Changing the battery has probably done a brute force reset of the short and long term fuel trims.

 

To really get to the bottom of this, you need to see what the oxygen sensor is reading, and what is happening to the short and long term fuel trims, as this will give a guide to what is going on.

 

At a guess it sounds like it may be running in a rich condition on the long term fuel trim, and the short term trim is trying to compensate and not succeeding.

 

If you have no access to VCDS over there, do you have a workshop that may have access to generic trim reading equipment?.

yesterday i mapped the car back to original and now the car  runs smother and has no jumpy idling but the asr light still has poped up once and the fault code p0102 came back

 

so  today i will order a new maf once again 

 

just cant understand how my brand new bosch maf just lasted about 3-4 weeks

 

unless it has something to do with my old battery if it was damaged when i tried to start my friends car with starter cables

 

his battery drained my battery instantly so we think his battery was brokend inside due to the cold weather  we had this winter here in sweden

 

and maybe my battery was damaged from that because it was after i tried to start his car my problems began

 

and after my battery died completly some weeks ago i put a brand new one in

Edited 16 March, 201610 yr by rsdanne

Depending on how many miles you have done since the returning of the map to oem, it may be a little early to be totally confident, because each time either the car is mapped or the battery is disconnected, the car goes into a short period of self learning of trims, and during this phase it will run on generic trims. Once it learns how you drive for a short period, it will move over to the learned trims.

 

Because of this, if the maf has a fault, then the new learned trims will be corrupted and the car running will be affected, as it moves from the generic trims.

 

Just as an aside, have you checked the fuel pressure regulator is functioning correctly?, as a vacuum leak here could also give you running issues, as it technically is unmetered air in the system.

Depending on how many miles you have done since the returning of the map to oem, it may be a little early to be totally confident, because each time either the car is mapped or the battery is disconnected, the car goes into a short period of self learning of trims, and during this phase it will run on generic trims. Once it learns how you drive for a short period, it will move over to the learned trims.

 

Because of this, if the maf has a fault, then the new learned trims will be corrupted and the car running will be affected, as it moves from the generic trims.

 

Just as an aside, have you checked the fuel pressure regulator is functioning correctly?, as a vacuum leak here could also give you running issues, as it technically is unmetered air in the system.

thanks for your answer  the first day (yesterday) after i remapped it back to original the car ran fine with no jumpy idle or anything but the asr light poped up once and after i restarted the car it dissaperared

 

but i got a fault code p0102 low signal air flow 

 

and today the car has had no problems or issues it has ran good all day and no asr light has popped up

 

but if you look at the rpm you  can see that it wanders a little bit not much  but still it moves a little up and down

 

so today i ordered a new maf again and will return the other one  as they want to check if its brokend before they can give me my money back on the guarantee

 

so will install it tomorrow and hopefully i have a car that works like it should again

so this morning i installed my new maf and drove for a bit and i felt  good  no issues

 

but when i parked  the car and had it on idle to see if it were steady on the rpm 

 after about a minute or 2 it started to jump on the idle again

 

so i guess my old maf wasnt brokend after all

 

so tomorrow i will change the hose for the fuel pressure regulator and the hose on top of the dump valve and also the dump valve get rid of the plastic one  and put a metal one in 

 

what size in mm hose is it for the fuel pressure regulator???

You can get 2 faults on the fuel pressure regulator, the common one is for the vac hose to crack letting in air, but the not so common on is for the diaphragm inside the unit to split, which means a rich condition at idle.

You can get 2 faults on the fuel pressure regulator, the common one is for the vac hose to crack letting in air, but the not so common on is for the diaphragm inside the unit to split, which means a rich condition at idle.

thanks for your answer 

 

i have tried to twist and turn the vacuum hoses to see if something happens if it leaks when i do that but nothing happens when i do that

 

the car also drinks alot of gas according to the instrument it takes 1,5 liters per 100 kilometer in city driving sometimes up to 2 liters per 100 kilometer when driving  in the city with many redlight stops

This youtube vid is not the best out there, but it covers most of the bases well in terms of practical tips, and may give you some pointers to rule stuff in or out -

 

Hope it helps

now the car runs good all the time  the asr light only popped up once after installing the new maf

 

and i have also changed the vacuum hose from the fuelpressure regulator to the inlet manifold 

 

and i also tested my dumpvalve and it leaks air so im waiting on the hand computer with a new stage one map and a new aluminium dumpvalve hopefully it will arrive tomorrow

Sounds like you are starting to win now, good luck with the map.

Sounds like you are starting to win now, good luck with the map.

lets hope so =) hoping the package with the new dump and stage one map arrives today and that it works good

now i have installed the new dumpvalve and the stage 1 map

 

the car runs realy good now and its nice to hear the dumpvalve working

 

first i had to take the dumpvalve apart because the 2 rubber rings where the piston is didnt seal properly 

 

so i had to take it apart and make sure that the rings were  put in correctly and i also smeared the grease around and then put back the piston and change the spring to the yellow one 

 

after that it was good to go and it works like it should

 

i also installed my boostgauge again on the dumpvalve hose  but it just gets up to the 0 when i have full boost so i guess it must be broken

yesterday i noticed  that the car started to stutter on low rpm again under 2000rpm it can start jump on the idle and even when driving on low rpm i can feel a stutter

 

but only sometimes and then the car can run great again 

 

so sick of this

 

the car ran fine for over a week after  i remapped it and yesterday the jumping idle and stutter on low rpm  came back 

 

maf is brand new bosch 

 

coolant tempsensor is new 

 

the fpr hose is new 

 

the sparkplugs are new 

 

volkswagen workshop put 3 new coilpacks in and tested all of them and there were no faults  there

Edited 30 March, 201610 yr by rsdanne

So maf and air is good, spark is good, readings off temp sensor are ok, no air leaks. What are you left with? Fueling and throttle I suppose, and you say it's using a lot of fuel? Do you know anyone with vcds that can help you do some logging?

So maf and air is good, spark is good, readings off temp sensor are ok, no air leaks. What are you left with? Fueling and throttle I suppose, and you say it's using a lot of fuel? Do you know anyone with vcds that can help you do some logging?

well after i remapped it to back stage 1 and put the original injectors back its not as thirsty anymore drinks about 1,2liters per 10 kilometer in the city  and about 0,75 liters per 10 kilometers on the freeway

 

they changed 3 of my coilpacks  on warranty and  the 4th one were changed before and they were all tested by a volkswagen workshop and there were no faults there they said

 

and a strange thing i have noticed  is that when i remap the car then the car runs great without any issues for over a week

 

i have 2 diffrent stage 1 maps in the handcomputer that my tuner has sent me so i can read fault codes and try these 2 diffrent stage 1 maps and see if one of them is better for my car

 

so i remapped it again yesterday and now it has no issues  again but i guess the problem will come back in some days or  maybe a week like last time i remapped it

Edited 31 March, 201610 yr by rsdanne

Yeah it takes the ecu a good few ignition cycles and couple hundred miles for it to recognise some problems. Can your tuner help you with logging?

Yeah it takes the ecu a good few ignition cycles and couple hundred miles for it to recognise some problems. Can your tuner help you with logging?

unfortunately he lives so far away from me  thats why he sent me the handcomputer so i could remap it my self i guess i have to send it in to a workshop soon to figure this  irritating problem out

Yeah I think you need some logging and searching through the numbers. Would save you money in the long run instead throwing more parts at it.

finaly i got some good news 

 

the maf that i bought new and had to send back for them to inspect were something wrong with so i got my money back for that one

 

and also after i remapped it the last time it only had jumpy idling tvice in a week and after that it stopped

 

and now the car runs great with no issues for over 2-3 weeks

 

so i guess it must have been the faulty maf  and maybe the car had to be driven for a while for the ecu to get back on track again