Yeah, I think the engine mount bolts directly onto it and there are 4 bolts going through the pump to engine. You might have to unbolt the pulley to get to those. Make sure you put something under the engine to support it or it will drop when you take the mount off.

 

Edited 15 December, 201510 yr by TMB

Could you advise on what parts I'm likely to need? Is it the full part one from the parts diagram plus the gasket that's required? Or is it a case of buying the water pump/impeller section and mounting that to part one, and replacing the gasket and re fit etc

The pump comes as a complete assembly, so you need that and the flange gasket.

 

The Skoda part number for the pump is 047121013R

 

And the gasket 047121228 (sometimes new pumps already come with a gasket).

 

You don't have to buy genuine Skoda parts of course. You can get decent pattern pumps which obviously would be cheaper.

Edited 16 December, 201510 yr by TMB

Also need to replace the 3 engine mounting bolts.

Also need to replace the 3 engine mounting bolts.

 

Never bothered when I did mine, but officially, yes.

Just Today had similar problem, mayo in expantion tank and oil cap suggests head gasket, anyone have a howto, not had it long and dont have a workshop manual YET!

Adrian

Just Today had similar problem, mayo in expantion tank and oil cap suggests head gasket, anyone have a howto, not had it long and dont have a workshop manual YET!

Adrian

I'd agree that HGF sounds likely, but you might want to do a coolant gas analysis (about £15) to make certain.

Thanks for that, it lost most of the coolant last night, got it home amd cannot find an external leak,(pump,hoses,rad),but refilled, went local .(5 miles), expantion tanks nearly empty again, still no external leak found.

It's the head gasket, get a new gasket from Skoda and get the head pressure tested and licked flat, crack on, it's a doddle.

Am I right in thinking that these engines are OHV like the old Mini!s?So no cambelt to worry about?

Any "special" tools needed?

Thanks.

Yes, you're right and no special tools are needed.

Am I right in thinking that these engines are OHV like the old Mini!s?So no cambelt to worry about?

Any "special" tools needed?

Thanks.

 

They have hydraulic tappets too. You don't need to adjust them if you're only changing the head gasket.

Am I right in thinking that these engines are OHV like the old Mini!s?So no cambelt to worry about?

Any "special" tools needed?

Thanks.

Hint - Get a big corrugated card box, write "Right, 1, 2,...8, Left" at intervals across it. As the pushrods come out, punch them into the card beside the relevant number, then you can be sure of putting them back in the right places.

Hi, iv managed to undo the pulley bolts and 2 nuts and 2 bolts that mount it to the block but I'm struggling to separate it, there is movement on the front side of the water pump housing but seems right towards the back of the engine, am I missing something? Or is the gasket just holding it on?

Managed to get it off turned out that the small piece of coolant pipe was quite hard o that's what was stopping it coming off new water pump is ordered also, so thanks for the advice guys!

Have a good Christmas, no doubt I'll be back for advice at some point!

Just one final bit!

Is the head Steel or Ali?  Do the head bolts need replacing?

Thanks

Just one final bit!

Is the head Steel or Ali?  Do the head bolts need replacing?

Thanks

 

The block, cylinder head and rocker cover are all aluminium alloy.

 

The head bolts are not stretch bolts and can be reused (personal choice). You must lightly oil the threads and under the heads of the bolts and nuts on refitting. Make sure you insert the bolts in the right holes as some of the bolts are different lengths.

 

Head bolt torque settings are:

 

Stage 1 - 20 Nm (15 lbf ft)

Stage 2 - Tighten 90 degrees

Stage 3 - Tighten 90 degrees

 

Head nuts:

 

20 Nm (15 lbf ft)

 

Bolt length guide...

 

Thanks thats really usefull info!

Never bothered when I did mine, but officially, yes.

Not replaced torque to turn stretch bolts?

Not replaced torque to turn stretch bolts?

 

Nah but the engine hasn't fallen out yet :p

Turns out the water pump/ gasket was knackered however turns out the rad is also now leaking so anyone know someone breaking a fabia 8v mpi? Tried radweld previously and it didn't cure it. The leak is coming from drivers side of the rad

New rad is less than £50 mate I wouldn't bother with a used one as they very often leak.

Well new rad is in. But ive still got some issues.

The cars had:

New water pump

New thermostat, sender and housing

New expansion bottle

New rad.

However the temperature warning light is on. The guage is sat nicely on centre (or there abouts). I've run it for 15 ish minutes in a few intervals to get it full of coolant which is now sat level

Can anyone advise me what else I can check?

The top rad pipe is warm but the bottom one still doesn't seem to get hot. It does seem to be having some coolant flow as it feels as if there's some pressure on it. Could it be the sender/ switch in the rad as I didn't replace this only cleaned up the old one. If not any other ideas?

Cheers

The warning light is low coolant not heat. Pull the connector off the expansion tank and connect the 2 pins together with a straitened paperclip.

That should stop the light and beeping.

What could also Be the cause for the cold lower rad pipe?

And would that trick reset it or just be tempory?