My car has suddenly started to shake when stationary at idle. But car drives prefectly fine once moving. The rev counter stay perfectly at 800rpm and the shaking stops if i rev the engine anything past 800 rpm. I also have a boost gauge and the needle moves slightly in time with the engine shake. Thought it could be the dmf at first but shake is the same wether clutch is pressed or not. I replaced front pcv but makes no difference. Changed cam follower. Tryed removing boost gauge but still the shake. Has anyone experienced anything like this? Must be somthing to do with the vacuum at idle if the boost gauge needle is flickering. But what could be causing that other than the pcv. If anyone out there can help i would be very grateful. Its abit embarrassing sat at the traffic lights shaking like your freezing cold in the middle of summer.

petrol or diesel mate?

Going the the thread title, I would assume petrol :P

Yeah petrol. Started about a month ago. Only thing iv changed is pcv. I changed plugs and coils about 6 months ago so cant be a missfire either. Im just stumped at what it could be.

I've been experiencing similar issues this weekend (same car/engine)

I ran diagnostics -albeit the Carista app, and it came back with knock sensor issues, I would recommend someone with VCDS or similar to have a look and go from there......

Have you managed to get water in the engine bay out of interest? (as I did!)

Not had any water in the bay as im aware. But il try and get it scanned see if im getting the same fault. Keep me updated. And il do the same.

Ok got a friend too check for codes with a little device hes got. And im getting two codes. One is rear heater core temp sensor, and 0.3 bar oil pressure switch.

I have something similar. Engine feels/sounds rough when i have the clutch at the biting point. Noticed this morning hence searching this topic.

2010 fl vrs petrol 18k miles.

If anyone suggests any remedy, please do it in ways I can understand i.e. idiot proof!! :p

A little different to mine then- I'm still getting a knock sensor code (G66 low circuit input) which, from what I understand means I got water in the connectors...I shall be spending a while removing the inlet manifold just to get at the sensors and then spraying contact cleaner into the connectors.

 

From what you've said, and looking into low oil pressures in the past myself, these engines do have issues with sludge bulding up in the oil pick up- would definitley be worth keeping an eye on if not recently changed- I am not sure if this would show the code with the Oil pressure switch however?

My car does burn oil quite fast which iv been told isnt a bad thing with these engines. Some seem to burn oil some dont. So if the oil level is dropping every 6 weeks (how long until i have to top up with oil again) maybe thts is whats causing the pressure code to show up. On the drive to work this morning i noticed its not so bad when the car is cold but gets worst once warmed up. And i found out tht if im rolling down i hill in any gear even neutral. Without the accelerator pressed. My boost guage sits dead still at -20 but asoon as the car hits 800 rpm, the boost gauge flickers again and the car shakes. Getting a vcd scan on saturday. Hope somthing shows up.

Jamkaw yours sounds more transmission related. Could be duel mass flywheel. Or a clutch release bearing

Yeah, mine likes to burn through oil too....about 6 weeks for a top-up on mine too!

 

If the issue is there when the engine is warm have you considered it may be the PCV or possibly a breather hose as I've heard they can case warm start issues?

I changed the pcv and checked the hoses once i noticed it idling funny but it made no difference. Since its been happening iv been constantly listening and checking things. Iv now noticed tht there is a scrapey rattling sound coming from the transmission. Not sure if its always done tht but u can only hear it if u put your head underneath the engine. Is any one out there that would no if a faulty dmf could cause an engine to act up at idle and shake? Revs do not move but boost gauge does move. Only thing is iv read a forum before where a guy had the exact same symptom as me and he changed clutch and dmf and god knows how many other parts and he never got rid of the engine shake as far as i no. Forum just came to and end with no conclusion. Like all the other forums iv ready about this bloody engine shake. The person who can finally resolve this problem deserves a medal.

I changed the pcv and checked the hoses once i noticed it idling funny but it made no difference. Since its been happening iv been constantly listening and checking things. Iv now noticed tht there is a scrapey rattling sound coming from the transmission. Not sure if its always done tht but u can only hear it if u put your head underneath the engine. Is any one out there that would no if a faulty dmf could cause an engine to act up at idle and shake? Revs do not move but boost gauge does move. Only thing is iv read a forum before where a guy had the exact same symptom as me and he changed clutch and dmf and god knows how many other parts and he never got rid of the engine shake as far as i no. Forum just came to and end with no conclusion. Like all the other forums iv ready about this bloody engine shake. The person who can finally resolve this problem deserves a medal.

 

This sounds like me.  Vibration/thorbbing at idle, but maintaining perfect 800rpm. Clutch feels rough when changing and if you dip the clutch slightly, you can feel lots of vibrations.  Gear changes are hard to make smooth.

 

Could I be looking at a new DMF? Is the alternator easy to remove for a novice?

So far i dont feel anything odd when changing gear or pulling away. Biting point feels normal. Only thing iv noticed is the rattling goes away when i press the clutch in. Maybe iv got early signs and its just going to get worse. As for the alternator question im not sure. Mine could just be a bearing gone bad. Thts why im not feeling anything through the pedals. It could of been like it since iv had the car just not noticed it since now.

Has anyone had there clutch and flywheel changed by a garage and what was the cost? be lucky if you can get it done for under a grand surely.

As a very rough guide- In my previous car (B5 Superb TDI) I changed the clutch and flywheel, the parts cost £300 roughly (Euro car parts trade price) and the fitting was the same again via a reliable indy garage. It was 8-10 hours of labour

According to euro car parts we'l be looking about £500 for the clutch and flywheel and then £300-£500 labour i suspect. If that is whats causing the shakey idle i think im just gunna have to learn to live with it. Or until my flywheel completely gives out. Still gunna get vcds onit at the weekend see if it picks anything up.

Does anyone no if you can adjust the idle speed with vcds? Just noticed that the rev needle sits at 600 rpm when warm. Unless the needles not properly calibrated. Maybe it could be as simple as setting it back to 800rpm that will make the engine run smooth again. Also read tht someone fixed an engine shake by changing an alternator pulley.

It very well could be the idle speed. Cus iv done research and a boost gauge should read arround 19-20 hg at idle but mine fickers arround 25 hg but when i rev the engine and get the gauge to move to 19-20 hg all the shaking stops and feels how it should feel. I really hope it can adjust it my self.

Just for anyone who has the exact same symtoms. The reason my car was acting up at idle was because of a severe case of carbon build on the intake valve. Cylinder 4 had a constant missfire at idle bacause it was so badly coked up. the amount of air the car put through at idle cud just not get into the cylinder causing the missire. Hence why when reving the engine the missfire would stop because more air cud get squeezed past all the carbon for a good enough egnition. Hope this helps anyone with iffy rough idling.

Would my local indy garage clean the inlet valves if I asked them too? I really don't have the tools or know how to dismantle the intake and do it myself :(

I'm actually having this very thing done by my local trusted indy garage today- shall let you know how it turns out!

Anyone got a 'How To' for getting access and cleaning the intake valves?