Hello,

 

So I though i'd come on here and get some people's oppinions on what might be the problem with my octavia

 

I just purchased this 2002 octavia TDI elegance, it has 171k miles and has full skoda history with it

 

however when you really push it, it does go into limp mode (no turbo at all)

 

it's not too bad, but it really annoys me and I want to fix it, the most common times it does it is going up a hill, mostly at motorway speeds, or if you really push the car (around 80-90mph)

 

you can also cause this if you really push the revs high ~~4000 in 3rd or so will put it into limp mode.

 

 

Now i already tried the Mr Muscle into the hot side of the turbo, and to be fair I think it did help, when i first started it was very difficult to move the actuator and now, it still requires a decent amount of pressure, however it's very smooth and moves nicely. I also did this twice, as i thought maybe i wasn't active enough the first time with moving the actuator during the 2 hours.

 

i've been reading up a bit, and think i'll replace all vacuum lines, since that's another cheap, easy thing to try, but i did wonder, since this has full skoda history would they not, just for maintenance have replaced the lines?

 

Also i plan on doing this tomrrow, if anyone has a little guide or something just to make it a little easier that would be really nice, or maybe a diagram, or just advice. It doesn't look like too bad of a job, all lines seem easily reachable and such, but anything that might help is appreciated.

 

 

apart from that, any other advice would be really appreciated.

 

regards, Matt

Not too sure on the other stuff, but I chucked 2 bottles of forte into a tank of vpower and then spent a lot of time thrashing the car, getting it as hot as possible. Mine now runs like a dream

 

Good luck with your vane issues!

Not too sure on the other stuff, but I chucked 2 bottles of forte into a tank of vpower and then spent a lot of time thrashing the car, getting it as hot as possible. Mine now runs like a dream

 

Good luck with your vane issues!

 

Thanks I might try that stuff, today i replaced all vacuum lines except the very thickest one that runs from the EGR to the N18? i think it's called. no difference at all

 

not sure what to try next

Edited 14 October, 201510 yr by Lixah

I think forte diesel turbo cleaner is under £20/bottle and in my eyes not a bad investment.

 

I also found that vpower resulted in less soot and less liklihood of limp mode.

Have you had a looked at the inlet side from the EGR on ?

Clean out any spongey gungey black stuff that you can ( probably best not to let it get into the engine )

This made a fair difference to mine.

I now run with some Dipentane ( https://www.dipetane.com/ ) added to the diesel.

 An Italian tune up every now and then helps too

Have you scanned the car for errors?

I THINK i may just have had a break through

 

So i was reading up on diagnosing limp mode on these engines and someone suggested MAF is a common cause.

 

OK, so, I unplugged the MAF and the car feels a lot SLOWER, but, the turbo is still spinning and i don't think it's going into limp mode

 

now I know what you're thinking, (I should notice a change like this ) however It's a bit more complicated than that, i only bought the car 2 days ago and i believe it's always had that problem since day 1.

 

Could it be possible that with the MAF plugged in I was getting an overboost problem all the time ? because i really thought the car felt quite quick for what it was (a 110hp tdi) but my last car was a V6 3.0 so and i've never owned a diesel before.

 

 

 

I think i'm not very good at explaining this situation, but I hope someone can understand what i'm asking. As I think it could be the cause. What I mean is, for myself it's difficult to tell if the car is down on power or not, since this is my first slow(ish) car, and it's also a diesel.

 

what's the max speed you should get out of one of these engines, on flat she seems to be running out of power at about 90mph??

 

is there another test/way i can check my thoughts on this?

 

help appreciated, Matt

Have you scanned the car for errors?

not yet, Im going to my friend's garage tomorrow he's got all the proper equipment and said he'll print me off any codes

not yet, Im going to my friend's garage tomorrow he's got all the proper equipment and said he'll print me off any codes

Personally I would scan the car first. If you suspect the MAF sensor, you could always try a 2nd hand MAF or swap one from another car just to see if the driving changes at all? Rather than jump in to spending lots on a new sensor. I might even have an old one in the garage.

Edited 14 October, 201510 yr by whitep

ok codes been read, it is indeed overboosting, so i guess that again points to dirty turbo

 

thinking about trying to clean it a third time

 

to clarify, should the actuator be in the up position, because when i cleaned mine i would push down on it, and it would return to the top position.

 

or should i also pull it up?

Edited 15 October, 201510 yr by Lixah

it should be up, I think it will always return to the top. I did my first octavias turbo a good few times, and you need to leave it for ages and top it up with mr muscle. And blank off that EGR too if you havent already.

it should be up, I think it will always return to the top. I did my first octavias turbo a good few times, and you need to leave it for ages and top it up with mr muscle. And blank off that EGR too if you havent already.

 

The blanking plate I ordered actually just arrived today, so i guess im going to do the Mr Muscle cleaning AGAIN, at least im an expert at that now!:p

 

and clean the EGR and fit the blanking plate, also just read that incorrectly installed vacuum lines could potentially be the problem, so ill just check that out while im there too, shouldnt' take a moment

 

and then hope and pray that it's fixed.

if you get 2 plates you can blank both ends of the EGR pipe and then its less work to do the mr muscle-ing. I tell you what you will never go back! I hope you dont get the engine light come up, if you do speak to Andrew at blacksmoke for the EGR off map.

Is this my engine's vacuum diagram?

 

because I can't seem to find mine specifically, if so mine is not the same as this!

 

Edited 15 October, 201510 yr by Lixah

ok so, here's how mine is setup, can someone confirm this is correct?

 

(sorry for poor drawing, but i think it correctly illustraits how it's setup)

 

 

 

to clarify, should the actuator be in the up position, because when i cleaned mine i would push down on it, and it would return to the top position.

 

or should i also pull it up?

sounds like you need to check the vac   turbo back to 6 initially   pipe and diaphram

sounds like you need to check the vac   turbo back to 6 initially   pipe and diaphram

I think I just wasted everyone's time with that one

 

I think THIS is the diagram of my car and it matches perfectly

 

but I will say that after giving the EGR a good clean and installing the blanking plate she is spluttering a LOT less, i particuarly noticed this when i first start the engine, 100% better, instantly starts on first crank, amazing

 

a few before/after pics just because

 

 

so replaced the N75 valve today with a brand new one, and made no difference at all.

 

i guess this all points to a faulty turbo, which is a shame, since it'll probably mean the end of this car

 

how much can i get a used but fully functional turbo for?

 

-Matt

Edited 16 October, 201510 yr by Lixah

Good god, thats really bad.... elephant mod in order I think.

so replaced the N75 valve today with a brand new one, and made no difference at all.

 

i guess this all points to a faulty turbo, which is a shame, since it'll probably mean the end of this car

 

how much can i get a used but fully functional turbo for?

 

-<att

Dont **** about, I tried and failed to fit a used functional turbo. New fitted should be circa 800 i think.

Edited 16 October, 201510 yr by whitep

Dont **** about, I tried and failed to fit a used functional turbo. New fitted should be circa 800 i think.

yeah, when i paid £480 for the car:(

 

i mean i guess the car is still quite functional, you have to take it up to ~4k rpm or 80-90 mph. but it really bugs me when things dont work correctly.

Edited 16 October, 201510 yr by Lixah

did you test the diaphram      

+1 for diaphragm. Might even be worth just swapping the actuator. But thats fiddly. And test for vacuum leaks.