshaft out by disconnecting the bottom balljoint from the bottom control arm and by winding the steering onto full lock.

Once the drive-shaft is out put a bolt back in and support the suspension to give you a stable base.

As long as you grase up the thread and nut on the tool an 18" bar will be maore than enough to see it done.

Hi Tony,

             I had to change the drop link on this side anyway, so I ended up dropping the whole strut out. It may be more complex for you as you will have an ABS sensor to worry about.

I was worried that I would not get the tool aligned properly or be able to put enough force on it. Now I have done it I think you should be OK.

In theory you can get the driveshaft out by disconnecting the bottom balljoint from the bottom control arm and by winding the steering onto full lock.

Once the drive-shaft is out put a bolt back in and support the suspension to give you a stable base.

As long as you grase up the thread and nut on the tool an 18" bar will be maore than enough to see it done.

I need to change a CV boot - you say bottom ball joint but I thought I had read you need to disconnect the track rod end (and caliper) as well. Mine will be well rusted so looking for the minimum to get drive shaft out of hub....

No just the ball joint needs to be disconnected to get the vv out

or cv even lol.