I have a 2010 Mk2 SE Octavia fitted with an Amundsen+ radio and would like to fit a reversing camera. Anyone fitted an after market set up

Robert

Not a cheap job and will require VCDS coding.

 

Proper-looking OEM type camera - £90

-or-

Number-plate camera - £30

 

Controller (Oh bugger, can't remember. Maybe Mike Holroyd will remind me {we have the same})

 

Coding: beer

 

 

 

Remember: there was no Skoda OEM solution, so it's a case of patching it together from VW bits.

 

 

 

Edit: You're in the North East............Mike Holroyd is in that neck of the woods and is pretty much a Skoda Yoda on these things

How do I get in touch with Mike ?

Robert

That was one of the first jobs I did, and it's been worth every penny.

Maybe this will help...

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/294749-reverse-camera-fitted/

Yeah, am going to get a latch camera for the Scout, as I've now used the plate camera on Lil' Blue...........quite possibly the only Nissan 100NX with parking sensors and RVC

Thanks Mike got your PM with good advice.

Robert

.. available from a Finnish company called Media Exponent.

 

Mike, If you recall I actually got mine from a UK company but they (for some reason) couldn't get new stock, hence the Finnish alternative. Not that it makes much difference, to all intents & purposes they were the same.

Where do the cables from the luggage hatch end up? I have no desire to remove more trim panels that absolutely necessary

Where do the cables from the luggage hatch end up? I have no desire to remove more trim panels that absolutely necessary

 

On my FL hatch I ended up removing:

- both trim pieces from the inside of the boot hatch

- half removed the boot lining from the drivers side

- the A pillar on the drivers side

- lower dash panel on the drivers side (to access the rear of the fuse box to add a new fuse properly rather than with a piggy back)

- headunit facia and dash storage box

 

Wires ran from the boot switch, up the drivers side of the boot lid, through the rubber tube and split into two sets. One set went down towards the rear cluster for the reverse feed and ground. The other set went over the roof lining and down the A pillar to the fuse box and also across to the headunit.

 

I found that a single conductor from some 2.5mm T+E I had laying around worked very well to pull wires.

On the Scout (estate) my route was.......

 

remove roof trim by tailgate

remove passenger grab-handle and sun-visor, and A-pillar trim

using a long piece of plastic pushed the video wiring above the head-lining from back to front, then down the A-pillar, behind the glove-box to the RNS510.

pulled a switched power line back the same route

popped off the tailgate trim and fed wires to the appropriate location.

The wiring down the a-pillar was tie-wrapped to the existing loom, to avoid interfering with the air bags......this is also why I went above the headlining to run from front to back as the Scout has curtain airbags.

 

I ended up installing a relay to trip the power for the camera as the camera picked up the diagnostic function and destroyed the picture.

Two very helpful posts.

The parking heater retrofit seams like a walk in the park compared to this.

I can already feel the plastic tabs breaking......

No plastic tags to break Just take the usual care and patience. The job actually looks worse than it is, mainly because you're going from one end of the car to the other.

I already purchased a boot release camera and have done a standing test with it duct-taped to the boot hatch.

The picture was better than I'd hoped for, and if I ever get around to installing it, reversing will be much less stresssfull.

 

Does anyone have pictorials of the installation process? Mostly about panels and trim removal.

 

Tranberg, if that is the same camera as I took apart, be warned that the wiring for the handle switch probably won't fit and you'll need a gasket as it's taller than the original.

 

Haven't got pictures but there are these to help get the boot trim off, looks like the hatch and combi should be similar.

 

http://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk2/body/body_work/trim_noise_insulation/luggage_compartment_trim_panels/removing_and_installing_the_bottom_trim_panel_for_the_tailgate/

http://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk2/body/body_work/trim_noise_insulation/luggage_compartment_trim_panels/removing_and_installing_the_top_trim_panel_for_the_tailgate/

 

A pillar just pulls off.

B pillar top trim pull off - tricky to get back on due to the seatbelt height adjust.

Side panel in the boot needed three screws removing (one for nets, two for the luggage handle) and then pulls out the way.

IIRC, the trim along the bottom of the doors just pulls off and can be hard to get back on.

 

It's mostly pulling

If the original socket doesn't fit the new handle anyway, then I'll saw off the offending plastic, which is the part that makes the new handle to tall, as far as I can tell.

 

Tomorrow I will go to mechanic, who has kindly offered that I can take my car to his garage and do the install, while he will do his work, but be ready to offer advice and a helping hand.

I went similar to Mike, routed along the drivers side sill. The hardest bit was getting the wires through the grommet from tailgate to car.

 

I've noticed since that the cheaper versions (no insult intended) have the cable coming from *between* the mounting studs, whereas on mine (& Mikes) the cable actually comes out through one of the mounting studs.

 

As said previously, trims aren't a problem as long as you use normal care & take your time. :yes:

Tailgate to car grommet wasn't too bad, I pulled the rubber off each end making a straight run for the cables and then pried the two plastic ends out of the car for easier refitting. Just remember to go through all three parts 

 

The cables didn't fit through the metal cap so I had to cut two 5mm slits and bend the metal between them up to make space. The height issue isn't due to the socket, it's because of the distance between the two red lines I added to this image:

 

I think the Audi A1 has a deeper metal cap to fix this but instead I used some old rubber car mat around the edge.

Now I see what you mean:

 

Easiest way to get the cable through the rubber grommet is this -- pull the grommet off the retaining plastic plug at each end, and tape the cable to a straightened out metal coat hanger. Once the grommet is held straight, it's easy enough to route the hanger and cable through the grommet.

 

Amazing how often this still comes up as a useful tool

Easiest way to get the cable through the rubber grommet is this -- pull the grommet off the retaining plastic plug at each end, and tape the cable to a straightened out metal coat hanger. Once the grommet is held straight, it's easy enough to route the hanger and cable through the grommet.

You will then need to use a screwdriver to pop the grommet reatinign plug out of the bodywork at each end, and then reattch the rubber grommet to these whilst the plug is out of the hole. Once the grommet is back on the plug, simply press both ends into the holes in the foor and hatchback. Easy doing it when you know how to -- and a bitch of a job if you don't! What I've just posted here will save you hours of messing about.

Mike

When I said hardest that was relative, I probably should have narrowed it to the plastic plugs. First time tricky, after that easy enough. As my cable had no chokes or anything they went through the grommet easily.

The coathanger thing has been around as long as I can remember & it still beats many a special tool.

Edited 23 October, 201510 yr by ProfesorDeBuceo

The camera is now installed in the boot hatch and the combined power/video cable has come as far as the fixed part of the rear seat backrest, awaiting routing under the sill covers.

 

The ingenious mechanic sliced up a rubber hose, glued it end-to-end and slid it on the release switch metal cover's edge to act as shim/gasket.

Edited 23 October, 201510 yr by Tranberg

I can see the rearmost half of the towbar ball in the bottom of the picture, but the help lines are a not straight with the car's longitudinal axis, so I can't rely on them to go straight back. Adjustment seems impossible.

All that remains now is to find out if my CAN-bus adapter has an output for reverse gear engaged, because I chose to skip the connection to the reversing light and feed the camera from near the HU.

Light sensitivity is surprisingly good, and the stock revering lights are more than adequate.

My Italian PASER UNICAN CAN-adapter does have a reverse output, but it is only activated for 8 seconds the first time reverse is engaged after ignition is switched on, it doesn't do anything the following times reverse is engaged.

I will not buy a new CAN-adapter, I'll take the reversing signal from pin 28 in the brown plug: http://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20119&page=3

 

 

 

Edited 25 October, 201510 yr by Tranberg

if anyone is interested, i tried a simple setup for a foldable lcd monitor:

https://youtu.be/jzb61J8Lk3Y