My swirl flaps seem to be leaking around the actuator.

First question.... Can you just replace the actuator and seal? It's spraying a bit of thick black oil out around the area.

Secondly.... If not and I need to replace the manifold can I use one from a BKD engine? Seems that the Seat guys do it but can't find much mention on here.

Will I notice any difference no longer having swirl flaps?

Cheers

OK. A bit of reading around suggests that this one fits. And has flaps.

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=161948076054&alt=web

Any thoughts?

Just incase anyone comes across this with the same problem I'll keep it updated.

I've just ordered a BKD inlet from Darkside Developments. It's aluminium and has no flaps. They say it bolts straight on and engine cover still fits.

They supply a second hand but cleaned up manifold with bolts and gaskets. Not the cheapest way to get one but hassle free and I don't have to do any cleaning

Will take some photos when I come to change it and report if I notice any difference in performance.

Today I fitted the new inlet manifold.

Took me about 3 hours including cleaning everything up before refitting. Was reasonably straight forward, worst bit was cleaning up the egr gunk.

The leak on the original manifold had got really bad over the last couple of thousand miles and made a bit of a mess.

The good news is the car runs exactly the same as on the old manifold, hasn't stuttered yet between 1.5 - 2k revs and if anything is slightly smoother under light throttle. And no more swirl flaps to worry about.

Hi Phil,

 

How is the car running now with the BDK manifold? Im contemplating going down that route instead of the expensive oem with flaps route...Interested to hear how your getting on with it,

 

Thanks

 

Mike

Advice to you all....Thanks Phil for your update on the BKD. I'm happy now with no more flaps, car feels massively different, aka as it should be. No more juddering and missing boost....

 

If you see this....

 

 

 

 

Then replace the manifold asap. I was quite lucky in the grand scheme of things.

 

Next thing to greet you, the intake side of the intake manifold. EGR is equally messed

 

 

 

 

 

All flaps destroyed, most missing entirely.

 

 

 

 

Oof yours was worse than mine, my flaps were all still intact. Glad it worked out well for you

This is the message I sent to miller about mine, about 5k miles since fitting and all is still good:

 

 

The car has been great since changing the manifold over. I haven't noticed it running any differently at all and no more leaky spraying oil everywhere.

 

The bracket on the top right of the manifold needs a tiny bit of clearancing due to the casting shape of the manifold and I think I needed a spacer on the bottom left bolt so that the bracket would fit properly - I used an oversized nut and a couple of washers I think. It should make sense once you start putting it back together.

 

Not sure if I posted in the original thread but I also changed the EGR gasket over to one with the 10mm hole in it, not sure if it's this or just a clean out that has helped but it's got rid of my slight judder/misfire that you could feel accelerating gently from 1500-2000revs.

 

I'm much happier knowing that there's no chance of ingesting a dodgy flap now!

 

Hi all, 

 

what did you do with the vacuum pipe which is on the actuator that controls the flaps? 

 

Cheers 

Rob

hello did you have more information regarding the vacuum pipe ? My inlet has failed and will not allow DPF regen, was thinking of buying one of the BKD ally inlets to replace my plastic  

@phil5556 @miller

I’m afraid I can’t remember anymore. I got rid of the  car about 2 years ago so can’t look.

 

 At a guess I imagine I put a bolt in it. I didn’t do any coding and didn’t have any lights on the dash.

All done, I was missing multiple flaps and luckily the engine ate them nicely, managed to complete a force regen and all faults cleared however my coil light came on again on my way home, engine off back on cleared it but thought this was related to the failed inlet 

Perdona que escriba en ESPAÑOL.

Yo tengo un RS 170 AÑO 2007.

Le quite las aletas y el eje de hierro.

Tapone y condene el pulmón de vació. O es decir lo que muele las aletas.

El coche va perfecto.

En bajas, un poco mal pero solo en bajas.

A poca velocidad un poco mal.

Por lo demás el coche estupendo y lleva así ya mas de un año.

 

19 minutes ago, Klaus_kudo said:

Perdona que escriba en ESPAÑOL.

Yo tengo un RS 170 AÑO 2007.

Le quite las aletas y el eje de hierro.

Tapone y condene el pulmón de vació. O es decir lo que muele las aletas.

El coche va perfecto.

En bajas, un poco mal pero solo en bajas.

A poca velocidad un poco mal.

Por lo demás el coche estupendo y lleva así ya mas de un año.

 

You need to post in English. 
 

Perhaps google translate if you are unable to post as such??

Sorry for writing in SPANISH.

I have a RS 170 YEAR 2007.

I removed the fins and the iron shaft.

Plug and condemn the empty lung. Or in other words, what grinds the fins.

The car is perfect.

In casualties, a little bad but only in casualties.

At low speed a little bad.

Otherwise the car is great and has been like that for over a year.

 

No hay problema

 

eso es una buena idea

 

Tengo un kit de conversión de aliados

 

¿el tuyo no pierde aceite ahora?

my car does not lose oil when it was broken lost a covered time where the lung area, perfect. the only thing is that when you remove them. The car low in 1a, 2a, if put up with gas, given as a pull. but it's normal air lacks low. the mission of the collector is that the car when current low returns. closes some. for the air fence faster by others. ie the flow rate increases it low. If you take away as veneers. in casualties it is lazier. but in high anger better. in high spend less fuel.

yes exactly a and thanks 

 

 

forgive my language. I am Spanish