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Moved a few yards - then wouldn't start !

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I am fully aware that modern petrol cars dont "like" being run too briefly and then then not used, having read some warning tales.  But despite this a few days ago I was in a bit of a hurry and just moved the Yeti a few yards to make space to get another car out,  I then let it run for maybe 30 seconds thinking that would be enough.

 

MISTAKE

 

Two days later I came to start up, and it wouldn't fire at all, despite vigorous cranking (the battery is fine).  Not a hint of any firing or spitting. After 4 or 5 long failed attempts, instinct made me try the old trick for flooded engines from carburettor days of cranking with the accelerator pedal fully down to blow some air through. After a long long long crank, plus a little waggling the throttle as well, it finally spitted and spluttered and eventually ran clean.  Clouds of grey smoke and a strong smell of unburnt petrol ensued.  It now runs absolutely normally.

 

I can only assume that residual fuel somewhere in the system from the first brief period of running combined with the second dose of cold start enrichment and fouled the plugs or catalyst something.  I'm also not sure how a drive-by-wire throttle responds if you floor the accelerator pedal whilst cranking. No warning lights seen during or after this abberation.  Weather was cold (6 degrees).

 

So be warned, if you have to shuffle a petrol car in the driveway, let it run for a few minutes and maybe rev up a few times to settle it down before leaving it.

Moving a car is an everyday reality for many, with all the sensors reporting all aspects to the ECU management system, so I'd report this event to your dealer as a fault.

I am fully aware that modern petrol cars dont "like" being run too briefly and then then not used, having read some warning tales.  But despite this a few days ago I was in a bit of a hurry and just moved the Yeti a few yards to make space to get another car out,  I then let it run for maybe 30 seconds thinking that would be enough.

I have never heard that before. What does them no good at all is leaving them ticking over to warm up, they are designed to be driven as soon as started to get oil moving and the engine up to temperature.

If a car does not start instantly there is something wrong, plug leads, plugs, coils or something else.

I have not had a car that was difficult to start in the last 40 years.

Damp still affects petrol engines, I still have the remains of a can of ether start

that I used to use while working shift. Stopping 500yds up the road for a paper,

on wet days could result in a difficult restarting. When we moved house the car

lived in a garage from then on.

There are many sensors any one of which can fail at any time and give similar symptoms - it needs diagnostic analysis usually not cheap

Damp still affects petrol engines,

Not if everything is in good condition.

I am fully aware that modern petrol cars dont "like" being run too briefly and then then not used, having read some warning tales. 

I remember it being stated in the media (when catalytic exhaust systems were first introduced) that starting a cold petrol engine and then turning it off immediately results in neat petrol/vapour remaining in the cat box, which apparently speeds their demise? I don't know whether this was and is still true with modern cars?

 

Jim

My sister-in-law had exactly the same problem with a Fiesta. She called a mechanic who got it started by the 'pedal to the floor' system, he told her that this was not an infrequent problem with modern cars and it was better to run the car for a few minutes after starting rather than start - move- switch off. Since taking his advice she has had no further problems and dealer found nothing on the computer check at a recent service. Apart from this the car has never caused a moments problem.

My sister-in-law had exactly the same problem with a Fiesta. She called a mechanic who got it started by the 'pedal to the floor' system,

That only works if a car is flooded by usually by over-cranking an engine with a problem or with a carburettor and someone has been pumping the pedal and over choking it.

That only works if a car is flooded by usually by over-cranking an engine with a problem or with a carburettor and someone has been pumping the pedal and over choking it.

Okay - but it worked for Austin 7 and it worked for my sister-in-law, so what's going on?

Okay - but it worked for Austin 7 and it worked for my sister-in-law, so what's going on?

You missed the post you were answering?

You missed the post you were answering?

Crossed posting. Sorry.

I've not had any issue with the yeti but plenty of other cars in the past have struggled to re-start if they have done a cold start > few yards move > stop sequence. Hence why I always make a point of driving the car the 1.5 miles "around the block" even if I just wanted to move it from the drive to the footpath, or simply move it from one space to the next.

 

Probably explains why I have never had any issue with the Yeti as it's never done the "cold shuffle"!

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