Just bought myself a forge actuator with yellow Spring messaged r tech and they said that the forge actuators aren't the best can anyone shed some light on that , my cars got 3inch down pipe 2.5inch straight through piper back box, piper cross oversized filter, forge 007, 6 speed gear box conversion, Cupra r clutch, silicone pipes, Audi R8 coil packs, NGK BKR7E plugs and few more boys looking to get a custom stage 2 from R tech soon what Spring is recommended and what do you guys think of the forge actuator in general?

Cheers

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Are you talking about a recirc valve rather than an actuator?

No the turbo actuator

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Flog it on and get a Beach Buggy Turbo actuator. Actually, you need to think carefully about future plans. I have the 10psi BBT actuator on a standard K03S turbo. It's a bit of a sod to map so that you don't have an on-off switch for a throttle pedal, but R-tech are well versed with this characteristic.

 

When I went back to R-tech for the second time for fine-tuning, Niki wound off some preload and softened up the throttle response in the map. I set it up with the usual "three turns of preload, innit" and it made it a bucking broncho on part-throttle. Felt amazingly fast because the litlle turbo built up boost so quickly with several microns worth of pedal movement, but I'm an old fart and I like to be able to control my wheelspin accurately and not snap passengers' necks off, especially in this slippery weather.

 

If you were sticking with a standard K03S, and to be honest, 240-250bhp is plenty in these chassis anyway, then I'd get a replacement *standard* spec actuator from BBT. With the Forge actuator, Another thing to adjust and play with means another thing to leak and **** up in the future.

Flog it on and get a Beach Buggy Turbo actuator. Actually, you need to think carefully about future plans. I have the 10psi BBT actuator on a standard K03S turbo. It's a bit of a sod to map so that you don't have an on-off switch for a throttle pedal, but R-tech are well versed with this characteristic.

When I went back to R-tech for the second time for fine-tuning, Niki wound off some preload and softened up the throttle response in the map. I set it up with the usual "three turns of preload, innit" and it made it a bucking broncho on part-throttle. Felt amazingly fast because the litlle turbo built up boost so quickly with several microns worth of pedal movement, but I'm an old fart and I like to be able to control my wheelspin accurately and not snap passengers' necks off, especially in this slippery weather.

If you were sticking with a standard K03S, and to be honest, 240-250bhp is plenty in these chassis anyway, then I'd get a replacement *standard* spec actuator from BBT. With the Forge actuator, Another thing to adjust and play with means another thing to leak and **** up in the future.

Lol that's exactly what r tech said forge ain't great and opt for a BBT I did email BBT and didn't get a response but my future plans are front mount fit a silicone tip and stage 2 custom map from R tech and leave it as that. It's on a ko3s want to keep it like that for now and later on if the turbo goes bang fit a ko4 but that's in some years

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I'm not a Facebook user, but I think Dan at BBT is often on there and may reply quicker? Definitely get an oversized intake pipe, a decent intercooler and, of course, the R-tech map and it's a tried and trusted route to 240-250bhp and 285-300lbft with a K03S, if everything else is good.

Spoke to the BBT lot they say go with the 10psi or the 15 psi depending on what r tech feel is right so it's another call to r tech now before decided which one I need

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Post up what they say. For info, on just actuator pressure (10 psi, N75 disconnected), mine made 217.3bhp and 228.73lbft. Feel free to mention me to Niki or Ben on the phone. I'm sure they will remember me, as I keep taking biscuits for them.

Post up what they say. For info, on just actuator pressure (10 psi, N75 disconnected), mine made 217.3bhp and 228.73lbft. Feel free to mention me to Niki or Ben on the phone. I'm sure they will remember me, as I keep taking biscuits for them.

Yours made 217.3? Stage 1 or stage 2? And what mods I'm looking for 240+ for now keep it reliable but with a little kick lol then later on when I get really bored or if the turbo goes pop I'll give it the ko4.

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Yes, 217bhp on just actuator pressure, no N75, done as a test run to prove that the new actuator does what it is supposed to be doing. Obviously, it makes more boost and more go with the N75 plugged in; 242bhp/293lbft.

This explains a few things, when I changed my turbo after it blew the replacement had a forge actuator which works ok but it was on a 240bhp golf (early throttle cable car) and my cars only stage 1, its not as lively as it was but does hold boost well. Its never worried me as im doing the prep work listed on r techs site before going for a remap with them but if they aint a fan of it il have to put the original standard one on.

Best get my welly cooler on and sports cat n exhaust and give them a call

This explains a few things, when I changed my turbo after it blew the replacement had a forge actuator which works ok but it was on a 240bhp golf (early throttle cable car) and my cars only stage 1, its not as lively as it was but does hold boost well. Its never worried me as im doing the prep work listed on r techs site before going for a remap with them but if they aint a fan of it il have to put the original standard one on.

Best get my welly cooler on and sports cat n exhaust and give them a call

How does yours perform with the forge on?

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I think its fine, my car has issues but nothing the forge would cause, holds boost well, I have no gauge so its all how it feels, il be honest tho you look at the quicker stage 2 cars on this site and many have standard actuators, I not seen any with a forge actuator and if I didnt come by mine on my turbo id probably not buy one. Id say build the other bits first if your standard actuators working fine, im sure my car boosted more aggressive before I blew me turbo but the car was new to me and it only took me 3 weeks to blow it, im use to the power now and have never driven a standard vrs

I think its fine, my car has issues but nothing the forge would cause, holds boost well, I have no gauge so its all how it feels, il be honest tho you look at the quicker stage 2 cars on this site and many have standard actuators, I not seen any with a forge actuator and if I didnt come by mine on my turbo id probably not buy one. Id say build the other bits first if your standard actuators working fine, im sure my car boosted more aggressive before I blew me turbo but the car was new to me and it only took me 3 weeks to blow it, im use to the power now and have never driven a standard vrs

Could it be possible that u killed the turbo by over listing it hence why it pulled more before?

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The old turbo was on its way when I got it so ya could be right as I have heard things tend to get faster as they die