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The 1.4 tsi VAG Engine with specifically 122 BHP


obi604

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Hi all,

This is specifically in regard to the *** 122 bhp *** version of the 1.4 tsi engine found in Skoda, VW, Seat etc.

I know the 1.4 tsi can come in 140, 150, 160 and 170 bhp > but I am not asking about these ; )

So, in regard to the 122 bhp version - do these engines suffer from timing chain issues / stretching of timing chain ?

Or any other reliability issues for that matter.

Any help greatly appreciated.

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The Euro 5 1.4 TSI /TFSI (Turbo) 122ps engine has no particular faults that i have heard of, it is a pretty unstressed engine.

 

Even Twincharger 1.4 TSI 150ps like in the Seat Ibiza FR have no real fundamental faults with components.

 

There are 1.4TSI / TFSI engines that do have Fundamental Issues,

and the way VW names and number engines that are very different can confuse.

http://adamlewin.co.uk/vw-mk5-golf-tsi-engine-timing-chain-problem

http://revotechnik.com/support/technical/14tsi-twincharger-engine-issues

Edited by GoneOffskiroottoot
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The Euro 5 1.4 TSI /TFSI (Turbo) 122ps engine has no particular faults that i have heard of, it is a pretty unstressed engine.

 

Even Twincharger 1.4 TSI 150ps like in the Seat Ibiza FR have no real fundamental faults with components.

 

There are 1.4TSI / TFSI engines that do have Fundamental Issues,

and the way VW names and number engines that are very different can confuse.

http://adamlewin.co.uk/vw-mk5-golf-tsi-engine-timing-chain-problem

http://revotechnik.com/support/technical/14tsi-twincharger-engine-issues

Thanks. But looks like both the articles you linked are in regard to the TWIN CHARGED engines. i.e. The ones with greater than 122 bhp.

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I know that, that was an example of how saying 1.4 TSI can confuse.

I mentioned how i have not heard of Euro 5 1.4 TSI / TFSI (Turbo) engine issues.

 

Hopefully others will know about 1.4 TSI 122 ps 2008-2010 engines.

Which vehicle are you looking at?

Yeah, understand. It's confusing alright. Thanks for your input - appreciated.

I'm looking at a 2009 Seat Leon 1.4 tsi 122 bhp. I know it's not a Skoda, but same engine as Skoda uses etc.

I drive one and love the low down torque. I only do 6000 miles a year so don't need a diesel. MPG looks decent and tax is cheap.

Only thing putting me off are these stupid chain issues, I'm just worried I'll buy one and I'll be hit with a chain bill costing thousands.

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IMO With a 6/7 year old car then you get a trusted mechanic on your side, or someone in the Motor Trade you trust,

find a car you know is good or you think it is

and budget in doing a Big Service including the Timing Chain. New Fluids and Filters etc, unless you are finding a car from a previous owner that spent spent spent.

 

Lots of things can cost on a 2009 car,

you might not notice the windscreen small chips until it is a sunny day, and things like that.

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IMO With a 6/7 year old car then you get a trusted mechanic on your side, or someone in the Motor Trade you trust,

find a car you know is good or you think it is

and budget in doing a Big Service including the Timing Chain. New Fluids and Filters etc, unless you are finding a car from a previous owner that spent spent spent.

 

Lots of things can cost on a 2009 car,

you might not notice the windscreen small chips until it is a sunny day, and things like that.

Understand. But budgeting for a timing chain replacement would not be in my agenda. Timing belt, fair enough but replacing the timing chain seems a bit much.

Out of interest, how much would a timing chain replacement cost ?

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I'm not sure about the cost for a VW 1.4 TSI engine, but for my Astra 1.4 I paid just shy of £500 for a replacement chain, tensioner, oil etc. from a local independent (using genuine GM parts). Not that bad really when you consider the cost of having a belt done and then take into account the consequences of a failed chain.

I'm not aware of any significant chain issues on the 1.4 TSI 122, but you could do worse than check to ensure it's had regular oil changes. A lack of basic maintenance isn't good for a chain. Listen to it starting up from cold too, as any rattles resulting from the tensioner will be more obvious then. Rattling when it's hot points to the chain itself.

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I'm not sure about the cost for a VW 1.4 TSI engine, but for my Astra 1.4 I paid just shy of £500 for a replacement chain, tensioner, oil etc. from a local independent (using genuine GM parts). Not that bad really when you consider the cost of having a belt done and then take into account the consequences of a failed chain.

I'm not aware of any significant chain issues on the 1.4 TSI 122, but you could do worse than check to ensure it's had regular oil changes. A lack of basic maintenance isn't good for a chain. Listen to it starting up from cold too, as any rattles resulting from the tensioner will be more obvious then. Rattling when it's hot points to the chain itself.

Thank you Paul. Yeah 500 pounds is not bad. I'd almost prefer if it was a belt and just replace it every 60,000 miles.

It's actually hard enough to verify if oil has been changed though - especially between services.

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Also. A silly question.

So the chain is being replaced due to it wearing or being loose or whatever........ sounds like a design flaw really - but that's another story.

In regard to the replacement chain - is it the exact same one or is it replaced with a slightly different one - so the problem does not happen again.

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Wouldn't worry too much, dont be scared of forum stories as it's a very small minority. Just make sure the car you get has decent service history and the general hpi checks etc

Thanks. Yeah forums would nearly put you off buying any car at all to be honest.

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Thanks. Yeah forums would nearly put you off buying any car at all to be honest.

Exactly - the majority of forums are folk posting to say: "this has happened" or "has anyone else has problems with that?" Probably 95% negativity rates!

As above - make sure it has been regularly serviced and the correct filters/fluids have been changed when they should of been. Try to forecast and budget for a major service as and when you can. Cars these days are bulletproof compared to a couple of decades ago :thumbup:

Happy car shopping!

JRJG

Edited by Jrjg
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we've got a 2010 Octavia estate with that engine

It's still going well, no major issues - we had to put a lot of oil in it a few years ago but that's because we weren't paying attention to it regularly.

similarly it seemed to drink coolant last year until a garage spotted that the radiator had been damaged by something, got rusty and corroded so it had a leak - that got fixed and it seems to be fine now.

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we've got a 2010 Octavia estate with that engine

It's still going well, no major issues - we had to put a lot of oil in it a few years ago but that's because we weren't paying attention to it regularly.

similarly it seemed to drink coolant last year until a garage spotted that the radiator had been damaged by something, got rusty and corroded so it had a leak - that got fixed and it seems to be fine now.

Thanks for input. Good to hear no timing chain issues.

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Hi all,

This is specifically in regard to the *** 122 bhp *** version of the 1.4 tsi engine found in Skoda, VW, Seat etc.

I know the 1.4 tsi can come in 140, 150, 160 and 170 bhp > but I am not asking about these ; )

So, in regard to the 122 bhp version - do these engines suffer from timing chain issues / stretching of timing chain ?

Or any other reliability issues for that matter.

Any help greatly appreciated.

 

Some earlier engines had timing chain issues especially the more powerful twin charger (turbo + supercharger), piston / oil jet problems although this didn't affect the lower power version as much. 2008-10 were the worst years - later much better with revisions to timing chains/tensioner, pistons and oil jets(cools pistons but caused excessive oil consumption). Check for rattling noises other than for the first second after starting from cold(This is normal - also don't confuse with direct injection noise , also normal)

 

Most direct injection engines (including diesels & petrols , petrol worse though for some reason - inc VRS) can suffer from carbon on the valves depending on engine management, crankcase ventilation design and how it is driven  (However Inlet manifold very accessible if they ever need cleaning/walnut blasting). This is because with direct injection you don't have petrol washing over the valves. Later revisions much better due to engine management revisions and better oil management (revised oil jets, pistons and crankcase breathing)

 

That’s the bad , now the good:-

                                

>It drives well, its economical and is very refined

>Single Mass Flywheel  (google DMF problem)

>Externally mounted slave cylinder (some other manual engines have the fragile concentric version that needs gearbox removal to fix)

>Water cooled turbo

>Water pump fed by auxiliary belt (the diesel water pumps are fed by the cam-belt)

>No DPF or adblue

>This engine is very popular with engine tuners/chippers the plasma coated bores being especially robust

 

Looking after engine:-

>This engine benefits from very regular oil changes with the correct long life oil - always pre-fill oil filter and don't over-tighten (damages non return valve)

>When coolant changed ensure thoroughly bled - hot spots can cause problems

> Never turn engine backwards! - Be careful parking on hills, only leave in a gear that would turn the engine forwards in the car rolled down the hill (1st pointing down, reverse pointing up)

Edited by bigjohn
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Some earlier engines had timing chain issues especially the more powerful twin charger (turbo + supercharger), piston / oil jet problems although this didn't affect the lower power version as much. 2008-10 were the worst years - later much better with revisions to timing chains/tensioner, pistons and oil jets(cools pistons but caused excessive oil consumption). Check for rattling noises other than for the first second after starting from cold(This is normal - also don't confuse with direct injection noise , also normal)

Most direct injection engines (including diesels & petrols , petrol worse though for some reason - inc VRS) can suffer from carbon on the valves depending on engine management, crankcase ventilation design and how it is driven (However Inlet manifold very accessible if they ever need cleaning/walnut blasting). This is because with direct injection you don't have petrol washing over the valves.

That’s the bad , now the good:-

>Single Mass Flywheel (google DMF problem)

>Externally mounted slave cylinder (some other manual engines have the fragile concentric version that needs gearbox removal to fix)

>Water cooled turbo

>Water pump fed by auxiliary belt (the diesel water pumps are fed by the cam-belt)

>No DPF or adblue

>This engine is very popular with engine tuners/chippers the plasma coated bores being especially robust

Looking after engine:-

>This engine benefits from very regular oil changes with the correct long life oil - always pre-fill oil filter and don't over-tighten (damages non return valve)

>When coolant changed ensure thoroughly bled - hot spots can cause problems

> Never turn engine backwards! - Be careful parking on hills, only leave in a gear that would turn the engine forwards in the car rolled down the hill (1st pointing down, reverse pointing up)

Thanks John. Great reply.

The main reasons am going for a petrol over a diesel is because first I don't do enough miles to justify a diesel and secondly the patrols seem to be less complicated than modern diesels.

As regards oil changes, some people are just useless at car maintenance and don't even think about oil changes. I will just have to try and find one that is good.

What do you mean by "never turn engine backwards"

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Thanks John. Great reply.

The main reasons am going for a petrol over a diesel is because first I don't do enough miles to justify a diesel and secondly the patrols seem to be less complicated than modern diesels.

As regards oil changes, some people are just useless at car maintenance and don't even think about oil changes. I will just have to try and find one that is good.

What do you mean by "never turn engine backwards"

 

You can inadvertently turn an engine backwards when parked on a hill if the car rolls back slightly whilst in gear. Eg if you stop pointing up a hill in first gear , put the handbrake on you will roll backwards slightly as you release the foot brake. This can turn the engine backwards slightly. If you look above in this thread and click on one of the failures you will notice the person was parked on a steep drive!

 

On a slightly worn engine it doesn't always go well. It can release the tensioner or worse - think of pedaling  a derailleur geared bike backwards.

 

On most makes of car fitted with a cam chain the warning is part of the service manual (eg Chrysler)

Edited by bigjohn
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Thanks big John. Finicky aul things so they are ; )

 

Keep it simple bring back the old Austin/Morris  A series - er no cam chain rattled on these as well  :devil:

Edited by bigjohn
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