Anyone?

Lower rad pipe is most likely the thermostat or air lock unless someone has filled it with gunk and blocked the rad.

Connecting the pins will just stop the light yout will need to tape it up and tuck up out the way.

Also try bleeding the air out by removing the temp sender with the pressure cap removed

Yeah thought that for the lower rad hose however it's got a brand new thermostat which works as I tested it prior to instillation. Also being a new rad its gunk free as I cleaned all the rad weld out that was priviously gunking every thing up before I installed it.

Will try re bleading the air from the coolant system doing what you've advised.

Are you sure it's not normal? The lower rad pipe is naturally going to be cooler than the top one.

Well after running the car for quite a while the lower pipe is still not far off stone cold.

I'm still confused as to why the temperature light is on, what are the triggers for this just so I can narrow down my continual trouble shooting haha

Edited 14 January, 201610 yr by jakwadd

Coolant (level) light flashing sometimes isn't solved with a new expansion tank.  A workmate of mine has this ongoing, with new genuine tank.  Could be a dodgy connection at tank connector/ firewall connector/ back of Instruments module. Or a solder connection on the PCB of the cluster, where the male connector is soldered to the board, or a component on the PCB may have cracked. The first component in the signal path appears to be a SMD multilayer ceramic capacitor on the clocks I've looked at, and these can be prone to cracking under mechanical stress/vibration.

 

Most likely a bad contact where the (unsealed) loom connector plugs onto the cluster connector in my opinion, and easily inspected really.  I'm sure at least one poster on here has fixed his just by unplugging and reconnecting that connection.

My workmate isn't keen for me to remove his clocks to try it, unfortunately, or I'd have more evidence one way or another. The secondhand cluster I disassembled and looked at had immaculate PCB solder connections throughout, with zero evidence of any dry joints at the connectors.

Edited 14 January, 201610 yr by Wino

Don't worry about the bottom hose if the car isn't overheating. Check continuity in wiring loom from the coolant tank sensor plug and the dash.

The temperature light is actually low coolant level warning not overheating.

It's connected to the expansion tank which has 2 probes in it to detect if there is enough coolant in the bottle.

Pretty sure it can be coded out in the dash coding if it's not working properly.

Interesting, I reckon my workmate would be happy with coding it out.

The temperature light is actually low coolant level warning not overheating.

It's connected to the expansion tank which has 2 probes in it to detect if there is enough coolant in the bottle.

Pretty sure it can be coded out in the dash coding if it's not working properly.

Can it be coded out by itself? A friend of my Mum had this done and also lost the seatbelts, lights on and low oil warning beeps and was told by the garage that did this that they had to code all 4 in or out.

Watching this thread with interest as my son has the same model and 1.4 engine. It had/has a small amount of mayo in the expansion tank and a garage checked it and said the head gasket is leaking and the oil is going into the water (not the other way) Bought some radweld as this might cure it. 

 

Installed that tonight as per instructions and now we have no heat coming out of the heater even though the engine is up to temp, I am stumped?

 

Sorry for the thread hijack!! (PS coolant warning sensor faulty as well, will short this out)

Watching this thread with interest as my son has the same model and 1.4 engine. It had/has a small amount of mayo in the expansion tank and a garage checked it and said the head gasket is leaking and the oil is going into the water (not the other way) Bought some radweld as this might cure it. 

 

Installed that tonight as per instructions and now we have no heat coming out of the heater even though the engine is up to temp, I am stumped?

 

Sorry for the thread hijack!! (PS coolant warning sensor faulty as well, will short this out)

 

Radweld was the wrong move because the oil is leaking into the water, not the water into the oil, the heater matrix is now clogged with oil/water/radweld sludge and the radiator will follow. Flush it all out then get the head gasket fixed, there's no other way round it.

Edited 15 January, 201610 yr by sepulchrave

Radweld was the wrong move because the oil is leaking into the water, not the water into the oil, the heater matrix is now clogged with oil/water/radweld sludge and the radiator will follow. Flush it all out then get the head gasket fixed, there's no other way round it.

Cheers, to flush do you mean just drain the system fully and refill and drain again. then refill with water and antifreeze? Cheers Jason

Cheers, to flush do you mean just drain the system fully and refill and drain again. then refill with water and antifreeze? Cheers Jason

 

No, you'll need to flush it properly backwards and forwards, remove the thermostat and replace the housing then take the rad bottom hose off and shove a hosepipe up it and force clean water through the entire system until it runs clean from the rad, then repeat the process shoving the hosepipe into the rad stub until it runs clean from the bottom hose, do this a few times then replace the head gasket with a genuine TEMAC head gasket from Skoda, fit a new thermostat, fill system with clean water and run it up until at normal temperature, finally dump 2 litres of clean water from the system once cool and put 2 litres of G13 concentrate in instead. Done.

No, you'll need to flush it properly backwards and forwards, remove the thermostat and replace the housing then take the rad bottom hose off and shove a hosepipe up it and force clean water through the entire system until it runs clean from the rad, then repeat the process shoving the hosepipe into the rad stub until it runs clean from the bottom hose, do this a few times then replace the head gasket with a genuine TEMAC head gasket from Skoda, fit a new thermostat, fill system with clean water and run it up until at normal temperature, finally dump 2 litres of clean water from the system once cool and put 2 litres of G13 concentrate in instead. Done.

Brilliant, thanks for the informed response. 

I had to change the metal tube for the cooling system under the engine. It vas very rusted and leak.

 

 It cost me about 30 pound.