Hi, quite an irritating thing has happened today, the passanger side rear window has stopped working completely (both drivers switch and rear door switch) rest of the windows are working however, the other rear window is now working automatically which it wasn't before, cant think that i've altered anything recently in the maxidot.

 

Also I can't operate the windows or mirrors anymore via my key, which I think is connected. 

A lot of people have seen similar issues when the wires from the main control module in the driver's door begin to break where they go through the door hinge. You might get a better idea if you find someone with an OBD reader to see what error codes the car is reporting.

A lot of people have seen similar issues when the wires from the main control module in the driver's door begin to break where they go through the door hinge. You might get a better idea if you find someone with an OBD reader to see what error codes the car is reporting.

would that trigger the management light to come on though?

I had a similar issue with my twindoor. Drivers rear door stopped locking and couldn't close or open the window with the switches (but could with the remote!). Tracked it down to a broken wire in the drivers door. Soldered back together and all was happy again

 

Check the boot between the door and the shell. Boot is a bugger to get off.

I had a similar issue with my twindoor. Drivers rear door stopped locking and couldn't close or open the window with the switches (but could with the remote!). Tracked it down to a broken wire in the drivers door. Soldered back together and all was happy again

 

Check the boot between the door and the shell. Boot is a bugger to get off.

Hi, just checked and the central locking and red door open light are all not working which tells me no power is getting there there.

Do each door have their own fuses ?

Hopefully it is just a fuse. Not sure what way the fusing is arranged for the doors, but checking everything in the fuse box is a good place to start. A broken wire, if it's a power lead, will give the same symptoms as the fuse on the line being blown, but fixing it is a lot less convenient. The engine management light coming on might not have anything to do with this fault if it didn't show up at the same time, but reading the fault codes from the car is essential for peace of mind if you have to keep using the car while this light is on.

Hopefully it is just a fuse. Not sure what way the fusing is arranged for the doors, but checking everything in the fuse box is a good place to start. A broken wire, if it's a power lead, will give the same symptoms as the fuse on the line being blown, but fixing it is a lot less convenient. The engine management light coming on might not have anything to do with this fault if it didn't show up at the same time, but reading the fault codes from the car is essential for peace of mind if you have to keep using the car while this light is on.

cheers for the reply just to let you know though my management light isn't on.

I'll check the fuses when I finish work but one would have thought if it was the fuse it would be more then just one door ...I'll give it a go and get back to you .

Well, I checked the internal fuse box and i'm not totally sure what the relevant fuse would be for the NSR door but the ones what had a symbol of a door and window were checked and they were fine.

 

Mystery goes on... 

Honestly check the wiring between the door and the shell. It shouldn't take several minutes and will give you an answer either way

I've done that but can only pull back the rubber one way (from the connecting block) unfortunately I disconnected this block and it triggered the airbag warning light to illuminate and stay on .

Is there a way to totally disconnect the rubber to get at the other end ?

The wires looked okay going into the block tbf...just need to see the other end .

Edited 9 June, 201610 yr by Taximark

Did you move the seat all the way back to make space for yourself while you were working on the door? You might have disconnected the seat airbag plug. Disconnect the battery before going at any wiring related to the airbags though. I've never heard anyone mention there being wiring in the door to do with the airbags, though there's a very small chance there's an accelerometer for the curtain airbags in there - unlikely since slamming the door may be indistinguishable from a side impact.

Did you move the seat all the way back to make space for yourself while you were working on the door? You might have disconnected the seat airbag plug. Disconnect the battery before going at any wiring related to the airbags though. I've never heard anyone mention there being wiring in the door to do with the airbags, though there's a very small chance there's an accelerometer for the curtain airbags in there - unlikely since slamming the door may be indistinguishable from a side impact.

By disconnecting it I have obviously triggered it, I'll have to just reset it by using a code reader. 

Update *

It was a broken wire on the pillar end , it was broken.

They don't seem strong or long enough.

Update *

It was a broken wire on the pillar end , it was broken.

They don't seem strong or long enough.

 

A nice multi stranded silicone coated wire with a little more length would be perfect for that location. Alas they cost lots more than PVC coated solid. Where I used to work a good quality flexible wire (with a special PVC jacket as we couldn't use silicone) was over 2 the price of a cheaper PVC solid version. GIven the cost difference I can't imagine they would do it unfortunately.

I am starting to see similar problems on my 2012 Superb.

 

Does anyone know the part-number and/or if it's possible to get a non-oem part with better wiring online?