*sigh...

 

as a bit of a follow up to my other thread of the power surging on and off on full throttle, after getting that almost fixed, to only a bit of a surge at the start when you put your foot dow, and a nice amount of power available, its now all changed again today ...

 

the surge has gone completely, the power is perfectly linear, all the way through the rev range, but its flat ... i wouldn't exactly call it slow, its not like its not boosting at all, or in limp mode,  but it feels like its 150 bhp.... at the moment its definitely slower than our mapped abarth!

 

after all the things I checked, changed (N75 etc) serviced (forge 007p) to get it running reasonable well, the power seems to have gone!

 

does anyone have any more ideas ? :(

 

Shark.

Edited 2 March, 201610 yr by sharkrider

Have you scanned it with VCDS?

Can you try a known working MAF? As said scan would be good too, logging would be even better...

Have you scanned it with VCDS?

 

not since I first bought it.... everything (fueling throttle body, sensors, turbo, maf ect all working normally, hence my tame mech said look for leaks and the 007p.... I did all that and got it working well) then today , just flat :( the fault that was diagnosed was the well know "loss of boost pressure between turbo and inlet manifold" hence the N75 change and DV change /service to cure! And it was working well!

Can you try a known working MAF? As said scan would be good too, logging would be even better...

MAF is fine... no change when disconnected, checked on the computer....... logging... yeah, i may have to bite the bullet and pay for that :(

 

 

problem is i changed my (perfect for 50k fabia II vRS) for this as I have NO money, change of jobs / circumstances ect , mean I have nothing to spend, so i was hoping for a cheap fix rather than a lot of garage time :( ...

Edited 3 March, 201610 yr by sharkrider

Did you try a smoke test? Shouldn't be too expensive...It also sounds like a leak round the cooler area to me

Edited 3 March, 201610 yr by YellowCar

Did you try a smoke test? Shouldn't be too expensive...It also sounds like a leak round the cooler area to me

its going back to my tame mech today . I wont be happy until it runs right :(

Any update Sharkrider?

yeah, I didn't visit my tame mech, because magically all the power has returned today ! its fast again! ...

 

maybe I have to accept my daily driver is a 15 y/o car with 155,000 miles on it.... and it just needed a REST ! lol.........

 

seriously, I doubt it was a new boost leak, as that wouldn't have magically gone away ..... i suspect the forge 007p playing up again to be honest .....

 

i will (when funds allow) get a FMIC and all the piping done, then I can forget about potential boost leaks....

 

then I'm going to R-tech for a stage 2 map.

 

until then, any offers on an alternative diverter valve? I dont want a dump to air valve, not keen on being chavvy...... the forge one (when working!) seems to be better than the standard one (standard one is more reliable) .... so what do people suggest ? any alternatives out there ?

 

(I enjoyed driving it today , lots of power, and it was dry enough and warm enough to get the tyres working, i even had some grip! )

Edited 3 March, 201610 yr by sharkrider

Standard dv, no issues, no tuning worries, no maintenance, will still see you right on stage 2, still no tuning required

Standard dv, no issues, no tuning worries, no maintenance, will still see you right on stage 2, still no tuning required

 x2

 

The diaphragm operation in the standard one is a lot smoother and they will hold 2 Bar easily without leaking

Standard dv, no issues, no tuning worries, no maintenance, will still see you right on stage 2, still no tuning required

 

 

 x2

 

The diaphragm operation in the standard one is a lot smoother and they will hold 2 Bar easily without leaking

maybe thats the way to go then...... I got (admittedly a second hand/no history) standard dv and fitted it initially to "fix" the problem I had when I got the car, of a massive loss of power in waves.... and it did work, up to a point! BUT when I serviced and replaced the 007p it worked better still, thats why i stuck with it!

 

maybe I should invest in a new (brand new) standard item..... if any problems return, i promise thats the way i will go!

What spring have you got in your Forge? I had an issue with a standard 225 TT with the normal spring (which should of been fine) but the next (stronger) spring up solved the issues and seemed to work ok. You could also try shimming it to see if it makes any difference.

 

This was the reason behind me making a test rig with a compressor/regulator and testing the standard one to see if it held pressure without passing, and it did, so I stuck with that.

What spring have you got in your Forge? I had an issue with a standard 225 TT with the normal spring (which should of been fine) but the next (stronger) spring up solved the issues and seemed to work ok. You could also try shimming it to see if it makes any difference.

 

This was the reason behind me making a test rig with a compressor/regulator and testing the standard one to see if it held pressure without passing, and it did, so I stuck with that.

I have the green spring in .... car is stage one, no idea what boost pressures, but I have a boost gauge I am going to fit when I get the piping ....

 

I serviced it with a new piston, new grease, and 3 new O-rings, has been ok since the service except for that one day (that caused me to start this thread) , I don't know if the dv is to blame...... logically given the problem then dissapeared, its the prime suspect....

Edited 4 March, 201610 yr by sharkrider

With a remap you will be running around 18-21 PSI of boost so you should be using the yellow spring ideally according to forge. If you e-mail them and say its passing with the green one they will more than likely send you one for free, they did for me. Their customer service is excellent.

 

Green - 5-15 PSI, Yellow - 15-23 PSI, Blue - 23-30 PSI, Red - 30 + PSI.