Our Superb mk3 currently has a single coat of BH DSW and I love it. I only applied it as a stop gap measure after the last wash, but I've fallen in love with it. However, with the weather starting to turn my thoughts are brooding on the impending winter and what's best for the car. I have a sample pot of FK1000p ready for the alloys, and BH DSW for the paintwork. I know 1000p is decent in its own right and I could do the whole car, but I like the warm glow under the hard shine that DSW seems to add to the petrol blue colour, and 1000p is obviously a pure synthetic sealant minus the carnauba. 

 

I need to do a full prep, clay and light machine polish beforehand, as the paint has collected a fair bit of bonded contaminants in the last six months since we took delivery. My plans are strip the wax off (strong APC followed by Gyeon Prep or diluted IPA), wash the car and then clay, followed by Dodo Lime Prime on a CG green hex pad with the DA. 

 

My question is, I have a new bottle of Menzerna Power Lock sitting in the cupboard and I'm not sure whether to put this on first before the wax? I know most say sealants for winter and wax for summer, but my experience with (spray on) sealants isn't great and I not only like the look DSW gives, but I trust it to last three months or so over the bad weather. For best longevity and protection over the worst of winter, will I be better off just putting a couple of layers of DSW onto prepared paint, or will I be better off overall applying Power Lock first and then layering the wax on top? I'll be using Mitchell & King QD for maintenance, which does help keep the wax topped up slightly.

 

TIA.

Hello Rainmaker,

 

In my experience with BH DSW it will be extremely durable on its own and will outlast the winter with 2-3 coats. It is particularly detergent resistant too so will stand up to harsher washing which may occur during the winter to remove road salt etc. 

 

Make sure you wipe down after your lime prime for maximum durability.

 

For me I would stick with purely DSW. 

Hello Rainmaker,

 

In my experience with BH DSW it will be extremely durable on its own and will outlast the winter with 2-3 coats. It is particularly detergent resistant too so will stand up to harsher washing which may occur during the winter to remove road salt etc. 

 

Make sure you wipe down after your lime prime for maximum durability.

 

For me I would stick with purely DSW. 

 

Thanks mate, that's pretty much confirmed what I thought. I am aware the Lime Prime leaves behind 'oils' which are meant to add to the look of the finished article, but will obviously affect bonding in exchange. So a good scrub with Lime Prime, then Gyeon Prep to wipe down before waxing. Sound about right?

Thanks mate, that's pretty much confirmed what I thought. I am aware the Lime Prime leaves behind 'oils' which are meant to add to the look of the finished article, but will obviously affect bonding in exchange. So a good scrub with Lime Prime, then Gyeon Prep to wipe down before waxing. Sound about right?

 

Sounds a great plan - it really is a great wax with exceptional beading!

Worth a read

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=380063

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=85205

Edited 14 September, 20169 yr by malcster

Worth a read

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=380063

 

Thanks very much, I'll give it a good read.

2nd link added

Well I got there in the end!

 

Yesterday, ten hours (got carried away, started at 10am and didn't even stop once for a drink/ciggy/pee... Then it went dark. Oops!):

 

BH snow foam

TBW with AG Bodywork Shampoo

BH Korrosol

Gyeon Tar

CG yellow clay (bodywork, bumpers, glass and alloys)

DA with CG Hex Green and Dodo Lime Prime

Gyeon Prep wipe down

BH DSW (bodywork, lights and bumpers)

 

Today, four hours:

 

BH snow foam

TBW with AG Bodywork Shampoo

Dry with CG Wooly Mammoth (still not impressed with it, too linty and streaky)

Second coat with BH DSW for the bodywork/bumpers/lights

FK1000p for the alloys

CarPlan Tyre Slyk for the tyre dressing (I prefer it to my Megs Endurance!)

Thorough vacuum inside

Sonax Cockpit Cleaner

Halfords Glass Cleaner

 

Ta da!

 

 

I need a holiday... I'll machine the front and rear screens and apply my Gtechniq C3 at some point, but tbh it looks fiddly so I might grab some Aquapel or something. Either way the flake pop is immense, the paint is practically alive and it really does (finally) look the business. I will add a third layer of wax in a few weeks (either Dodo PH or FK1000p) to make sure it's all watertight when the real weather starts kicking in, but other than that I'm happy.

 

Thumbs up to Lime Prime btw, which was tremendously good at removing >95% of the swirls (I think the heavy polishing green pad helped) with no hassle at all. It got rid of 100% of the awful rotary buffer trails the body shop kindly left all over the C pillars, and it also restored the glossy black trim on the B pillars to brand new. I'm in love with the stuff! It's so easy to work, stays oily for absolutely ages and you can work it a lot faster than full on polish. Hats off to Dodo, it's a good product. Now, where's my beer?

Edited 16 September, 20169 yr by Rainmaker

Well I got there in the end!

Yesterday, ten hours (got carried away, started at 10am and didn't even stop once for a drink/ciggy/pee... Then it went dark. Oops!):

BH snow foam

TBW with AG Bodywork Shampoo

BH Korrosol

Gyeon Tar

CG yellow clay (bodywork, bumpers, glass and alloys)

DA with CG Hex Green and Dodo Lime Prime

Gyeon Prep wipe down

BH DSW (bodywork, lights and bumpers)

Today, four hours:

BH snow foam

TBW with AG Bodywork Shampoo

Dry with CG Wooly Mammoth (still not impressed with it, too linty and streaky)

Second coat with BH DSW for the bodywork/bumpers/lights

FK1000p for the alloys

CarPlan Tyre Slyk for the tyre dressing (I prefer it to my Megs Endurance!)

Thorough vacuum inside

Sonax Cockpit Cleaner

Halfords Glass Cleaner

Ta da!

I need a holiday... I'll machine the front and rear screens and apply my Gtechniq C3 at some point, but tbh it looks fiddly so I might grab some Aquapel or something. Either way the flake pop is immense, the paint is practically alive and it really does (finally) look the business. I will add a third layer of wax in a few weeks (either Dodo PH or FK1000p) to make sure it's all watertight when the real weather starts kicking in, but other than that I'm happy.

Thumbs up to Lime Prime btw, which was tremendously good at removing >95% of the swirls (I think the heavy polishing green pad helped) with no hassle at all. It got rid of 100% of the awful rotary buffer trails the body shop kindly left all over the C pillars, and it also restored the glossy black trim on the B pillars to brand new. I'm in love with the stuff! It's so easy to work, stays oily for absolutely ages and you can work it a lot faster than full on polish. Hats off to Dodo, it's a good product. Now, where's my beer?

Great write up, even greater result, bravo! Looking at the list of products you used I run very similar, a great fan of the BH stuff.

Big fan of the hexpads

Recently moved on to the quantum pads