I'm mostly very happy with my 6 month old O3 SE-L but not with the sound from the tweeter in the doors!!

 

To my ears, there is a significant peak in the high frequency response which I find unpleasant especially when it sets off my tinnitus.

 

I have tried adjusting the treble level but it seems to be tuned to frequencies lower than this apparent peak.

 

Placing my hand between me and the tweeter reduces this peak to a reasonable level but I can't drive very far like that ;-))

 

Has anyone else experienced this problem?  And if so, how have you fixed it?  Anyone replaced the tweeters with aftermarket versions?

 

Any help would be appreciated, including how to remove the tweeter cover/surround without damaging it.

 

Many thanks

Keith

 

There is an issue with the capacitor fitted in series with the tweeter. They are cheap components but you have to solder them on, and getting to them is difficult.

 

See here:

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/390360-guide-removing-front-door-card-octavia-mk3-including-changing-tweeter-capacitor-for-better-sound/

Thanks for that TDIum.

 

Changing the capacitor seems a good idea, just need to work out how to get in.  The link you provided appears to be for a tweeter mounted in/behind the door board.  

 

Mine are above the door board in the angle of the window, level with the mirror.  Perhaps I have to take the door board off first to get at this but I would have thought it would be easier than that!  Anyone?

 

Keith

In the front you have to get the door card off first (but can leave it connected), then the small plastic trim pops off the door with the tweeter plastic-bonded to the back. 

 

In the back the tweeter is plastic-bonded to the door card itself. 

TDIum>

 

Thanks for info on getting to the tweeter. 

 

Do you know whether the capacitor in in series with the tweeter? 

 

In the absence of other components it seems likely, in which case it is forming a high pass filter together with the impedance of the tweeter itself.  The purpose of this is to reduce the output from the tweeter of frequencies handled by the mid-range/woofer units. 

 

In the linked article, the capacitor is 6.8µF which together with the 4 Ohms impedance of the tweeter gives an fc (cut-off frequency -6dB) of 5.851 kHz.  This is high compared with a hifi speaker but reasonable. 

 

The article says the capacitor was replaced with one of value 3.3µF which would increase the fc to around 12 kHz.  This would clearly reduce the output from the tweeter but not across the entire band, i.e. up to the limit of the tweeter/hearing around 20 kHz.

 

Having thought about it, I don't think the capacitor replacement modification is what I require.  But thanks for the pointer.

 

Anybody else tried to address this issue?  Or am I the only one with it?

 

Cheers

Keith

Yes it is in series. Your maths is right and you are using the correct formula. But have a look on Wikipedia about loudspeaker impedance. 

 

I can tell you from experience the system sounds much better with smaller tweeter caps than the 6.8uF whoppers fitted in the factory. 

Hello 

 

Is there any conclusion and suggestion for handling mids and high properly. I am in same boat and ranging from adding a dsp or changing speakers or after market unit is on table however what i dont understand is how current Amundsen MIB2 is tuned or providing range of frequency signals on each channel.

Based on part searched the mids and tweeter cost is cheap ( which is absolutely fine and infarct encouraging since sound is pretty decent), that means by tweaking or minor adjustment a relative improvement can be done if we understand current setup well

I also researched Dynaudio setup in VW Europe cars, which everyone seems to like, but cost of speakers in really high which i assume means a good quality cones and coils but what i want to know is crossovers and tuning how much that alone helps or makes a difference in that setup. If i am not after that kinds of cost for speakers(i lose dynamic subtle details for sure but fine) from any brand can i get a decent lift in SQ and sound stage using filters/crossovers and dsp techniques, but it all depends also on knowing well the freq response of current/stock or after market speakers(which are easily available then what is stock speakers, as i cant find a technical specs yet or wiring diagram of stock setup as commented above)

you should be able to purchase an active crossover to handle the tweeter output, sundown do one with -3db/0db/+3db 

If you want real improvement in sound quality you will need to change the speakers and likely add and amp and a line convert high to low level like an LC7i 

Reviving this thread as had the the exact same issue as the OP with the my Amundsen MIB2 and the front tweeters on my 16 plate being extremely harsh and unbearable to listen to at high volume. There was an overpowering emphasis on sibilance which would make some radio stations unbearable to listen to.

 

I intially tried the inbuilt EQ to to fix the issues, but being limited to only 3 bands I was never happy with the outcome.

 

As I wanted a quick fix and didn't want to take the doors apart to change the capacitors as others have mentioned, or change the speakers, I stumbled across the Match DSP plug and play range with car specific sound setup files. 

 

I settled on the Match pp52dsp, set this up with the sound setup file recieved from the company for my estate without a subwoofer hoping all my issues would be fixed. 

 

The sound was a lot better, but the harshness was not addressed, which was the main issue I wanted to fix.

 

After intially thinking I had wasted a couple hundred on this DSP, I took the plunge into setting it up myself using its parametric EQ. I got my hands on a calibrated microphone (Dayton UMM6) and learnt how to use Room EQ Wizard to calculate the EQ I would need to add to the DSP.

 

Attached are pics of the mic recordings before and after adding the suggested EQ on just the front speakers. As you can see there is a significant peak above 10kHz which was the culprit making the sound unbearable.

 

Since setting up the DSP manually, I am overwhelmed with how good factory speakers sound in the car! They are now enjoyable to listen to.

 

So if anybody does find this thread due to similar issues, a custom tuned DSP has totally fixed it for me! 

 

Before EQ

 

After EQ

 

Comparison of Both

Edited 25 August, 20196 yr by Marshy33

This is super interesting Marshy33! I have a M5DSP and have been trying to tame the sound with the built in EQ/DSP tool software. I'd love to try with a calibrated mic (your Dayton or UMIK-1) but can't find a reasonably priced usb one. I've tried with the mic from my Marantz amp (used by their room EQ setup) but can't get it right really with the Fischer DSP tool. I ended up with a large treble roll-off and boosting bass a bit. Sadly there aren't any working setup files for the M5DSP on the Fischer site and I knew I'd have to tune myself manually.

 

Did you test using pink noise? Any good guides for using REW?

 

I recently got a Pioneer TS-WX130DA underseat sub to try and fill out the missing midbass/bass but haven't had a chance to tune yet. 

On 07/05/2020 at 17:38, rossinio said:

This is super interesting Marshy33! I have a M5DSP and have been trying to tame the sound with the built in EQ/DSP tool software. I'd love to try with a calibrated mic (your Dayton or UMIK-1) but can't find a reasonably priced usb one. I've tried with the mic from my Marantz amp (used by their room EQ setup) but can't get it right really with the Fischer DSP tool. I ended up with a large treble roll-off and boosting bass a bit. Sadly there aren't any working setup files for the M5DSP on the Fischer site and I knew I'd have to tune myself manually.

 

Did you test using pink noise? Any good guides for using REW?

 

I recently got a Pioneer TS-WX130DA underseat sub to try and fill out the missing midbass/bass but haven't had a chance to tune yet. 

Wow only just seen this, only a year late.

 

But yes I did use pink noise. I probably have the tutorials somewhere on my laptop.

 

Basically you can use REW to do all the hard work and then input the changes into the dsp tool.