got some annoying problems  with my octavia vrs 2002 it has jumpy idle and sometimes its dying

 

 and sometimes the asr light comes on and when i restart the car it goes away

 

and now i got 2 faultcodes when i scanned it

 

1.fault code -16486 air flow circuit mass or volume low input

intermitent

 

2.Fault Code - 18011 - Internal Control Module: Failed Self-Test

Hello

 

This could be a problem with your MAF sensor wich not is working wel. What happen when you take the connector off your MAF sensor?

Hello

 

This could be a problem with your MAF sensor wich not is working wel. What happen when you take the connector off your MAF sensor?

actualy i have just installed a brand new  original bosch maf for about 3-4 weeks ago

Is the vehicle remapped at all as the 18011 code suggests a fault code read error in the ECU

Is the vehicle remapped at all as the 18011 code suggests a fault code read error in the ECU

yes it is remapped at stage 3 with a bigger turbo and bigger injectors and 3 inch downpipe with 200 cell cat

Do you have access to VCDS?, As you have already replaced the MAF, then the next step after checking the connector to it is sound, would be to do some logging of fuel trims to see what is actually happening at the engine itself.

Do you have access to VCDS?, As you have already replaced the MAF, then the next step after checking the connector to it is sound, would be to do some logging of fuel trims to see what is actually happening at the engine itself.

thanks for your answer  i dont have acess to vcds unfortunatley  =/

Is the problem after Remapping? Iff so let them look at the remap or put the previous mapping back and look what happens.

What intake system do you have? Is the MAF secured properly? Vibrations or wobbles could have nackered the new one...

my intake system is original and the maf is properly installed 

 

the only things  i have changed is the downpipe and 200 cell cat the injectors the turbo and a remap has been installed

 

whats irritating is that the car can be driven without any issues almost an entire day sometimes and then out of the blue it starts jumping on idle  or the asr light can come on 

 

and often it can be jumpy on the idle and  if i drive it for a little bit the car drives normal again its like the car has a mind of its own

As it is that random, when did you last change your coolant sensor, if ever?.

As it is that random, when did you last change your coolant sensor, if ever?.

CTS could be a good shout.

Jumpy idle can also be airflow related, check pipework too.

It still sounds maffy to me though, especially with asr light coming on...weirdness. cts can do very strange things too though, potentially cheap fix too.

As it is that random, when did you last change your coolant sensor, if ever?.

i changed it when i put on my new turbo about a month or 2 ago

CTS could be a good shout.

Jumpy idle can also be airflow related, check pipework too.

It still sounds maffy to me though, especially with asr light coming on...weirdness. cts can do very strange things too though, potentially cheap fix too.

cts ? what is that

im about to downgrade to the stage 1 map again soon and install the original injectors to see if the problems goes away

 

if it doesnt it must be  the maf or something else i guess

Edited 25 February, 201610 yr by rsdanne

cts is the coolant temp sensor, which you've replaced, was it a genuine one?

 

How is your pipework by the way?

cts is the coolant temp sensor, which you've replaced, was it a genuine one?

 

How is your pipework by the way?

yes it was a genuine  one i will  remap it to stage 1 soon and install the original injectors to see if that solves the problem if not  i think it must be the maf  very strange though that a new maf breaks so quickly

yes it was a genuine  temp sensor will remap it back to original and install the original injectors next week i guess and see if that solves anything if not 

 

i guess it must be the maf 

 

strange though that a brand new oem bosch one dont last more then a month or 2

It is, have you tried any runs with it unplugged?

no i havent tried that but i dont think it will run any good with it unplugged  because it runs good most of the time

 

 and if i start the car and it has jumpy idling from the start it goes away after i drive the car for  some minutes and then the car  can go without any issues for a long time

i seem to have solved the problems now yesterday my battery died so bought a new battery and since i put the new battery in the car hasn't had any issues with jumpy idling and the asr light hasn't poped up

 

can you realy get these fault codes and asr light that comes on  and jumpy idling because of a bad battery???

I suppose it's due to drops in voltage confusing matters. Something as simple as the battery eh, must admit I didn't see that coming. Nice one though.

I suppose it's due to drops in voltage confusing matters. Something as simple as the battery eh, must admit I didn't see that coming. Nice one though.

yeah  just hoping that the problems dont come back have been driving it for 2 days now and no sign of the probs yet

 

so i think the battery was the only problem

Edited 29 February, 201610 yr by rsdanne

after i changed the battery the car ran fine for about 4 days  and after that the jumpy idle has come back  not as often as before but still the same issues jumpy idling and asr light that can pop up and when the car is restarted the asr light goes away 

 

thinking about putting my original injectors back and install my stage 1 map again and see if that sorts the problem =/

 

 

 

on my last scan i did the faultcode p0102 came up but the maf is brand new so i dont understand if that has brokend already after about 4 weeks of driving

Edited 11 March, 201610 yr by rsdanne

On Fabias from the same era, ASR light very often correlates with a broken load-sense (DFM) wire from the alternator. It's one of the two thin wires from the two-way connector on the back of the alt. On Fabia Mk1 these come to another connector on the front of the gearbox, low down, and often seem to break there.  Without DFM info, the onboard supply control unit struggles in its charge management duties and this may have led to your new battery getting low already.