Awh, shucks, I don't know, though.

 

With the interest rate situation being what it is, the financing of a new one isn't a problem - AO were even offering HP to pensioners providing proof of income.

 

My concern was,  of course, eco based !

 

But I have to say, the  existence of a "Configuration code" raises some interesting possibilities. 

 

What is it precise purpose ?

 

AEG's implementation of some sort of IP protection or "Closed shop" on the repair business ?

 

Or does it  actually configure i.e. enable other boards, designed for slightly different specifications of model, to be set-up and operate with your machine.  If its the latter, then the possibility exists to invest my current machine with eternal life

 

Quick question for you GG - given your experience, what's the likely source of the carbon dust I had to wipe-off part of the main PCB ? From the carbon brushes or is there some sort of brake on the drum ?

 

On washing machine construction and quality control. I was amazed at the number of bolts and screws that were missing and not through my efforts. For instance, the top of the machine has an "H" shaped mild streel strengthener which lies horizontally across the top of the machine and bolts to the top of the side panels. About 25% of the screw holes in the strengthener which had corresponding screw hole drillings in the top of the side panels were missing any sort of securing bolt or self-tapper. German quality control, tell me another ! - and, decoding the serial number, I think my machine was made in early November 2002, when the machines were still being made in Germany. (After that point a fair bit of the Electrolux group output was moved to Italy and then, later, to China. Wink, wink, say no more).

 

 

Nick

Edited 4 February, 201610 yr by Clunkclick

Awh, shucks, I don't know, though.

 

With the interest rate situation being what it is, the financing of a new one isn't a problem - AO were even offering HP to pensioners providing proof of income.

 

My concern was,  of course, eco based !

 

But I have to say, the  existence of a "Configuration code" raises some interesting possibilities. 

 

What is it precise purpose ?

 

AEG's implementation of some sort of IP protection or "Closed shop" on the repair business ?

 

Or does it  actually configure i.e. enable other boards, designed for slightly different specifications of model, to be set-up and operate with your machine.  If its the latter, then the possibility exists to invest my current machine with eternal life

 

Quick question for you GG - given your experience, what's the likely source of the carbon dust I had to wipe-off part of the main PCB ? From the carbon brushes or is there some sort of brake on the drum ?

 

On washing machine construction and quality control. I was amazed at the number of bolts and screws that were missing and not through my efforts. For instance, the top of the machine has an "H" shaped mild streel strengthener which lies horizontally across the top of the machine and bolts to the top of the side panels. About 25% of the screw holes in the strengthener which had corresponding screw hole drillings in the top of the side panels were missing any sort of securing bolt or self-tapper. German quality control, tell me another ! - and, decoding the serial number, I think my machine was made in early November 2002, when the machines were still being made in Germany. (After that point a fair bit of the Electrolux group output was moved to Italy and then, later, to China. Wink, wink, say no more).

 

 

Nick

 

The config was actually a pleasant surprise, I deleted a speculative suggestion it might be EEPROM based from an earlier post, as it is something I have seen done elsewhere, but hadnt happened with WMs by the time I stopped fiddling with them. The idea is, you stick the same board in a range of machines, and program them to match the machine type - so machines with different mechanical capabilities have the same electronic parts - - the savings of mass production. So for example, the 60XX Series machines might have different program cycles, 6050 might have Silk setting, 6030 a 30 minute quick setting, and the budget 6010 have neither - but they all use the same controller board.

 

As for carbon, the brushes are the obvious source of the carbon, and the mostly likely to need attention in the near future if they are the source!! It could also be "normal" fine dust that has worked its way into the machine over the years.

 

The screws issue is a mystery, unless the machine has been repaired in the past - and a lazy mech didnt replace all the screws

The carbon dust issue was frankly, weird, as there appeared to be no burning or scorching associated with it and all the surface mounted components were absolutely untouched apart from a fine layer of dust.

 

And the carbon had been laid down in a very particular pattern which varied on each side of the board.

 

For instance on the reverse of the board, it had adhered ONLY to certain solder tracks in the vicinity of the inter-board communications sockets which were surface mounted on the other side of the board. It looked as if these solder tracks had been hand applied after the production process which made the PCB, in the usually seen over-inking way that's used when boards are hand modded post production. But there were no jumper wires, or such like to, which might substantiate that.

 

Again, there was no scorching or bluing or melting of the surrounding area on the PCB.

 

Usually, if this was characteristic of a fault occurring during operation, you'd have expected that the solder tracks would have  heated and part melted on successive occasions, attracting any free floating carbon dust and then embedding it in the solder surface before it cooled down. But this wasn't the case because the carbon  wiped straight-off when I applied a cleaning tissue to it.

 

My second thought was that it was debris left over from the board production process. However, a mirror image pattern of the carbon dust that covered solder tracks was deposited on the  matching spot on the inside of the plastic PCB enclosure, in the shape of a ragged "L" - suggesting the deposits were laid down during operation with the enclosure lid shut. And you can't see the underside of the board when its installed in its plastic enclosure, even with the top lid open.

 

My guess is that the board had been either modded or repaired - possibly a board that had marginally failed quality control on the production line and then had been hand-restored by over-inking in solder certain PCB tracks that hadn't taken  in production . And, presumably, it slightly heated during testing or first use and threw off the solder flux as carbon onto the enclosure ?

 

 

As to the missing bolts and screws issue on the structural part, this is the first time I've ever had the lid off this machine and I've never had an engineer near it.

 

Machine was bought from John Lewis.

 

I'm beginning to think that these two issues speaks volumes about the quality control processes both in the factory and in retail !

 

This isn't the first time I've noticed missing screws and securing parts on South-East Asian/Chinese electronics which I've been compelled to disassemble. Talk about making a case for "Bring on the robots".

 

Perhaps a topic for one of the  off-site "Money Saving Expert" forums ?

 

Nick

Edited 5 February, 201610 yr by Clunkclick

Being ever so topical, I was thinking someone could register the domain name "Wonky leaks" (Overarching web-site "Wonky  bits"), with the object of getting disgruntled consumer reports of faulty WMs. , , ., Of course, the somebody would then have to take-up permanent residence in the consulate of the Duchy of Grand Fenwick . . . hmmm ?

 

 

Next job, the Bosch Dishwasher, but not until the "Wetness" engineer has attended next week. And then the expansion vessel on the central heating, the air trap, the motorised valve and the finally the programmer. And that's before we even get to the bathroom floor, tiling and fittings. Rewarding this domestic living , , I'm told.

 

 

Nick

Have you considered just using a rock in the local stream/river?? I understand it is still very popular in many parts of the world.

Its so popular out there they've made it dual purpose, including using it on each other !

 

Anyhow, the water company  techies attended PM - apparently it needs a new SC and its going to take 20 days to a month before the work can be carried out.

 

Of course, in the meantime, I will be boiling the drinking water pro-temp and adding an aqua tab , as I've been doing for the last two weeks. Lets hope there's no contra- indications with the condition that laid me low last year, or the meds !

 

I think I'll take the opportunity to  replace the cold water washing machine supply tap, as, with the increased pressure and flow (Consequent on my recent SC adjustments)  that is leaking copiously when used, from the valve spindle, and the spindle is glandless, so there's no scope for tightening.

 

I'll also see its possible to get a new cartridge type rubber valve for the cold supply on the kitchen monobloc, as that seemed too readiliy provoked into "Water hammer"  and "Non-issue" by the air bubbles presently in the  compromised supply. That said, I may have my work cut-out finding a cartridge type valve with a rubber lozenge washer as its all ceramic valves nowadays. That may mean a new monobloc @ £40.

 

 

Nick

Edited 9 February, 201610 yr by Clunkclick

I have been stock-piling rocks, as I read that they will be the main source of anaesthetic after a nuclear war.

Edited 10 February, 201610 yr by GentleGiant

You'll have a rockery then !

 

And if you plant it out, you'll have a shrubbery, which may grant you permission to carry on with your sacred quest !

 

And if you want a long-lasting anaesthetic, I can highly recommend cardiac stenting of the circumflex artery, the enduring effect of which is to make each and every awakening from nightly slumber feel as if you're recovering from one !

 

Good news is that I just got notified of an the appointment for the SC replacement - this week. Hurrah !

 

Better sooner than later, as I've had the courez vites on and off the last two weeks and its difficult to know whether its pollutants in the water, my precautionary chemical treatment of same or a return of my recent complaint.

 

 

Nick

Edited 10 February, 201610 yr by Clunkclick

Plants, PLANTS!!!

 

The only reason I havent concreted the back garden is because it would crack and let weeds through - and then I would have to do some "gardening".

 

PLANTS!!!!

Sorted, again !

 

The Affinity boys came along this morning and changed the external SC. Did it in about an hour and a half. Very good job.

 

Now the water comes out of the kitchen sink tap like exhaust gases out of the reheat on an Olympus 593 - 4 bar pressure and 30 liters a minute flow i.e x 10 what it was !

 

Looks like it was a faulty SC and no other leaks.

 

In actual fact the flow rate is so great now that, with the tap at full tilt,  its inducing harmonic vibration in the kitchen tap !  Not that you want it at full tilt because it now fills a one litre measuring jug in 2 seconds ! Practically blasts the jug out of your hand !

 

So, when the engineers come back to do the post-repair pressure measurement etc, I think I'll ask them if they can turn it down just a smidgen. My previous testing indicates that  10-12 litres a minute will be more than adequate for the washing machine, on rinse cycle,  to fill within the 10 minute limit (On my measurements, took about 3 minutes to fill the tub at that flow rate) and for there to be sufficient pressure to re-pressurise my central heating system which runs @ 2-2.5 bar (2.5 bar at present because of a broken expansion vessel - my next job to do).

 

Deffo, I have to replace the washing machine cold supply tap 'cause that's leaking like a good'un now that the pressure and flow are up.

 

That SC must have been leaking at a fair old rate to lose that amount of flow.

 

Glad that is done.

 

Onwards and upwards.

 

 

Nick

Edited 12 February, 201610 yr by Clunkclick

Nick- re #37- that must be a standard water board letter., as it's alost identical to the one I received when I complained about pressure and flow.Strangely pressure was "within limits" at the boundary, but at certain times of the day ,the pressure is too low for my shower to operate .

 

And then something similar when I complained about the volume of black muck my filter jug rejects. the black muck is an algae that only reacts to air and light, and can be stopped by washing out tap necks with a mild bleach/Milton. Now my question which they fail to answer is if our water is so pure, how can an Algae survive their treatment ? I firt complained about this black muck to Env health at council, but without investigating any other council premises, our Env Health went straight to the Water board, who ( surprise surprise) replied that there were no issues with muck in any other premises and that it must be down to our old supply.

I thought water was treated with ultraviolet to kill algae and any other bacteria which made it past the treatment process?

Nick- re #37- that must be a standard water board letter., as it's alost identical to the one I received when I complained about pressure and flow.Strangely pressure was "within limits" at the boundary, but at certain times of the day ,the pressure is too low for my shower to operate .

 

And then something similar when I complained about the volume of black muck my filter jug rejects. the black muck is an algae that only reacts to air and light, and can be stopped by washing out tap necks with a mild bleach/Milton. Now my question which they fail to answer is if our water is so pure, how can an Algae survive their treatment ? I firt complained about this black muck to Env health at council, but without investigating any other council premises, our Env Health went straight to the Water board, who ( surprise surprise) replied that there were no issues with muck in any other premises and that it must be down to our old supply.

Just to put you straight, despite my initial suspicions, the pressure in the mains and the flow rate, based on my observations taken at the washing machine cold supply tap, appeared and appears to be OK .

 

Even with the old  leaking SC in place, I was able, by winding the SC fully open (Which I first did two weeks ago) to get  a maximum of 4.2 bar pressure and 12 litres a minute at the washing machine. This  exceeded the OFWAT legal supply minima of 1 bar and 9 litres a minute and was more than adequate for continuous and uninterrupted operation of my washing machine., which I established required a minimum of 0.5 bar and 7.5 litres a minute to operate correctly.

 

With the new SC in place (And no leaks) I'm now getting 4 bar and 30 liters a minute which, again is way in excess of the legal minima, allows correct operation of the washing machine,  but which, unfortunately, is way too fierce and will require turning down - hopefully the engineer will do that when he comes to verify the pressure.

 

Simple maths tells me that the SC leak could have been at a rate of 18 litres (30-12)  a minute. I would have thought that a leak at that rate would have caused subsidence. But, nothing showing to date. Its possible that the leak in the SC formed a partial/intermittent  hydraulic lock and restricted the water loss (Perhaps its designed to do that ?), that may account for the "Water hammer" and "Dry tap" |I was experiencing at the kitchen cold tap during the latter stages of the SC failure and might explain why there hasn't been subsidence.

 

I'm fairly confident that replacing the external SC has stopped all the leaks, although I have yet to visually check it and only time will tell.

 

Interestingly they appear to have fitted a larger surface inspection door on the new SC and I presume that reflects the fact that the enclosure is larger altogether - scope for a water meter installation at some later date ?

 

As to residual crud in the "Communication" and "Supply" pipes, once the repair was completed, I was asked to put the kitchen tap on full bore and let it run for a couple of minutes to clear any residual debris out - and nothing did. All my drinking water goes through a jug water filter, so if there was any debris coming through it would soon be visible. Checking on the on-line water authority leaks map, the nearest extant reported leak is about half a mile away, so, plenty of scope for dilution of contaminants there.

 

If I had any doubts about water quality, I suppose I could always ask Affinity to do a water quality test and, failing that, have an independent test done.

 

In slower time, I'll check the bottom of the cold water tank in the attic space, as that always will show evidence of what debris has been dragged through the system and the last time I cleared it out was 20 years ago.

 

The WM has just completed its first wash following the SC repair and all seems to be OK.

 

 

Nick

Edited 13 February, 201610 yr by Clunkclick

I thought water was treated with ultraviolet to kill algae and any other bacteria which made it past the treatment process?

That won't deal with contaminants entering the water mains from leaks downstream of the treatment works.

 

Nick

I am surprised they didnt fit a meter when they replaced the SC; any excuse around here - new pipe?? You get a meter; repair SC?? You get a meter,

I'd agree with you, especially in the East of England.

 

I tried to have a look at the new installation last night, cause I was getting alternating "Water hammer" /"Harmonics"/"Zero flow" under flow in the kitchen monobloc , but I couldn't get the plastic lid -up - there's no aperture for conventional inspection cover lifters. Only, what appear to be a couple of allen key (5mm ?) points each side - cam operated locks from the lid into the body.? 

 

Anyway I'm not going to fiddle with it until the engineer has been round to test the pressure and the flow.

 

The cover is about twice the area of the one it replace, with enclosure to match, so perhaps, something like this, in plastic :-

 

http://www.drainageonline.co.uk/Mechanical-Fittings/Stopcock-Chamber.htm?gclid=CLmZh-uT-soCFQUOwwodBZsFug

 

In which case, it probably would accommodate a water meter. I gather that if there is a water meter, that the SC that is supplied with this type has a different chuck for the key (Female allen key socket), which  has a dedicated plastic key supplied which is usually stored inside the enclosure - hence they may lock the lids using the allen key operated cams to prevent the SC key from being nicked - no worries on that score, 'cause I have a couple  of male allen key car sump drain plug sockets that would probably fit !

 

Any how, unlike the South-West of England, a WM would hold no real horrors for me. In fact, I'd probably save  money,

 

At the moment, I'm probably paying over the top,  given that the standing water charge is based upon a calculated usuage which used to be linked to the rateable value of the property - me, one bedroom house, with one occupant in a road with a majority of multi-occupancy 3 - bed houses (I had the RV category reduced in 1990s when Community Charge came in, because I was originally allocated to a band which meant I was paying the same CC as a small 3 bedroom house !).

 

The most recent problems (i.e. post external SC renewal) with the cold supply on the kitchen monobloc seem to vary with the flow rate.

 

So that, at present, during the low water demand times, I get a mains supply flow of 30 litres a minute, @ 4 bar and the monobloc exhibits  all the symptoms referred to above. During the high water demand period (16:00 - 19:00 weekdays and 12:00 -16:00 Sundays), I get a flow rate of 15 litres a minute @ 4 bar, and the water flows from the kitchen monobloc normally.

 

I wonder if there is a pressure stabilising device built into the new SC ? Because, with the old SC I used to get pressure and flow variations according to the general flow demand in the area at that time of day (See my previous posts). Of course, those earlier  variations may have, in part, been reflecting the fact that there was a sizeable leak.

 

Nevertheless, I think the existing 1985 kitchen monobloc, is worn to buggery and beyond its serviceable life (Despite me rotating the positions of the hot and cold valves and applying a bit of calcium grease) and that the increased pressure and flow from the new SC has just brought that front and centre. As, in addition to the worn valves the joint at the base of the spout is also leaking (Despite me fitting a new "O" ring and greasing), I've opted to buy a new kitchen monobloc  A nice new Bristan unit, rated at 0.5- 11 bar, arrived AM, but I'll wait fitting that till  the Affinity engineer has been.

 

Perhaps, the Affinity engineer will be able to turn the flow and pressure down by 25% (Especially if the new SC has a variable pressure regulator built in, although that might be contraindicated for economic operation of the local water grid) - to get it in the  supply range of 3 bar, 10-12 litres a minute , which would be good for the kitchen monobloc, washing machine and re-charging the pressurised central heating system  - 4 bar and a max of 30 litres a minute is just too fierce !

 

If this is not possible and I still get "Water hammer" with the new monobloc fitted, then I understand, I may need to fit a pressure reducing valve (@ £30-£40 a shot for a WRAS approved one (+ 2 x isolating valves ?)) in the cold supply line downstream of the kitchen SC.

 

Also there is a further problem with pressure and flow balancing in the kitchen monobloc mixer which I haven't yet addressed. The technical authorities on-line seem to indicate that installers, should as far as possible, try to balance pressure and flow in dual supply mixer taps and showers and state that for power shower input the ideal pressure is 1 bar. If that stipulation also applies to unforced mixers then it will be mightly difficult for me , even with a PRV installed (Most of which have a minimum output pressure of 1.5 bar (And a maximum of 6 bar)),  to achieve, given that the hot supply in the kitchen is @ 0.5 bar, 6 litres a minute and the cold supply is currently 4 bar, 15-30 litres a minute.

 

Too many unquantified variables to determine how this is going to go at the moment. Need to speak to a real water engineer, not just the techies that do the water pressure/flow readings.

 

Postcsript

 

This web-page seems to give some guidance on acceptable delivery  water pressure/flow for different devices:-

 

http://www.harwoodandassociates.co.uk/faqs/guidance-on-flow-rates-for-taps-showers-and-baths/

 

I see kitchen mixers are rated at any pressure up to their own equipment specification and an ideal flow-rate of 8 litres a minute. No wonder I'm getting harmonics and hammer @ 15-30 litres a minute.

 

Nick

Edited 15 February, 201610 yr by Clunkclick

A water meter isn't as scary as people think, the major will save money.

Even after 10 years of increases we pay less for a 3 bed house (and 2 young children who leave taps running) than we did in our studio flat which didn't have a meter.

I would have thought, that , on the average, the water companies will be making money on meters,  otherwise why instal them ?

 

I have rels in the West Country, who were previously resident in the home counties and one of  their first comments on moving down there was about the significantly greater cost of water through a meter. Yet, despite the west being the place   where all the rain falls, the east of the country has the cheaper water supply rates.

 

Perhaps that, or similar, is why Dave has been summoned to  Paris this evening

 

 

Nick

Edited 15 February, 201610 yr by Clunkclick

Pretty sure there's legislation covering meter installations on all new builds and under certain conditions.

http://www.ofwat.gov.uk/mediacentre/leaflets/prs_lft_101117meters.pdf

Meters help people become aware of how much they use, so areas with frequent hose bans/low supplies in summer months will be keen to install them.

Certainly we panicked when we got our first metered bill through, seeing usage in 1,000's of litres. Makes you more conscious of wasting water.

Well, at the moment, for me,  its all supposition as to whether a WM has also been fitted during the SC replacement. I won't know for certain until the pressure/flow measuring man comes round and lifts the lid.

 

The "Water hammer" effect I was getting on the kitchen sink monoibloc has now progressed to no water at all being issued at the kitchen sink from the cold supply, so I've asked if the engineer who is scheduled to measure the pressure/flow can attend a bit earlier - so, he's coming sometime tomorrow (They can't say when).

 

The washing machine cold supply (Which also has a spur off of  it to feed a garden/car wash hose) is fine - no water hammer. But that supply appears to come-off of the mains UPSTREAM of  the under sink SC that feeds potable water to the kitchen monobloc. Consequently, I've had to resort to filling my saucepans from this source.

 

So it appears that the cause of the water-hammer is occurring only in the length of pipe between the under sink SC and the monobloc in the kitchen - my guess is a failing washer/valve in either of those devices. And, if I was a betting man, I'd say it is a worn monobloc that's the cause and that the water hammer has been provoked by the change of the external SC and subsequent increase in pressure.

 

The only other take-off from the mains,  the ball-valve feeding the cold tank in the roof,  is operating OK and making no noise - silent as silent night.

 

So if the mains pressure is 4 bar at ground level, the water pressure to the cold tank in the roof will be somewhat less - my estimate about 3.4 bar (Based on the fundamental rule that water pressure increases at the rate of 1 bar for every 32 feet of head of water - so if, by virtue of its elevation,  the head is 20 foot less at the cold water tank in the roof than at ground level,  the fall in pressure at the roof tank  will be 20/32 X 1 bar = 0.625 bar i.e. 5/8 of a bar and the net water pressure being supplied to the cold tank would be 4bar-0.625bar, approx. 3.4bar).

 

So 3.4 bar hasn't been sufficient yet, over the last few days, to upset the cold tank ball-valve - we wait in hope.

 

First things first, we'll get the pressure and flow measured at the external SC and if necessary get it tuned down to about 3 -.3.5 bar, 10-15 litres a minute, which with the usual losses across the supply pipe from the external SC to the under sink SC in the kitchen should give about 2.5 -3 bar at the kitchen sink - more than enough to provide a decent flow at the kitchen monobloc,  re-pressurise the central heating and ensure that the washing machine fills within the 10 minute limit.

 

 

I hate to think what would be happening now if I were at work and had to cope with this same domestic problem, requiring, as it does under the current method of organisation, 3 separate attendances by the water company bods - one engineer visit to diagnose and book the job, one repair team (x 2 bods) visit to replace the leaking SC and finally (Assuming all goes well) one engineer visit to verify water vessel integrity, water pressure and flow. I would have had to have taken 2.5 days leave within two weeks, just to get this far. Not really 21st Century service is it  (Even though the workers are busting a gut to provide it)?

 

That said, the god awful standard of British domestic plumbing installations doesn't help.

 

And I was surprised to learn that a UK merchant bank, Morgan Stanley, has a major interest in Vieola (T/A Affinity).

 

I'm fairly sure that if it were an establishment interest in jeopardy, Dave would be on that plane to Paris PDQ.

 

No cynicism there, you understand.

 

 

Nick

Edited 16 February, 201610 yr by Clunkclick

So, what has been "Learned" today, apart from the fact that the water company post-repair assessment may be regarded as optional in some quarters.

 

The engineer from affinity turned-up.

 

At my request, he lifted the inspection cover lid on the new  SC  installation (Big screwdriver is all that is required) and reported "No leaks" and, after prompting, told me that the pressure/flow at the SC was non adjustable and could only be set at the pumping station ! He advised that the local supply was set to about 4 bar.

 

After, I had a quick look and all seemed dry, so, I cleared some residual mud in the bottom of the chamber, re-positioned the internal  polystyrene seal at the neck so that it now fully protected the chamber from any loose debris falling in and  shut the lid firmly. There seems to be no way of securing it shut.

 

Should the replacement monobloc I intend fitting still be plagued with "Water hammer" then I'll probably be into fitting a PRV territory as may be the case with the separate supply for the WM, which is also exhibiting some "WH" when the solenoids close and whose mains supply appears to by-pass the under-sink SC in the kitchen.

 

Oh joy !

 

 

Nick

Edited 17 February, 201610 yr by Clunkclick

Back  on topic to the washing machine.

 

In reading a post on the "Whitegoods forum" concerning the diagnosis and repair of a faulty main PCB on a later mark of AEG W/D, I came across a reference  to these guys :-

 

http://www.qer.biz/servReps.htm

 

Turns out that the  surface marking of main boards with black carbon dust is very often mistaken in AEG machines for an electrical component failure, when all it is in reality is the local air convection currents depositing carbon  dust  from the motor on anything vaguely warm e.g. the main PCB. But that doesn't mean to say there's not an underlying fault.

 

The post I read says this firm will, on receipt of your board,  diagnose, repair and advise on the cause of the fault, returning the repaired board by Royal Mail or DPD (£3 extra). They do repairs for the trade as well, and somewhat cheaper !

 

I looked-up my main board in their database (Complete with clear photos of each board), as I am still having intermittment trouble with some of the buttons on the control facsia, either going dead or operating the incorrect function This company want £47 (Inc All) for repair of this EWM 2000 board - in fact its a Zanussi board. This is a lifesaver. As when this board was available to buy (Its no longer around), they wanted £130 for a new replacement.

 

I prepared to soldier on with existing board at the moment, and wait for it to fail more substantially, as the faults its got still allow the main program selector programs to function error free, Its just the "Tweeks" to the main programs provided by the buttons on the fascia control panel that sometimes go on the fritz.

 

And, I suspect that the cause of the fault is not as obvious as it appears.

 

I'm convinced now that that the digital values held in the control board components on my machine are being corrupted by a dodgy DC rectifier on the main board (The two are directly connected to each other (Digital data and power) and the front control board draws its power from the main PCB. The fault manifests as an inability of the machine to enter the diagnostic mode (Error code "Err" in the digital display), as well as fascia button, malfunction which only occurs after a wash/dry cycle has completed - there are no faults during the wash/dry cycle or when the machine has just been switched on and is waiting for a program to be selected and the "Start" button to be pushed.

 

At the moment, I am able to correct the faults using a combination of  the programme selector and diagnostic mode.

 

Firstly,running the machine for a couple of seconds on a programme and then switching off (after it has completed a wash/dry cycle) seems to restore access to diagnostic mode.

 

And then, on  entering  diagnostic mode, doing a board "Reset" (With the program selector on position 23 (Short spin), depressing and holding down the fascia buttons 1 & 2 (Prewash and soak) will, if the  "reset" function is actuated, provide power to all the 7 unlit control lights on the RHS of the fascia, so that they flash in unison, confirming completion of the "Reset".Turn program selector one place clockwise to "OFF",  job done. The buttons that temporarily have lost or had their functions corrupted are restored).

 

 

Nick

Edited 21 February, 201610 yr by Clunkclick

For a starter for 10 and just to get me into the swing, I just replaced the washing machine cold tap.

 

That seems to be leak free now and just to prove the point I stuck the washing machine on the 3 rinses in a row programme to "Dynamically test" the tap's water security. Three rinse cycle completed, no leaks. 

 

Amazing how the right tools make all the difference to the "Diificulty factor" of a job. I got myself one of those Irwin quick-release stillson wrenches (8") and that in combination with an adjustable wrench, mole grip and a dab of plumbers grease had the job done in 15 minutes.

 

However, and there's always a however, I found that the under kitchen SC wouldn't completely turn-off the water to enable me to start the job. So, I thought, good job the external SC's been recently replaced, I'll turn the water off there. Went outside, lifted the lid and the SC  ENCLOSURE WAS FULL OF WATER. Awhhl ! Not again ! Handbags !

 

So, back on the 'phone again to Affinity, to report leak again (Or another one). Lets hope its not the Supply pipe.

 

That's enough rehabilitation therapy for today.

 

If all factors continue to be nominal tomorrow, then I'll have a go replacing the leaking kitchen monobloc.

 

Just as well I didn't stop boiling the drinking water in the interval since the last engineer's visit

 

Personally, i'm amazed that the blokes that replaced the external SC don't appear to have access to kit i.e. ultrasonic or fibre optic that couldn't have pin-pointed the exact position of the  leak at first pass.

 

Nick

Edited 22 February, 201610 yr by Clunkclick

I honestly cannot believe what an epic drama this has become and how long it's dragged on for.

I honestly cannot believe what an epic drama this has become and how long it's dragged on for.

 

I heard the BBC are considering it as  the replacement series now W&P has finished.