I've just had a nasty with a PSU for a 4 port USB powered hub packing in. Problem was that the old adage ("too often all those things from Hong Kong seem to go wrong"),as in the PSU supplied was a 600mA unit ,and 4 hubs at USB spec need 2A + something for the unit hardware. Something that's only come to light after a bit of after the event research. So i've got two solutions- power 2(possibly 3) ports with a 2A 5V regulator from a 2A PSU ,or tap into the PC unused 5v HD connector rail .

Two  ports on one hub (taking Mouse & Keybd) off the PC would be enough, as at present I use 3. The other item is mains powered and the connection is a data link .

Other solution is to use one of the unused  HD 5v supplies to power hub . But I can see ( possibly misdirected) problems with conflict between the PC power supplies and data .

 

Is it a desktop or laptop? If it is a desktop could you not stick in a usb 3 pcie card like the one below ;

 

http://www.amazon.co.uk/CSL-express-controller-Interface-internal/dp/B00W4YFNAW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1445761412&sr=8-1&keywords=pcie+usb+3+card

Is it a desktop or laptop? If it is a desktop could you not stick in a usb 3 pcie card like the one below ;

 

http://www.amazon.co.uk/CSL-express-controller-Interface-internal/dp/B00W4YFNAW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1445761412&sr=8-1&keywords=pcie+usb+3+card

 

I got one of those, it doesnt work properly, sadly I had it hanging around for months before installing it, so I couldnt return for a refund.

Don't have ,or expect to get any USB 3 devices, i've just managed to get w7/64 drivers for my flatbed scanner which needs 500mA  (and what possibly killed off the PSU ). Son has just come to rescue with an old Belkin 4 port hub with 2.5A PSU (ABOVE SPEC AS 4 [email protected] = 2A ,and possibly 100mA FOR REGULATION CIRCUITRY). However, if anyone knows, the answer to "could I tap into the PC 5v rail to supply a hub without any conflict problems", it would be interesting to know if it could be done. PSU has capacity for four HDD ,and I use one, so plenty of spare capacity, but having worked on powerfed systems I wonder if some filter system might be needed on the 5v rail to prevent problems.

There wouldnt be any issues in using the PSU 5v power, it can supply far more current than a hub needs, just make sure when you make up the cable, that you get the + & - the right way round.

I use a Dlink USB hub which has one port supplying 2.5a which I use for charging the iPads on a regular basis. 3 years in use and no problems but is only USB 2.0 if that makes a difference.

 

http://www.amazon.co.uk/D-Link-DUB-H4-USB-2-0-4-Port/dp/B00006B7DA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1445856525&sr=8-2&keywords=d+link+4+port+usb+hub

I got one of those, it doesnt work properly, sadly I had it hanging around for months before installing it, so I couldnt return for a refund.

 

Although I haven't had that particular card, (as I did say "Like"), I have used this sort of card before in an older PC and worked fine and is a lot neater than having a hub (less wires - it can never be wrong to have less wires!). 

 

 

Don't have ,or expect to get any USB 3 devices

 

That doesn't matter - USB 2, 1.1 devices work in USB 3 sockets - in fact they are have a better power output than USB 2 sockets .

I have found that USB2 devices often work faster in USB3 hubs; they dont reach USB3 speeds, but 20Mbps is a big improvement on 10Mbps, and I have had some USB2 flash drives reach 25Mbps through a USB3 socket.

There wouldnt be any issues in using the PSU 5v power, it can supply far more current than a hub needs, just make sure when you make up the cable, that you get the + & - the right way round.

GG- Power bangs and Smoke, I do NOT need. I measure several tines to connect ONCE, (hopefully ), without bangs/smoke etc. 

Edited 27 October, 201510 yr by VWD

GG- Power bangs and Smoke, I do NOT need. I measure several tines to connect ONCE, (hopefully ), without bangs/smoke etc. 

  A properly designed PSU wont go bang, it will just shut down and then play dead for a few minutes after you remove the offending cable.

I NEVER trust a PSU to detect polarity, I add one polarity detector - a Diode in series.

Given my usual clumsiness I'd add a cable strain tie in there somewhere. Rather than risk faffing it up when rearranging/cleaning etc.

I NEVER trust a PSU to detect polarity, I add one polarity detector - a Diode in series.

 

Oh, I agree they wont detect polarity, but if you get it wrong and short it out, the overload detection should shut it down without damage.