Hey all,

 

Noticed my Octavia getting a little boomier on the rough and bumps than I would like - oddly I am noticing it more as time passes, so I don't know if it is getting worse or I am getting more sensitive to it!

 

I will be Dynamating the trunk soon enough and adding some sound proofing, but I did want to check my boot seal was as tight as it should be to see if that helped.

 

I have seen the guides on adjusting the latch forward/backwards for the manual trunk...does it work the same for the power boot? Is there even any point or is it "self tensioning?:

 

Cheers

Bueller...Beuller....Beuller..?

Hi Item,

 

I guess it does not matter electric or manual...first check if your boot door moves a bit when closed / if it has some play. You can try to adjust stoppers to get it tighter and/or adjust the lock (the lug part on the body not the lid mechanism). It's all been covered in the longish "boom" post.

 

Other thing that wouldn't hurt (but may not help either lol) is some gasket maintenance - use a proper glycerin/fat dedicated to car gasket maintenance; usually sold as a stick or a bottle with sponge looking like shoe polish.

 

As for the deadening - I've heard Dynamats are good indeed, but there are other alternatives, not worse, that deliver just a small fraction of pain to your wallet compared to Dynamat.

I just found a great www showing what can be done and materials used:

http://www.ahifi.cz/clanky/detail/skoda-octavia-3-rs-stredne-narocne-odhlucneni.htm

Great source of inspiration for tinkerers;)

I'll be doing door, boot and wheel arches for sure. Just need a bit time - Sept earliest I guess. Then I can give the feedback.

 

There is one more material (similar to GLADEN AERO MULTI) used by guys from above link. It's a multilayer mat called GMS 03. The point is that butyl/bitument mats or foam alone as most people do, address only half of the problem, while those 2 seem like a comprehensive, all-in-one solution.

Cheers wlange - I didn't want to damage the mechanism by tightening the latch if it wasn't the right way to go about things with the power lid, but I guess it won't hurt to try?

 

Thanks for the other link as well - useful!

 

I am wondering, given that the Dynamat is mass-loading rather than sound-proofing how much benefit there is in lining the entire boot floor? In theory it should deliver a result few strategically placed pieces? Was definitely going to do wheel well and then see how it went from there.

This video highlights what I mean about the Dynamat effect and not needing full coverage

 

You need to do few things: put extra weight on the sheet metal to reduce its specific frequency (butyl), dampen the noise (foam and/or liner like 3M Acoustic Insulation), create a heavy barrier (lead or MLV) which some people say is the essential part and again decouple it if necessary (foam).

Other very good resource I found: https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

All in all there are different approaches.

My plan is to do

1. trunk - butyl on the part surface + foam; liner is a barrier already if you ask me - just need to decouple it. Optionally use the multilayer as shown before.

2. door - similar as the Czech page, but adding extra liner just under the panel. Maximum option would be to do the 3-layer cake liner on the inside section with MLV in between.

3. wheel arches (plastic) - multilayer from the outside (or 3 layer combo) + undercoating from inside (e.g. 3M 03584) to reduce splashing noise. All assisted by extra Alubutyl from inside the car on metal arches.

4. Hood - maybe...

 

A small correction - GMS03 is 3 layers (butyl-alu-foam)

Edited 9 June, 201610 yr by wlange