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KESSY Failure

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KESSY failed today on my Toledo.Had to open the door with the remote control and it would not start.Consulted the handbook and adopted the emergency starting procedure which involves putting the key fob as near to the start button as possible.After a few tries lo and behold the engine started.During the journey home  I got beeps at intervals and the message "key not found" displayed.Got home and tried the spare key fob and all functions worked.Swapped the batteries between the two units and now both work.Suspect a bit of corrosion on the lithium battery but have ordered two new ones off E-bay for 99p.It surprises me that the fob batteries should exhaust after only 8 months.

Could well be a bad contact with the battery, or just a crap battery.

I've recently found some really bad lifespan issues with branded CR2032 batteries (I use a fair few in my bicycle lights, and also use them for my Misfit step counter). I've had Maxell, Duracell and Varta batteries last literarily a few weeks in devices that they should have lasted around 6 months with normal use.

Currently using Energiser-branded batteries in both which are proving to be more consistent and lasting in line with expectations.

My Yeti didnt quite get that far,  it started where the doors would not open, and the boot was the same.

 

Both key fobs started doing this within 4 weeks of each other and the battery in the fob came with the car so lasted 1  & 2 months short of 2 years.

 

Heard that they should last approx 18 months.

My Yeti didnt quite get that far, it started where the doors would not open, and the boot was the same.

Both key fobs started doing this within 4 weeks of each other and the battery in the fob came with the car so lasted 1 & 2 months short of 2 years.

Heard that they should last approx 18 months.

While my Rapid doesn't have Kessy, My primary keyfob has been in my possession and used daily for 19 months (and 9 months with the dealer before that). There are no signs the battery has been replaced so have good reason to believe it's still on its factory fob battery.

Would be curious to know if fobs for Kessy cars use more energy than non-Kessy ones with the basic immobiliser chip.

While my Rapid doesn't have Kessy, My primary keyfob has been in my possession and used daily for 19 months (and 9 months with the dealer before that). There are no signs the battery has been replaced so have good reason to believe it's still on its factory fob battery.

Would be curious to know if fobs for Kessy cars use more energy than non-Kessy ones with the basic immobiliser chip.

The immobiliser circuit inside the key fob is a passive component; it gets its power from the car via magnetic induction, so no power drain from it.

The main power consumer from the key fob is the RF transmitter, which works only when a button is pressed.

The CR2032 batteries can last for decades, depending on their load, as they have a very low self-discharge rate. However, casings are usually not very firm and may lose contact with the battery over time.

Before replacing a CR2032 perform the "tongue check" and if it's good then try putting it back. Usually that's all it takes.

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The immobiliser circuit inside the key fob is a passive component; it gets its power from the car via magnetic induction, so no power drain from it.

The main power consumer from the key fob is the RF transmitter, which works only when a button is pressed.

The CR2032 batteries can last for decades, depending on their load, as they have a very low self-discharge rate. However, casings are usually not very firm and may lose contact with the battery over time.

Before replacing a CR2032 perform the "tongue check" and if it's good then try putting it back. Usually that's all it takes.

I presume you are referring to the normal Key/remote rather than the KESSY fob.Since the KESSY fob very rarely comes within 18 inches of the steering column it would have to be a pretty powerful magnietic field to induce any power in the fob.As I had to hold the fob as near to the start button as possible I presume that it was at this point that enough current was induced in the fob's immobiliser circuit.

I presume you are referring to the normal Key/remote rather than the KESSY fob.Since the KESSY fob very rarely comes within 18 inches of the steering column it would have to be a pretty powerful magnietic field to induce any power in the fob.As I had to hold the fob as near to the start button as possible I presume that it was at this point that enough current was induced in the fob's immobiliser circuit.

The term Immobiliser refers to the original purpose of immobilising the car when a copied key is used to start it. Yes, I was referring to the old key fob.

The KESSY ones are probably active and use RF to communicate with the car.

I presume you are referring to the normal Key/remote rather than the KESSY fob.Since the KESSY fob very rarely comes within 18 inches of the steering column it would have to be a pretty powerful magnietic field to induce any power in the fob.As I had to hold the fob as near to the start button as possible I presume that it was at this point that enough current was induced in the fob's immobiliser circuit.

My point exactly - it would make sense that the fob for a KESSY car is doing more than a conventional one, and not relying on the use of passive energy components like my non-KESSY one does.

KESSY keys are an active type key and do use power when in proximity to your car,

Advice is not to store the key in/near the car when parked at home as it discharges the key battery quicker due to being pinged by the car for proximity and then transmitting.

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