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New Fabia Owner - Need some help :)


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Hi All, 

 

Just brought a dirt cheap Fabia 1.9 SDI 

 

This is my third Skoda (Citigo & Mk2 Fabia VRS before) and I've been active on this forum before so I know you guys can help me out ;) 

 

Couple of things that I need answers on...

 

  • The doors dont actually need my key to unlock, you can use any key (or anything that will turn the locking barrel round), what would cause this issue? I'm pretty sure the central locking still works and it unlocks/locks all doors when I turn the barrel.
     
  • It judders slightly when braking, I think this is warped discs/low pads (I have got new pads but need to fit them) but I was unsure if there was another common issue in Fabias that this might be? 
     
  • Floating to the left - When I let go of the steering wheel the car seems to veer of to the left quite noticeably. I thought this might have been one of the tyres as it had worn on the inside so I had it changed but it is still doing it. My next guess is the tracking/alignment of the tyres? 
     
  • Light steering? The steering on the Fabia seems ridiculously light, which can be quite fun at motorway speeds... are they known to be light or is my power steering playing up? 

 

That is all...for the moment

 

Thanks :) 

 
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On issue 1, I had exactly the same problem on a Polo I previously owned. I opened it with a teaspoon and a spatula once :)

 

It was down to dirt on the key over the years building up on the pins in the lock barrel. It meant they got stuck in the open position as the dirt prevented the springs pushing them back down.

 

I took the lock apart, cleaned all the crud out, reassembled and it was fine since then.

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On issue 1, I had exactly the same problem on a Polo I previously owned. I opened it with a teaspoon and a spatula once :)

It was down to dirt on the key over the years building up on the pins in the lock barrel. It meant they got stuck in the open position as the dirt prevented the springs pushing them back down.

I took the lock apart, cleaned all the crud out, reassembled and it was fine since then.

Awesome, I shall give that a go :) thanks

Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

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Be careful when disassembling the lock.....

 

It's very easy to end up with pins all over the place and then spending hours getting everything back together correctly. I speak from experience... :)

 

Thinking about it, one quicker way of doing it might be to try to clean the inside of the lock out without disassembly. Try a fine brush with some WD40 or similar in the barrel first.

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Be careful when disassembling the lock.....

It's very easy to end up with pins all over the place and then spending hours getting everything back together correctly. I speak from experience... :)

Thinking about it, one quicker way of doing it might be to try to clean the inside of the lock out without disassembly. Try a fine brush with some WD40 or similar in the barrel first.

I was thinking this as I am a pro at taking things apart. Not so putting them back together though...

Thanks for the suggestions

Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

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id change both the pads and the disks and bleed some new brake fluid the whole system.

 

as for the drifting, if the tyre was worn on the inside then get the tracking checked asap as if it is out and you have put a new tyre on the same thing will only happen again after a while

 

andy :)

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oh also the weight of the steering can be adjusted via VCDS (on the vRS atleast). I adjusted mine and now it feels a bit heavier, still not great but I guess it was a car designed to be driven around cities and parked easily :)

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id change both the pads and the disks and bleed some new brake fluid the whole system.

 

as for the drifting, if the tyre was worn on the inside then get the tracking checked asap as if it is out and you have put a new tyre on the same thing will only happen again after a while

 

andy :)

i'd suggest that the fronts will be identical to mine(Haynes suggests the calipers are, so I'd say very likely) . If so , be very careful taking out/replacing the caliper holding bolts, or you'll strip the thread on the holder. I had to have one done and the place I had it done, mentioned that he sees a lot of VAG cars for the same reason.

ETA- If you check out FABIA  problems (sticky), you will find that on he rear (if drum brakes) , the rivet pin on th bottom of the shoes tends to stick/sieze, even at low mileage ( possibly the reason on mine at 71K AND 8 YEAR OLD). Only problem I found was pistons tending to push out when no pressure on them. re assembly was a piece of cake, but i used a bit of tape to hold the top spring whilst I buuilt them back up, and removed (obviously ) before fitting the drum. if you get new shoes, I'd advise a new set of holding spring washers at least.

Edited by VWD
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Gave it a quick go over with WD-40 today but still no luck. 

 

The key doesn't even seem to fit in the passenger side door lock so I am now thinking that maybe the barrels have been changed at some point? 

Also the central locking doesn't seem to work, if these cars even had central locking? 

 

Any ideas how easy it would be to get new barrels in the doors and fix the central locking? I guess I would need to have two different keys then, one to open the doors and another to turn the car on? Don't want to spend too much on getting new barrels for the ignition as well.

 

Cheers

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Welcome to the slow lane.....

 

1. If your locks won't free up with WD40 in situe then the next step is to get them out of the doors and perhaps try an ultrasonic cleaner if you have one to avoid stripping them down and loosing the parts. You could try dipping them in a weak acid, my passenger side lock was completely seized @ 10 years old.

2. The brake judder can be caused by the inside of the disks completely corroding up, due to lack of use. Totally agree with the comment on the back brakes , one of my retaining pins snapped resulting in brake failure.

3. The tracking can be difficult to keep correct, early cars had thin track control arms. Also its worth checking for play in the TCA ball joints, bottom ball joints and console bushes. A weaving sensation at motorway speeds can be cause by broken (typically rear) springs.

4. Power steering pumps can be coded to less assistance by VAG com , they come coded to maximum assistance. Early cars had a plastic cased steering sensor that failed quickly and this took out the pump. Typically pump life 65-85K IMHO.

 

Good luck

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Update on the steering...

 

When I accelerate (most noticeable in 1st/2nd gear) the car wants to go to the left, I can feel the steering wheel pushing against me but when I lift off the power to go to change gear the steering becomes light again, making me swerve to the right a bit. 

 

Not sure what this could be related to? 

 

Tracking, Power Steering, something else??? 

 

 

Also still no luck with the locks :( 

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In terms of your locks, it may not have factory fitted central locking if both front doors have key entries. Someone on ask a tech may be able to work it out from your VIN.

 

The handling under acceleration, then the first thing I would check is the console bushes, followed by track rod ends and ball joints. But you might also find that one driveshaft has play in it , although you would expect it to be quite noisey at that point.

You can also check the wheelbase is identical side to side, the difficulty there is pulling up with the front wheels completely striaght.

 

In general they do tend to point left unless you get the tracking done regularly and have a 4 wheel alignment done.

 

Some idea of the mileage it has on it would give an idea of what is likely to be worn.

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