bigjohn

Are you trying wired or wireless? Also what version of Android are you running on the phone?

This is not a new issue. I had this with my Superb 2014 mkII 1.4 tsi when I first bought it nearly new in 2015. Basically that year I was on holiday driving through Europe and passed through Luxembourg and brimmed it with cheap petrol. A little while later when driving towards the Black Forest in Germany it popped up an engine management light. As the car was under the manufacturers warranty I arranged to pop into a German Skoda dealer who thoroughly checked out the car FOC. The chief engineer took me into the workshop and despite the language difference pointed to the fuel flap and said "Von clicke HALTE". Fortunately no permanent damage at that point and it's never recurred but since then I always stop at the first click when filling up on any car. I think even my old 2001 1.4 16v mpi Octavia had and EVAP canister.

I know you've mention compression is ok but is the camshaft turning when trying to start - aka cambelt issue?

Yup, the last petrol I had with an EGR was my old Octavia 1.416v MPI. It was a PIA. Basically a motorised valve attached to the exhaust manifold (what could possibly go wrong!!) with a metal pipe running through to the throttle body. When engine was worn it coated the throttle assembly internals with carp, All the petrol's do have Crankcase Breather Check Valve though as far as I know.

It was the report of smoke behind the dash. A resistor pack can die but will fail open circuit(low fan speeds not then working). A motor can fail (consuming too much current)/ or brushes wearing out (arcing) - this MIGHT generate smoke from the motor and/or resistor pack if in use as it'll be in series to the motor. To generate smoke etc you need highish current.

and the fan?

Re-check your installation. The original style bulbs are very primitive and bulb holder connectors are horrible. You may have introduced a short. Pull both number plate lights down from the body to check with a multimeter and if ok check if they work whilst hanging down. My 2014 always had horrible connections re number light bulbs. You also may have now blown a fuse!

With the mkII check around the plenum chamber especially where water flows down into the rear of the front wing. It's prone to getting blocked/ restricted and if it does water will find it's way in somehow. Also check behind the wheel arch liner where the rear of the front wheel arch meets the sills - it's usually full of all sorts of carp and can eventually rust through. Easy job undoing a few screws each side.

A petrol smell seems to be normal with a tsi direct injection engine. My previous Superb II 1.4tsi had the same owned from near new for 10 years. It's still going strong under new ownership and a rather high mileage. I'd suggest normal.

Code P2177 and cat damaged due to over fuelling says coil pack issue to me. The over fuelling happens when the offending cylinder is misfiring . Can be weather sensitive.

I was a real fan of 99 RON Tesco Green energy E5 petrol with my Superb 1.4tsi. Made a real difference to the way it drove compared to 95 RON E10 however it didn't really improve mpg much though but really perked up the way it picked up and made it way smoother. Now I've moved onto a Swace (Toyota petrol 1.8l gen 5 hybrid gubbins) to be honest there is no discern-able difference between the 99 & 95RON petrol. I generally stick to the 95 RON/E10 especially as the price gap between the two fuels seems to be expanding.

Usually there are two lives to a wiper motor, permanent live and switched live. I'd guess you have a broken wire where loom passes from the boot lid to the body inside the flexible conduit. I am presuming this is an estate as it has a wiper but twin door is notorious for broken wires (obviously no wiper) . Basically wire quality isn't great.

Unless this was a battery issue? Years ago my son was buying a 3 year old 2016 Octavia 1.2 that was displaying strange errors. It had been at the dealer a while and the battery was basically goosed. I insisted on a new coded in battery - that was back in 2019 and it's still going strong with no further issues. Sometimes the battery can suffer when stood on a forecourt for a while.

It's the modern way - the fuel gauge fronts gubbins that smooths out small changes so that fuel gauge won't move around wildly. SO if you put a small amount of fuel in it may not register. I've experience this with a few courtesy cars where I just put in a few litres to cover a relatively low mileage covered - I always get a receipt to show the dealer but the gauge doesn't always seem to move.

As the usual modern suspects have been dealt with:- Back in the day when I tuned engines (Essex V6 etc) radiator contrition was crucial. Just thinking re old fashioned first principals is there a chance the rad is partially blocked - eg has it had the dreaded "Mit Silikat" header tank issue in the past? How much is a new radiator?

With the fragility of the 7 speed - do you trust the statement "original quality"?

This can be normal if you have a healthy battery etc... Basically modern charging systems will back off re charging and wait until certain circumstances (eg overrun). All to save a couple of grammes re CO2 readings. I had a voltage sensing split relay on my previous Superb to control the running of a coolbox and it used to turn off at times especially on a long run(battery nearly full). I discovered using a high current device stopped this happening eg headlights.

Normally if it's a dragging clutch the 1st and reverse are affected first. I think it's still something to do with gear selection. Something amiss / out of line re gearbox mounts. Clearly gearbox will have been removed as part of the clutch change. Take it back! Hold assist could be confused as to which gear you have selected. What does the gear selected display show when in different gears? Gearbox oil levels correct?

I think it's a case of removing glove box - fan motor etc is behind

In my experience a 3rd party warranty won't cover dampers- wear and tear gov they will say.

Take it back - you've bought some else's problem car? Suspicious an oil change was done a week before you bought it, however make sure the correct oil filter has been used and has been fitted correctly (not over tightened etc). The oil change might have been done to disguise a problem though. Pressure test required hot and cold. Is it definitely an oil pressure warning- not level? Does it show low oil pressure when engine is cold, and hot. Any difference?

I think my Toyota based hybrid gubbins uses a different mapping altogether - Miller cycle? Can’t complain as it feels lively but still gets mid 60’s mpg.

Yup, with my old Superb II 1.4tsi it noticeably ran better on Momentum 99 from Tesco but made little difference to the economy. However with the replacement Swace (Toyota Corolla TS gubbins) there is no discernible difference with the higher octane petrol.

Codes need reading before you start playing the parts replacement roulette game. I'd be suspecting coil packs - that can be affected by heat on a hard run. If these are changed it's also worth fitting new plugs. However I have encountered similar symptoms though with a friends 1.8 tsi Yeti. Loosing power under load/ uphill. It was the High Pressure fuel pump.