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Some clarification plz!

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MAF sensors are tragedy. Some last long time, some are gone after one year. I already changed three on my Fabia.

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  • Damn - was hoping it was that, change the bloody thing and stop thinking bout it!!+ Thanks mike

  • ECU maps are related to engine load/pedal   so called Driver wish map...unless you have some 1.4-1.6TDi car...you rarely get full boost.   1400kg Octavia 2 with 103kW requires about 200Nm for high

  • read the post...most likely faulty MAF ;-)   Original turbo cost 14k CZK, which is around 500GBP ;-)  Original turbo with sealing set cost 1000GBP (no idea what sort of o-rings, sealing you get) so

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Yea i dont know man - when i unplug it it doesn't really change much except for some stuttering at lower revs. But the same issue with underboost etc is still present.

Yea i dont know man - when i unplug it it doesn't really change much except for some stuttering at lower revs. But the same issue with underboost etc is still present.

there you have answer to your problem ;-) exactly as my Fabia...doesn't matter whether MAF on/off - always dead without power

 

dead MAF ;-)

 

I can't find in ELSA what air flow should be there.

Try to wash MAF first in warm water with some dish cleaning rubbish. Sometimes it is just dirty, most of time it is just dead.

 

Replace it with original, they last longer than refurbished or 3rd party MAF sensors.

  • Author

But i did buy an original bosch maf with the same part number etc etc. It was over the net, so not @ skoda or whatever but the guy offered 12months warranty.

I dnt see y he would offer warranty if it was a dud...

Plus wouldnt it throw a code other than p0299??

Anyways - as i mentioned ill try get a 100% working one and try that

I had also BOSCH, first was gone after a year. Second after a half year. Doesn't matter. How do you prove it is broken? it is word game.

 

Sadly, it doesn't give you any codes. It simply has no power.

 

Simply clean it or get new one. You can always return it within a week or so.

  • Author

Hey guys,

So went to get the vacuum side of things checked out and all is ok, vacuum good.

Then they blocked of the egr and..... no limp mode pullint normally. Diagnostics state requested around the 2000-2100 and turbo making 1900-2000.

So all in all sounds like my prob is EGR even though it holds vacuum and is 100% clean..

Must admit - still (a little) skeptical but, not sure why.

reduce EGR duty cycle or get someone who can switch it off...it is useless rubbish, which reduces emissions only on paper. In real life you need more fuel to get same job done as without EGR and more power. Have you ever seen burning wood without oxygen?

 

once again, EGR <> MAF are related ;-) EGR problems are usually MAF fault ;-)

  • Author

When we blocked off the egr, the maf readings were higher. With egr connected it was around 400-450 and with it disconnected it was up 500+.

Wouldn't this indicate that the maf is functioning???

I have no idea when it gets to numbers and limits/readings etc....im jus goin off what i saw on the lappy

I would LOVE to cancel the whole crap system, but the d*ckheads @ VW diagnosed my EGR cooler faulty, so i changed it (400EUR later) and turned out my original one was perfectly fine....

So as ive already popped $$ on that might aswell buy a new egr n tick that worry of the list.....

EGR on = less fresh air = lower MAF readings

 

VAG certified idiots are great for replacing whole car but they have no idea what they do. It cost lots of money but car still doesn't work...I rather learnt to repair cars myself ;-)

 

 

My Fabia had faulty MAF...I wasn't at parents house so they went to my friends garage. He wanted to replace EGR and half of the car. It was simply MAF, which was giving faulty values and EGR went banana. Car without power. EU standard

 

My ex-Fabia had completely dead MAF even at idle. Yours seems to be ok at idle but fails later on.

 

Boost = mass air flow. If ECU reads faulty air mass - ECU calibration maps tell ECU to reduce boost because there is "officially" not enough air in manifold !!!

 

I'm still convinced you have dying MAF.

  • Author

You do make logical and perfect sense....well while i got my a** bent over il get the egr & new maf and if that fails..... a pistol

get someone who can switch off EGR...then you don't need to worry about it anymore

  • Author

Yea true that....

Quick qn : Bosch or Pierburg MAF??

Any difference ( apart from the price here where i am)

Hello guys, i've got the same problem like alevuc, i checked everything, i change the actuator, clean the dpf , egr, valves , pipes and still P0299 underboost pressure turbo/supercharger.Vw dealer said i need new turbo and now makes a strange noise at 2000 rpm when I release the pedal.I don't no what to do .. Change the turbo or not? Is about £1400 to put new one.

Bosch is original OEM...price in Czech Republic 80€

 

I know some guys purchase old ones and refurbish them...maybe for precious metal content

 

Both have warranty...Bosch is dodgy as well. Hard to say. I always buy original, they tend to last longer with less problems. I count everything including my expensive time ;-)

 

few € saved are in few hours gone in my case. I get high quality and don't look back

Hello guys, i've got the same problem like alevuc, i checked everything, i change the actuator, clean the dpf , egr, valves , pipes and still P0299 underboost pressure turbo/supercharger.Vw dealer said i need new turbo and now makes a strange noise at 2000 rpm when I release the pedal.I don't no what to do .. Change the turbo or not? Is about £1400 to put new one.

read the post...most likely faulty MAF ;-)

 

Original turbo cost 14k CZK, which is around 500GBP ;-)  Original turbo with sealing set cost 1000GBP (no idea what sort of o-rings, sealing you get) so get some real dealer and not thieves !!!

  • Author

I agree with original etc and go for that whenever i can.....went for original this time n it looks like it screwed me...

Hence why im opting for pierburg, its a HEll of a lot cheaper here n if it solves my issue once and for all then when it does die ill go original Bosch and be done with it!!!

  • Author

Marius - see Snipers notes!!!

Everything that i encountered is in the thread and was given great explanations from Sniper.

I agree with original etc and go for that whenever i can.....went for original this time n it looks like it screwed me...

Hence why im opting for pierburg, its a HEll of a lot cheaper here n if it solves my issue once and for all then when it does die ill go original Bosch and be done with it!!!

My Fabia had twice Bosch and they died within a year or two anyway so if 3rd party works...why not :-D

  • Author

Well yea thats kinda my angle of approach lol.

The pierburg is bout 50eur, whereas the bosch is about 150eur....

Thanks guy's , i don't really know what to do .. I spend lots of money for nothing , basically the car is the same! When I'm driving the car , I pressed the pedal to go in reves( goes to about 2200 -2500 reves) and after verry hardly goes up, right and when i feel that is going verry hard in reves , i just release the pedal a little bit and when I press it back .. It goes really well , verry quik

Is just that sound when the car is parked and i reve it to about 2200 rpm , releasing the pedal is making a really strange noise and don't know from where is coming, but definitely behind the engine.

  • Author

I had a different issue as mine would trip the computer and put it in safe mode...

From what i understand, yours doesnt..??

Coil light flashes and engine management light is on

And after straight in limp mode

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