New (1st) vRS - what should I replace/upgrade/check first?

[shm]

I've read many useful and informative threads on this site over the last month or so since buying my first mk1 VRS estate.

As far as I can see from what paperwork is available it's been serviced regularly and at correct intervals, timing belt & water pump were last done at 90k (it's now at 110k). There are no receipts for this but it's listed as being done in the service history.

It had also had a stage 1 remap that was done by hyperchips (don't know if they're any good?).

I've put in a piper cross panel filter and will be cleaning the MAF with some electrical spray just to ensure it's metering optimally.

I've also got a new genuine VAG dump valve to fit as I believe this is worth doing seeing as the existing one is the one fitted at manufacture 10+ years ago.

Is there anything else I should be changing or checking?

I've read a lot about the N75 valve. I've currently got no reason to doubt it's working perfectly but is it a worthwhile replacement on an old car?

Also - oversized TIP? worthwhile? diy job? easy/PITA?

Thanks for any advice.

[russell wheeler]

Just because it's ticked in the service book that the cambelt has been changed, without proof (ie a proper invoice), anyone can tick the service book. If you cannot get poof, I would change the cambelt, water pump and tensioners.

[octyal]

Just because it's ticked in the service book that the cambelt has been changed, without proof (ie a proper invoice), anyone can tick the service book. If you cannot get poof, I would change the cambelt, water pump and tensioners.

+1 - or at least pop the cover off and inspect the belt. Any signs of cracking, or if it looks old, then change it, after 20k miles you should still be able to see the part numbers etc

A good service of plugs, filters etc as well

[YellowCar]

As well as the above

Clean throttle body

Check if it has been in for coil packs recall

Check pipework

You're right about the gen recirc valve, other than that if it ain't broke (or about to break) don't fix it. If it feels like it's running ok then it probably is. N75 isn't a common enough problem to warrant a preventative swap.

[Leeboy]

As above, check the integrity of all the rubber pipe work associated with the intake system and emissions stuff.

Then prioritise the oil pick up in the sump. You don't want low oil pressure to ruin your engine.

Door locks and central locking plus associated bits and pieces like lights on buzzer all functioning as it should?

[shm]

Cheers for the feedback so far.

I'll investigate the timing belt further for evidence of it being newish.

As for throttle body cleaning - will I get problems with it needing realigning using vagcom?

I should also mention I have minimal experience working on cars (although am pretty practical) so is throttle body cleaning a relatively simple diy job?

[shm]

Leeboy - locking and other electrics all seem to work, with the exception of the cruise control (not a big deal for the time being) and the light on the ASR switch doesn't come on when you switch off the ASR (dash light does though).

I'll go over all the pipes etc to see if i can spot any obvious leaks, although I'm no expert!

I did have my garage give the car a full service inspection, although this possibly didn't include a pressure/integrity test of all the airways and so on.

[YellowCar]

You can manage doing the throttle body by leaving it plugged in and just unbolting if in any doubt. Ecu should figure it out anyway, have a new gasket ready.