I have a 2002 Comfort 1.9Tdi estate with 2 owners and done 115,000 miles. It is in lovely condition and I have owned it for the last 9 years. It's been carefully driven, the engine is superb and hardly uses a drop of oil. I have carried out the basic services myself, always using Castrol Edge Turbo diesel oil and BP Ultimate diesel fuel. It is due for it's next Cam belt and Water pump change in a years time. I removed all the 4 door cards and sealed them with 'Tiger Seal' as a precaution against water leaks when I bought it and it remains leak free.

 

I like the car very much and am reluctant to sell it but it has developed some electrical gremlins which I am not capable of sorting out myself and wonder if anyone has a ball park figure of what the overall cost of repairs might be through a good independent garage or if they should only be trusted to a Skoda dealership.

 

2 years ago the tailgate developed a mind of it's own and I replaced the tailgate lid switch, but it didn't cure it, so I disconnected both parts and have since used the manual release cable at the side of the drivers seat, which I don't mind doing.

Both front electric windows have now become very spasmodic when using the drivers door switches, but the passenger window is fine when operated by the passenger door switch. I've carried out all the fuse checks and reset processes as recommended in the forums to no avail, so I guess the drivers door switches need replacing.

 

The remote key locking operation does not work, even with a new battery so I now use the key manually. This has now gone temperamental, as it often only unlocks the drivers door but after a few open and close waggles, up to now I have got it to open all doors.

 

I am now obviously fearful that one day either I won't be able to open it to get into the car or lock it at all.

 

From reading the forums I gather that this type of combination of problems can get very complicated and costly, hence the original question.

 

So, have it repaired or sell it, and if it's the latter, as it's in such good condition what might it be worth to somebody who was able sort it out themselves?

 

 

 

 

You should be able to manage the drivers door window switch yourself, it doesn't require any tools, just something to lever off the top of the rest with, a spatula or spoon or butter knife would do.

The boot may be the lock itself, the cable from the catch would still work without the electrics. If it's not bothering you, I'd say leave this one unless you can get a cheap lock to swap in to test. I'm wondering if a dodgy lock here would cause central locking problems, someone else may be able to advise...

The door lock contacts do get worn out with age, in particular there is a microswitch inside the door which wears down, fiddly job to do as you say, if you can sort the remote instead this may be easier and just leave the lock alone. I think officially Skoda don't sell just the microswitch and it is non-serviceable, although others on here have bought them in the aftermarket and carefully installed a new one using tiny self-tapping screws. A relatively advanced job, if you're not confident then simply getting the remote working again and never using the keyhole is easier.

I guess from your description that you only have one key? If so I'd guess a contact on the electrics in the key have failed as the immobiliser presumably still works and that is separate. They lead a hard life, being in sweaty pockets, getting rained on and constantly crushed under you thumb. Also, did you know you can get key insurance for about £20-30 which covers you to get a new key cut and coded to the vehicle if you lose it? Accidents happen...

Edited 14 April, 201610 yr by wiredsoftware

Thank for that very helpful reply.

 

I do have the original spare key but it does not have a remote battery function. Since I entered the original query I have found that by holding the key firmly into the lock position for 2-3 seconds all 4 doors do lock, with a double click sound and the tiny red light in the door top flashes. In the same way all doors unlock if I carry out the same very deliberate procedure to unlock. I will continue to test this method for a few days and if it continues to be successful I will buy the driver's door switch as you describr it is so easy to fit.

 

From what you said I assume that by getting a new remote key it would get around any door lock contacts wear issues and I would be obliged if you had any info on a reliable supplier for one of these together with coding capability. I do have the original key code.

 

All in all it looks hopeful that I can get around these problems without major expense, keep the car and hope that it might be worth doing the cam belt and water pump renewal again next year as the engine is so good.

 

Cheers,

 

Skodaoldy

Thank for that very helpful reply.

 

I do have the original spare key but it does not have a remote battery function. Since I entered the original query I have found that by holding the key firmly into the lock position for 2-3 seconds all 4 doors do lock, with a double click sound and the tiny red light in the door top flashes. In the same way all doors unlock if I carry out the same very deliberate procedure to unlock. I will continue to test this method for a few days and if it continues to be successful I will buy the driver's door switch as you describr it is so easy to fit.

 

From what you said I assume that by getting a new remote key it would get around any door lock contacts wear issues and I would be obliged if you had any info on a reliable supplier for one of these together with coding capability. I do have the original key code.

 

All in all it looks hopeful that I can get around these problems without major expense, keep the car and hope that it might be worth doing the cam belt and water pump renewal again next year as the engine is so good.

 

Cheers,

 

Skodaoldy

 

In your first paragraph do you mean the window switches and that the *windows* close when you hold the key closed? The *window* switches are are easy to do, the lock microswitches much less so.

 

Any vehicle locksmith local to you will be able to make up a new key and code it in. If you are paying this yourself, you may be able to reduce the cost by having them use the immobiliser piece, body and shaft from the old key and just replacing the electronics in it (so no need to cut a new key or get the little glass cylinder inside). Many of them are mobile, so will come to you.

 

A key is made up of four parts:

1) The outer plastic. This does nothing, it just holds it all together and keeps dirt/water out.

2) The metal shaft. This has the appropriate sets of bumps to match the lock in the door and ignition to allow it to physically turn

3) The immobiliser tube. This is a small glass tube, that when held very close to the ignition lock is recognised by the car and allows the engine to be started.

4) The electronics. This consists of 1-3 buttons and a circuit which sends a signal to the car when pressed to lock/unlock. The car needs to recognise this too.

 

On keys with no remote capability, part 4 is not present or is replaced with a little torch light instead.

 

Your part 4 is most likely defective (a locksmith should be able to confirm). Parts 1-3 are working as they should, so in theory you can get a locksmith to fit a new part 4 without having to supply/make parts 1-3.

Edited 14 April, 201610 yr by wiredsoftware

Did the battery in the remote key go flat before replacing? 

 

It's possible that it needs recoding to the car for it to work remotely.

 

It's quite a simple procedure.

 

The battery originally went flat, I replaced it with a new Duracell, it worked ok for a few days then stopped working again. I put in another battery which new to have plenty of charge but it still did not work.

 

The switches are the 2 small switches set side by side in the front section of the arm rest, with manual and automatic functions. I have had a quote of £37 for these from my local Skoda main dealer but haven’t ordered because of the door lock issue.

 

If the key procedure I am now following continues to be successful I will get the switches as they are so simple to fit. The remote key is well rubbed after 14 years so I will get a complete new one.

 

Just a thought whilst on line, I drive the car carefully, doing 10,000 miles a year and have had 2 complete cam belt and water pump changes at 5year (50,000 mile) intervals at an independent VW specialist garage. They reckon this interval is safe irrespective of the VW 4 year warning, mainly it seems due more to water pump part collapses than the belt failing.

 

It is due for it’s next replacement next year after 5 years, and I’m wondering, due to the age of the car then, if it might be worth risking not having it done and running it until it goes bang then scrapping it.

 

Have you any idea how long these parts have been know to last driven as I do?

It is due for it’s next replacement next year after 5 years, and I’m wondering, due to the age of the car then, if it might be worth risking not having it done and running it until it goes bang then scrapping it.

 

Only you can answer this. Sometimes these parts will fail before the specified interval, sometimes way way after. If you're happy to take the gamble, then do. I guess you'd get £0-40 for scrap as it's very low at the moment (or maybe £50-100 on eBay as spares-or-repair?), or probably £500-800 for a working car (even if it is overdue on servicing, dependent on spec/condition).

 

Best case, you run the car for another year with minimum maintenance and it doesn't blow up, and you sell it on for say £600 as a runner with some MOT. Worst case, it blows up tomorrow and you get nothing for scrappage. Odds of either? Hard to tell.

Edited 14 April, 201610 yr by wiredsoftware

I like the last option, run it for another year but not to spend major sums should they be needed, but scrap it rather than spend a lot. If I get that far cheaply, try to sell it as a clean, running motor for about £600 without replacing the cam belt, but if I can't sell it, run it on until it goes bang.

 

Thanks again for the help and advice.

 

Skodaoldy