Hi all. I used to be a member of this site but sold my old SKODA about a year ago and went onto two wheels. I am now back with a SKODA OCTAVIA GLXi (R Plate). So I have had to re-register again on this site.

Anyway. I have a problem with my rear pasenger window. It basically will not open or close and has sunk into the door frame, and can not be retreived. The motor still sounds like it is working but I get no movement from the window. Before it actually broke there was a slight grinding sound from the window as it opened and closed.

Basically can someone tell me if it is an easy job to re set the window onto the runner in the frame, as I suspect it has just been thrown off. I still think the motor is ok. What tools will I need to get the trim off the door etc.

Thanks for any advice, which is urgently needed as my window is open and I have no garage!! The Skoda Dealer near me does not have a service centre open until monday! So if I can fix it before hand I would prefer it.

i'm afraid the winder mechanism will have to be replaced (common problem)

Likely cost, K?

Had same problem with the drivers window on a Polo, the cable broke, it was easy enough to do the job, if a bit fiddly in places

dunno if its same system/principal on Skoda though, or even on rear

Originally posted by DGW in this post

Likely cost, K?

about 45 squids for mechanism 1/2 to 1hr labour (depending on fitters speed) i can do in 20 mins.

Thanks, K. Do you book the time you take for the job or what the book says? Or is this a very unfair question?

(You can PM me the answers if you prefer......)

Originally posted by DGW in this post

Thanks, K. Do you book the time you take for the job or what the book says? Or is this a very unfair question?

(You can PM me the answers if you prefer......)

no comment

Cheers guys.

The cars under warranty, so I am hoping I can get it fixed that way.

Ta

Mark

Mine chewed the cable up when frost gripped the window. The window is operated by an nedless bowden cable under tension. When cable jumps its guides it nomally kinks the cable making it unusable. You have to have the complete system, i.e motor and guides etc. I had mine done under warranty and I think the mechanism on its own was nearly