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mk1 Octavia vRS


octaviavrs170

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Hi to all on this forum. My name is Billy. This will be my second octavia vrs. The first one was a mk2 tdi in sprint yellow. I am so happy and excited to be back in a skoda octavia vrs. I love these cars and I'm very proud to be an owner once again. Especially when the last car was a 2.2 sri Vectra. Bucket of ***t.

 

Anyway onto the car. Its a mk1 2004 octavia vrs in black. It has a ding in the passenger side wing and a few scrapes under the front bumper due to speed bumps but apart from that for a 12 year old car its in really good condition. I don't believe the last owner looked after the car all that well as the condition of the interior was apalling. it still needs a DEEP clean however I'm not going to at the moment until the car has had everything fixed or uprated that it requires at the moment. The car has 104k miles and runs ok. It could be running a lot better and smoother especially on full throttle but the car was sitting for a few months as the clutch went on it and I hope a good solid service will help the car run like it should. So the latest list for the car includes:

 

oil flush, oil, oil filter, k+n panel filter, pollen and fuel filters, spark plugs, timing belt kit incl dampers and tensioners, water pump, thermostat, coolant flush and replenish, brembo f/ discs and pads, brake fluid change and a set of new calipers all round as the car brakes ok but not like it should. I know of 2 calipers that are slightly sticking. I will also change the power steering fluid as part of the major service. I was made aware of the ignition coils being recalled on this car and after speaking to skoda today, the car DOES have the recall and its now booked into skoda next week for the coils to be change FOC. I'm also going to get the technicians to go through the car with a fine toothcomb and notify me of anything wrong that needs addressing. I am competent enough to complete the majority of the work myself. Due to a serious knocking from the front suspension I will be changing the front wishbones and installing polys onto them, droplinks and t/rod ends. I have looked at a suspension set-up but I'm not sure the best route. I'm not looking for a mega low look but a subtle drop of around 30mm and nice stance will do me so any suggestions would be appreciated. While I'm there I will change the top mounts to polys too. Then that really covers the maintenance aspect of the car.

 

Modification wise I'm not going to go mad with the car as it will be used as a family car too. However I will tint the windows, install rear clip in blinds, and a set of heko wind deflectors to finish it off. with a nice drop, I may opt to refurbish the vrs alloys or I may choose a set of BBS alloys I seen. They looked really nice. Exhaust wise I will stick to a resonated system from the cat back to give a nice rumble. Later on I may change downpipe cat converter and intercooler but for the moment just subtle mods. For the interior after a deep clean, I have new mats on order, stainless VRS sill plates, headunit change and possibly interior lighting under dash style. but again nothing too heavy.

 

After all that who knows. I will at some point in the near future attend to the dent on the wing and possibly have the bumpers resprayed and add a new cupra splitter. I will also upgrade the power to possibly stage 2. Whatever that needs to gain that I will spend as I really like the car. But at the moment I would be happy with a subtle looking car with good looks and power. If anything like hoses etc need changed then I would always opt for the upgraded versions. It makes sense.

 

Thank you for reading this thread and I look forward to adding my progress on this forum. Any suggestions would be appreciated as to what mods go well etc. I know the advice is 110% on this forum and its always worth listening and learnig from fellow enthusiasts. All the best folks

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  • 3 weeks later...

On the suspension go for Bilstein B6 shocks and Eibach Pro Kit springs, amazing quality of ride and handling a with 30mm drop, best of both worlds :)

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  • 3 weeks later...

Anyway folks sorry for not updating the thread as per above. Been a bit of a bad time at the minute. I had a funeral to pay for and I was out of work for a few weeks there. Hence the no posts on this thread and any progress with the car. Anyway all is better now and the thread will continue.

 

Tonight I purchased some service kit for the octavia. I got wynns oil flush, 5l Castrol magnatec c3 5/30 oil, bosch oil filter, k&n panel filter, pollen filter, hengst fuel filter, 4 denso sparks plugs and a new oil pick-up pipe. All for the reasonable price of £109 from eurocarparts. The oil pick-up pipe was from Horton skoda on ebay. He even did a wee discount on the k&n as it was a lot more than I paid. I will try and get the service completed asap as I need to get the car to the skoda dealership to have the recall done on the coils. Once that's done I will be getting the timing belt, tensioners, dampers, water-pump, thermostat and coolant changed as a precaution. I don't know the full history of the car and I always do it as its peace of mind for me.

 

I need some advice though. I will be checking the gauge of the plugs before installation but can anyone tell me what the gap should be set at? Also the oil I got, I know it has suitable for vw on the container but is it something that other members have used and what are the pros and cons of the oil: for example longevity, cleanliness and service interval? I will change the oil and filter every 5000 miles but I like to be sure and always ask advice if I can.

 

Cheers

 

I will try and post up some pics of the car soon. having trouble making the pics small enough for the forum. Any tips on that either?

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Small update. Needed some new wiper blades very badly. So off too eurocarparts and purchased myself some new aeroblade wipers for the front and a bosch rear aero wiper. already made a massive difference to the visibility when driving. That's another small thing off the list. Hopefully this weekend I will get the service done and worked out how to put up pictures of the car and the parts on this forum.

 

Any takers on the gaps for the spark plugs and the best oil to use?

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Thanks Evil. I always check the plug gaps to be certain anyway and was wondering what the correct gap was for the car. I've never had to adjust any new plugs tbh but always measure twice cut once as they say. :D Right spec of oil andy as in being 5/30W full synthetic?

 

Anyone got any advice for the FARB and the bushes. Its been mentioned in the froum about an R32 FARB and 23mm poly bushes. Would I be correct in saying that's the case? Need to change mine asap as ****ted a massive pothole and its knackered my arb links and bushes. Think they were the cause of the knocking noise from the front end of the car anyway but now its definitely needing changed.

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Standard bars are 18mm and the r32 is 23mm and highly recommended, I have one to fit but cant get my cross member bolts out to get access to the roll bar half moons! Slightly annoying, need to spend more time on it with new bolts and fire to help me get them off

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Standard bars are 18mm and the r32 is 23mm and highly recommended, I have one to fit but cant get my cross member bolts out to get access to the roll bar half moons! Slightly annoying, need to spend more time on it with new bolts and fire to help me get them off

 

Been looking at the 25mm neuspeed FARB instead as its only £5 difference between that and the OEM r32 one. Is there much of a difference between the 2 apart from the 2mm?

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Personnaly my cars a daily so dont wanna go no bigger than 23mm and you will notice on here a rear roll bar makes the biggest difference to these and has to be spec'd to match the front to keep balance, a 25mm front would need the larger rears to be fully effective and thats when a car can become too stiff and very snappy for daily use. You also need to consider what suspension plans you have, if your keeping it fairly soft then big bars are not worth having. I want to track my car but daily use is key so am working off group1rs petes black vrs build as a guide although I wont spend as much as he did but his was one of the best handling cars on here upsetting alot of fast cars on track with 230bhp! I recommend a read, a very long read lol

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Also keen eyes on ebay, r32 bars go for around 100-120 on there or if your really lucky like I was £23 but that really was a 1 off. Depending on your reply above a 21mm s3, cupra r, tt bar could be a cheap upgrade too

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Personnaly my cars a daily so dont wanna go no bigger than 23mm and you will notice on here a rear roll bar makes the biggest difference to these and has to be spec'd to match the front to keep balance, a 25mm front would need the larger rears to be fully effective and thats when a car can become too stiff and very snappy for daily use. You also need to consider what suspension plans you have, if your keeping it fairly soft then big bars are not worth having. I want to track my car but daily use is key so am working off group1rs petes black vrs build as a guide although I wont spend as much as he did but his was one of the best handling cars on here upsetting alot of fast cars on track with 230bhp! I recommend a read, a very long read lol

 

Good point actually think I will stick with r32 upgrade and 23mm poly's

 

 

 

Also keen eyes on ebay, r32 bars go for around 100-120 on there or if your really lucky like I was £23 but that really was a 1 off. Depending on your reply above a 21mm s3, cupra r, tt bar could be a cheap upgrade too

 

Will scout the ebay pages like a hawk and see what I can pick up but need to do it asap as the front end is getting quite bad and I going to change the front set-upyway so 2 birds one stoe as they say.

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Another update. Went over to VRT tuning in Slough today. I'm really impressed with the level of service they offered and attention to detail etc. I spent a good 20 mins from the man's hectic schedule to talk about upgrades etc and best ways of doing it all and I'm properly happy. I got a quote from them for the timing belt, water pump, thermostat, dampers and coolant change and have booked the car in for the 28th April. First of all though I need to do the service: wynns oil flush, oil, oil filter, k&n air panel filter, fuel filter and pollen filter, plugs and oil pick-up pipe change.

 

However the car has got another small issue. When I parked up outside my digs, I went to engage reverse gear and it took me a good 2 mins to get it and when it did the gear shift feels really tight and its really hard to engage. I know the car has had a new clutch, it was done by the man I bought it from as he gave me the paperwork. I will change the gearbox oil as part of the service too and I have found oil from eurocarparts. It's Triple QX75W90 5l semi-synthetic oil. Would this oil be the right stuff for the gearbox? Also I found a very useful guide and video on how to reset the gear-linkage via the forum and you-tube. Has anyone done this recently and does it actually work? I'm a bit wary of pulling the plastic clips with springs down and allowing the linkage teeth to open and the linkage cables go "ping". Is there anyone who could maybe advise me on this and if they have had similar issues etc? Also if it doesn't cure the issue are clutch slave cyliners ok to change?

 

Cheers folks

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It was recommended to me by a mechanic to use a tin of oil flush before a service/oil change. It surely cant do any harm can't it? Unless you or anyone else has heard something bad about them. any thoughts or opinions on this actually. it would be quite interesting to know other peoples experience on this. 

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I also wouldn't bother with the oil flush it's very likely to of had a good fully synthetic oil all its life being a turbo petrol and if your changing the oil drain pipe it's not really a risk.

I also run quantum 5w40 instead of 5w30 because it is slightly thicker. When I was at VW we had a lot more problems with cars running 5w30 cars running extended services compared to the the yearly 5w40 cars. It's probably not 100% fact but it was just my experience. Also rs4/6's run the thicker oil :)

I would take of the breather pipes and see if there getting gummed up. I have to clear mine recently which I'm sure due to the increased boost level I'm running and the regular short journeys I make.

Your knocking from the suspension will be very likely the rear track control arm bushes. From experience you can buy arms from euros GSF etc but they will likely have a 2-3 year life span and that's for there "oem" quality ones. Personally I brought those arms and put purple superpro bushes in and it was much much better.

Hope this helps

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Hope external links are ok

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=772337

 

Personally I would use a rapid oil change or 2 over using a flushing agent.

That was a very good read actually evil. Thank you for putting me in the right direction of it. I was a bit apprehensive before i bought it as its a modern engine and shouldn't need flushing if its been looked after. the only reason i got it was a mechanic mentioned that as the car had been sitting for as while and with it not being used the oil might be worse for wear and to suggest that before draining to make sure of all the crud being extracted at the point of draining. and at only £4.99 a tin i thought it may be worth it. I did look at the website to check on the reviews etc and it seems mustard. but i did doubt it before i got it as i would be changing the oil every 6 months regardless of miles. I do have the invoice from eurocarparts anyway so i can take back. not an issue.

 

Thats why i love the forum. everyone knows a little knowledge about something that others dont. 

 

cheers man

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I also wouldn't bother with the oil flush it's very likely to of had a good fully synthetic oil all its life being a turbo petrol and if your changing the oil drain pipe it's not really a risk.

I also run quantum 5w40 instead of 5w30 because it is slightly thicker. When I was at VW we had a lot more problems with cars running 5w30 cars running extended services compared to the the yearly 5w40 cars. It's probably not 100% fact but it was just my experience. Also rs4/6's run the thicker oil :)

I would take of the breather pipes and see if there getting gummed up. I have to clear mine recently which I'm sure due to the increased boost level I'm running and the regular short journeys I make.

Your knocking from the suspension will be very likely the rear track control arm bushes. From experience you can buy arms from euros GSF etc but they will likely have a 2-3 year life span and that's for there "oem" quality ones. Personally I brought those arms and put purple superpro bushes in and it was much much better.

Hope this helps

 

will look at the pipes on the service and make sure their not gummed up. thanks for the advice. i will keep the 5w30 for now but after 6 months i will change to 5w40 even though im doing 6 months service intervals regardless 

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  • 2 months later...

Small update for the octavia. Will try and post some pics up soon. The car got hit by a bloody impatient moped rider in london a few weeks ago and cracked a massive hole in the back bumper so another job on the cards for the skoda. Then car was off the road for a week last month due to the amazing longevity of the exhaust system and didnt have the cash to fix straight away. However came across a seller on here with a full milltek exhaust system for sale incl hi-flow downpipe and sports cat and non resonated system cat-back. Bought it and got It fitted and the car drives so much better. The throttle response is epic and the car pulls so much better through the gears. Still having problems though with the boost leak and discovered it to be a vac pipe so fri 22nd it goes back into the garage to have it replaced. Also bought a mk4 golf R32 FARB with powerflex bushes so that's on the cards for next week too. Been a tough few months financially but plodding away as need be. Next on the agenda is service. Everything incl the oil pick-up pipe is getting done. gearbox oil and power steering flush too. got a k&n panel filter to fit too. Also it goes in for the coilpack recall soon after and then onto the brakes. A complete overhaul incl Brembo discs and pads all round with new calipers as 2 are sticking. One front and one rear so replacing the lot and new braided brake hoses and handbrake release springs too while im in the guts of the car and will do a brake fluid change while I'm there. Then it gets booked in for Timingbelt and waterpump change. Plans after that? short shift kit, g60 flywheel and vr6 upgrade, ecs dogbone, 28mm rear arb, coilovers (maybe dampers and springs), tints, deflectors, rear blinds, new alloys and then ill tackle the bodywork. got a quote to repair and paint the bumpers, dent in n/s/f wing and straighten out sills as there crushed in with jacking up. Not me the car had that when I bought it. Love the car and want it looking pucker. Phew long list but I'm plodding away when finances give me the chance too.

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