So, we fitted the Audi S3 pump and a SFS TIP, but it didn't cured the problem... Leaves MAF or Actuator? Could the larger airflow due to the bigger TIP cause the MAF now to be too much air and going out of range?

So, we fitted the Audi S3 pump and a SFS TIP, but it didn't cured the problem... Leaves MAF or Actuator? Could the larger airflow due to the bigger TIP cause the MAF now to be too much air and going out of range?

I doubt it... I have an SFS TIP , and standard MAF is working fine.....

Maybe because my MAF is old? Don't know if it is or could affect. Afaik there weren't any logged issues on vagcom...

The car was on the rollers again. The operator performed some extra resistance runs to replicate the issue, but unfortunately it was smooth as hell on the dyno... Anyway this is the result. Luckily all the other fluttering dips are gone compared to the previous run a few week ago.

That graph does look a lot better, could try a new genuine maf. I'd certainly try that before the actuator as they are a pig to get at and swap out. My local garage basically refused to do mine. A maf that's iffy and not throwing codes can often be responsible for a kind of flatness or lack of oomph that is otherwise tricky to pinpoint...

Might also be worth noting you're 10bhp up on before...is there much wrong with it? Considering you have a 210bhp map I reckon it's there or thereabouts. If a generic map is put on cars rarely make the claimed number. I had 220 map and made 205 with a cold air feed and uprated smic.

Yes, you're right! There is nothing wrong with the numbers now showing up and the results are what you would expect with this mileage and maintenance being done. But most important: the lines are now flutter free! It drives well too, feels fast, but only downside is a hesitation at 5500 rpm and another one around 5800 rpm the last 2 gears, like it can't react fast enough on the throttle movements when flooring it from let's say 4-4500 rpm...

Hhmmm What spark plugs are you running? You could try cleaning a few sensors like the intake temp (carb cleaner is fine) and the maf (isopropyl alcohol).

Hesitations like that can be a nightmare to pinpoint, just a case of working off a list and ruling things out. I don't envy you.

New OEM plugs gapped to 0.7. Will try the cleaning...

When you say oem are they the recommended platinum ngk? You could try the copper core ngk ones, many have found these more preferable with a remap as they dissipate heat a little better at the top end. They're cheap too.

When you say oem are they the recommended platinum ngk? You could try the copper core ngk ones, many have found these more preferable with a remap as they dissipate heat a little better at the top end. They're cheap too.

Yes, the platinum ones, from the dealer... Could try later...

Yes, the platinum ones, from the dealer... Could try later...

Yeah platinum are good plugs for standard, try the copper for your mods, think they're BKR7E iirc

What are your intake temps doing? What cooler do you have? Could it be the ecu retarding timing above 36 degrees?

It could still be too hot, but we can rule out a faulty sensor as we tried one from a Ibiza which didn't cured the problem... :-(

At the top end of the Rev range you can also get TIP collapse if nothing has been done to increase airflow into and through the airbox. You won't get it standard but with a remap it's possible. Lots will say it doesn't happen but mine used to drop off like it was hitting a wall until I improved the airflow, now it goes right round to 6500 rpm

How did you improved the airbox?

Next on the the suspicious list are spark plugs, crankshaft position sensor or about any faulty connector...

How did you improved the airbox?

Pikey mod wackbox, drill some holes in the bottom, or feed a fat 80mm pipe into it from the duct behind the bottom corner grill in the front bumper, instead of that squashed pipe from the inner wing. There's a guide round here somewhere.

Or get a cone/cai set up. Former options are the cheapest.

Plus a oversized TIP as mentioned.

I should imagine they're your main options.

How did you improved the airbox?

I fitted a couple of extra air inlets by running pipes to the wing and ceiling into the box. All mounted with proper glands. I used the corrugated plastic that I use for CCTV cable junctions. As well as that I did some defining inside. Upshot is the airflow is greater as the area is increased so no more problems with to much inlet vacuum causing collapse. Not worth bothering with CAI and filter as the standard filters flow well enough o CE the airbox is sorted. And they are cheaper.

Ok, will search for that, I do have an on oversized TIP before the last rolling road session.

We also have to do a smoke test to be sure... I also read about the crankshaft positioning sensor, but today I was driving like mad and quite the brickwall at some points, but still no error code! Damn Skoda's!

Yes, you're right! There is nothing wrong with the numbers now showing up and the results are what you would expect with this mileage and maintenance being done. But most important: the lines are now flutter free! It drives well too, feels fast, but only downside is a hesitation at 5500 rpm and another one around 5800 rpm the last 2 gears, like it can't react fast enough on the throttle movements when flooring it from let's say 4-4500 rpm...

 

Mine does something very similar, in 3rd at 5.5k and again at 6k.. I logged intercooler temp and it was up at 65c, so somethings up.. maybe a new cooler is needed, or it's blocked or similar.. again I have new plugs, coilpacks, fuel filter too.. mine is mapped too..

Too bad I don't have gauges for those, as I would like to know for myself. A real shame, you can't connect gauges to the ECU as apparently thing are measured but not displayed. Will have to ask that mate of mine again. From Yellow Car I also read in another topic that wires to the coilpackes become brittle, so that could be a matter too...