Afternoon All,

 

I'm getting a rattle on idle that silences when I depress the clutch. Is this a sign of early gearbox troubles of just the clutch heading towards end of life?

 

Any one had the gearbox oil changed?

 

Any one had the EGR valve cleaned? See one of my other threads but in a nut shell have a very intermittent hesitation on light acceleration and had it stall and refuse to start a few weeks back.

 

Car is 2009, 2.0 TD CR 170, 2wd, manual, twindoor.

 

Thanks,

 

Wesley.

On my PD140 Octavia it was around £850 all in at an independent. Parts cost was around £400 for the clutch and flywheel. I could have got it only a bit cheaper at ECP or similar

Ouch. Any one any experience of going from DMF to solid?

Dont convert to solid....
Used to do this to Octavia taxis in the olden days  and the vibration afterwards was terrible and not at all the same to drive  

That's fair enough, thanks for letting me know. That would bother me!

What are the signs of impending clutch failure on these engines? I'm not noticing any slip once off the clutch pedal.

A rattle while in neutral at idle that goes away when the clutch is pressed sounds like a failing DMF - have a look on youtube for videos you can compare the sound to. Given the age of the car it's likely that the clutch will be near the end of its life unless your mileage is very low anyway. Replacing a DMF with a Single Mass Flywheel on common rail engines is risky. Unlike the PD engines before them where swapping to SMF barely made a difference, the CR engines were designed for DMF from the beginning so the engine parts were never designed to take the extra shocks and vibrations absorbed by the DMF. The benefits are lighter parts so the engine can rev more freely and weighs less, giving better engine efficiency (Until they sabotaged outright efficiency and reliability with emission reduction systems anyway).

 

I had my clutch and DMF replaced earlier this year after the clutch slave cylinder (Which is inside the clutch housing) failed. Since the labour was almost the same for just replacing the slave cylinder and the car was already on well over 100k miles, I had the whole lot replaced. It came in at €1500 at a main dealer (In Ireland). The car had a full main dealer service history when I bought it, so I figured it was worth hanging on to for possible comeback on issues outside warranty and for trade-in/resale value. That and I don't know of any trustworthy independent mechanics local to me.

Any reason why it would be quieter when warm? Is it simply engine running smoother?

Mileage is approaching 215,000 on the orginal clutch at the moment.

It's a £2000 service that would be curtains for my ownership of the car as that's what I'd loose on it's replacement in the first year.

Edited 13 June, 201610 yr by WesBrooks

Mine was noisier when cold and it was during winter months I noticed my DMF was on its way out.

So had it replaced last month; just over £700 Lion Garage Leicester VAG specialist.

Mine is same engine as yours but DSG and had done 130,000 miles.

Looking at the old DMF it could have lasted many more miles, but I don't like the risks.

It has smoothed out the occasional jerkiness when putting in drive as well so needed doing.

215k is very good mileage for clutch and dmf and I would get it looked at as if it fails completely it can take out the gear box as well.

At 215,000 miles this is almost certainly the DMF.

215k is very good mileage for clutch and dmf and I would get it looked at as if it fails completely it can take out the gear box as well.

 

£2000 repair on our PD140 is a testament to that! I learnt to drive around the issue rather than getting it fixed (busy at work - didn't have the money at the time). Took out the main input shaft bearing.

Is it a complete engine out or just shift it just enough?

If engine out I maybe tempted to get egr valve cleaned and water pump and cam belt sorted at same time.

Have given long consideration to an Elegance 1.6TDI estate but that'd be about £8-9k for an ex lease with 100k miles on the clock and probably back on finance again.

Just the gearbox out.

Could be the clutch release bearing rattling, push the clutch peddle down slightly and see if the rattle goes away

Edited 15 June, 201610 yr by skippy41

What is the order of preference for the clutch manufacturers? Which is OEM?

 

Is it 1 Sachs, 2 Luk, 3 other no-names?

Other manufacturers I've seen:

 

Valeo, NK, Kager.

Just spotted you asked about the gearbox oil change too. The work I had done includes this oil change as well - I was planning to do it before the clutch cylinder went as after 100k miles I figured even sealed for life oil like the gearbox has could do with changing. There was no very obvious difference in the gear change after the oil was replaced, it may have been slightly smoother, but certainly not a night and day difference, but there was nothing wrong with it before either.

I thought I'd seen something on the forums about the Sachs clutchs having a design flaw issue, which wasn't present on the LUKs clutches - could be wrong though...

I've been quoted £652 for DMF, clutch, and clutch cylinder. I'll be booking it in for next week.

 

Selector Gearbox in Speke (South of Liverpool, not far from the airport).

That's a very good price as I've been quoted £750 for my octy.

Argh. Bearing spinning in the case on the input shaft and heavy wear on selectors. Waiting on revised quote...