hello all.

I bought fabia mk2 yesterday. mileage is 45k. from reading this forum I found out that there are issues with this engine: egr, dpf, sensors.

any other common faults and what are symptoms?

I read when egr fails, it needs to be replaced, as seal around actuator is damaged and fumes damaged sensor. question- is it possible to fix egr, replace seal and sensor?

I am just now thinking if I've done correct choice and gone for fabia mk2.

regards

What is really important is the type of journeys you do. If your do long enough trips to get the engine warmed up your car will run fine. Short trips and sitting in queues at tick over are not good for this car.

Edited 24 November, 20169 yr by m8t

does anyone know how long takes dpf regeneration and also, does skoda have passive and active regeneration, like audi?

I do 10 miles to my workplace, for audi that was enough to do regenerations.

Edited 24 November, 20169 yr by damtom85

What engine did you have in your Audi?

 

As to if ' is 10 miles ( just ) enough for DPF regenerations ? ' that depends on the journey. For my trip of 11.5 miles each way with 7.5 miles of 60/70mph dual-carriage way that normally flows reasonably freely it is. If mostly reasonably flowing traffic so by keeping to lower gears you can mostly keep the revs up at least close to 2000 you will be OK as should it complete in two journeys. If slow traffic, lots of queueing etc then you could need to go for a 30 minute blast at least every month. Again need not be 80mph, just 2000 rpm by keeping in 3rd gear. You will know if a regeneration is occurring as when stationary the tickover will be about 1000rpm rather than 800rpm. The only other time this happens is if the battery is slightly low plus high electrical load e.g. headlights, blower at full speed, maybe heated rear window etc on. As soon as you are rolling the tickover jumps to 900rpm so more output from the alternator for the electric power steering pump.

 

Regardless you need to keep in lower gears so always above 1600rpm when under power so the turbo is spinning fast enough for best efficiency and hence lowest emissions and soot generation. This is totally against the gear change indication which prompts to change up far too soon, it was never updated friom the older 1.9PD.

 

EGR failure is the far more likely than DPF. What do you know of the history of the car as it may well already have been replaced. What warranty do you have with the car should you find an issue soon? While a new EGR is around £330 plus a few seals etc the real issue is the time to gain access then reassemble after swapping the part so around 5 hours workshop time. From a dealer £1000+, they may well add £90 diagnostic charge too. From an independent VAG specialist rather less if say £50/hr.

Edited 25 November, 20169 yr by delta925

Thank you for that info Delta.

maybe some of you I will make laugh but I had Audi A8 2012 3.0 Tdi Auto, so it is huge downsize for me. I have never had problems with dpf for 2 years of owning it, tbh I didn't have any problems with this car. I know dpf in audi is passive and active.

anyway I am not afraid of doing mechanical work and also I do own ross tech vcds (VAG com). I am quite surprised that egr can't be mended, and only way to fix it is by replacing for new unit. and as I read thread on this forum egr failure is quite common.

skoda I bought is without warranty and I don't have a lot of its history. I got it for good price so I can't complain. 45k on clock, I need to do service and known issue is clutch, not slipping yet thought but bitting point is high.

Maybe a lot of them have high biting points.

Both of mine do, one has 50,000 miles but the 1.9

And my 1.6 CR has 60,000 and a high biting point

Yeah, mine has a nice high biting point too, and it's been like that for the last 70_000 miles.

I should add, mine has no EGR, no DPF and is remapped and still no slipping if it helps keep your mind at rest

Great advice from delta925.

My wife's Monte Estate has done 27k miles & so far no DPF or ERG problems. Using 3rd gear for

almost all country lane driving as opposed to Skoda's "indicated change to 5th gear"  is actually more fuel efficient.

In fact unless one is doing 70 mph 5th gear is somewhat redundant.

The 1.6 Tdi CR has totally different engine characteristics to the 1.9Tdi engine in her previous MK1

Octavia in which one could chug along all day at around 1500 rpm.

Yes, the 1.6Tdi CR needs plenty of revs!

 

All the information about gear changes, engine speed, idle speed, knowing when a regen is occurring  etc has been posted many times but of course the need to find one of the threads.

 

DanTom,

First my reason for asking about your previous car and the age was simply to try and determine if because that was OK with 10 mile trips then the 1.6CR would also be likely to be OK. The 3.0 of course is a very different beast but I would say a fair change the 1.6 will cope too. Long term how it will be unless it will get a regular blast is another issue.

 

I'm sure EGR repairs / reconditioning would be possible - thorough clean, new seals, new actuator mechanism etc. I guess the first issue is commercially the time taken plus the logistics do not make it viable. The second issue is because with a dealer the workshop time costs more than the parts if the recon part fails another big bill. The third issue of course potentially is more profit!

 

If it was a simple job to remove and refit I suspect there then would be repair kits / exchange reconditioning service from an independent supplier. As it is they are just scrap metal.

 

A big plus is already having VCDS / VagCOM so you can get a full fault code readout.

 

 

If I knew 6 years ago when I ordered my car what I know now I would never have bought the diesel. I did know about the DPF but presumed issues were unlikely before 100,000 miles. I knew nothing about the existence of EGR's. I expected at least 10% better mpg than the 1.9PD TDI too. The 1.6CR may well be actually achieve that but the gains are lost by the restrictions in the exhaust / emissions system. I wonder for my commute how much more economical the 1.6CR is compared to the 1.2TSI. My logic 6 years ago was that over 10 years the difference in the RFL paid for the diesel engine then if the diesel used 20% less fuel I would be better off by around £1500. I presumed overall the servicing costs would be similar.

Edited 25 November, 20169 yr by delta925

great answers guys, thank you again.

today I drove first time skoda to work, as it is B Road there is few sharp bends, max speed 40mph - 50mph, as someone mentioned before 3rd sometimes 4th gear as 5th was redundant. revs close to 2000 sometimes more. we will see how it goes.

I should add, mine has no EGR, no DPF and is remapped and still no slipping if it helps keep your mind at rest

this is interesting, could you tell me rough price for something like that and what about MOT, visually probably MOT tester won't find anything, what about emissions?

Edited 25 November, 20169 yr by damtom85

funny thing about clutch, I said to seller clutch is bitting too high and needs to be changed, for that reason I gave him offer of 1000 pounds less. by what you say guys this is standard on this car. car has towbar and I thought clutch was damaged during towing heavy trailer

Edited 25 November, 20169 yr by damtom85

Tis is interesting, could you tell me rough price for something like that and what about MOT, visually probably MOT tester won't find anything, what about emissions?

Price is around £500 for...

Cat removed, EGR just blanked off but still fitted, DPF "gutted" so everything looks standard really

Not had any problems with MOT or emissions.

It's all remapped out to suit so don't get any problems

great.

so is egr actually left in open position as it is still fitted but blanked off? does price include remap? did you get any extra horse power? thanks

It will be closed as it's blanked so doesn't do anything (I've actually completely removed it now anyway but it's a chew)

Yeah that includes remap, power went from 75bhp to 130bhp

Before you get worried about the DPF and EGR issues, have you had the timing belt done? At 45k miles, irrespective of anything else the timing belt and waterpump should be done. If it gives, then the engine is kaput.

I've had an expensive few months recently. Got the timing belt and waterpump done last week. Ouch, how much?

A month or so ago, flashing glow plug light, then engine management light. Damn exhaust pressure sensor had failed, plus wiring fault to glow plug. Car has done 66k miles on 2010 plate.

To be honest if I was buying diesel again (this is my daily workhorse commute) I'd look for a petrol car.

This car is doing 200+ miles a week and is always up to temperature and does a motorway jaunt of 85 miles twice a week. At this time of year I struggle to get 500 miles out of a tank. I thought it would be more fuel efficient.

Plus side is the 1.6 (105PS) is its a torquey little beast, easy to cruise at 70mph, decent brakes (just don't mention the rear drums), and handles winter weather with ease if fitted with snow tyres.

that was my next question, when timing belt suppose to be changed. every 45k miles?

It will be closed as it's blanked so doesn't do anything (I've actually completely removed it now anyway but it's a chew)

Yeah that includes remap, power went from 75bhp to 130bhp

that's what I meant, closed not open.

I will definitely go that route when egr will fail. thanks

If your worried about dpf can I recommend getting the vag dpf app I think its great can tell when its doing a regen or if it is going to soon, Timing belt is 4 years or 140000 miles iirc

 

Remapped mine after the egr failed got it mapped out and blanked the egr off makes one hell of a difference

Edited 25 November, 20169 yr by jimdiesel

If your worried about dpf can I recommend getting the vag dpf app I think its great can tell when its doing a regen or if it is going to soon, Timing belt is 4 years or 140000 miles iirc

Remapped mine after the egr failed got it mapped out and blanked the egr off makes one hell of a difference

thanks for that, it seems to be great app and I need to try it.

regarding timing belt why Spartacus above says 45k?

Edited 25 November, 20169 yr by damtom85

Not sure there seems to be a lot of confusion about this tbh think the service book says different also http://www.mytimingbelt.com/Results.aspx?ModelId=212

 

Better safe than sorry with timing belts tho

thanks for that, it seems to be great app and I need to try it.

regarding timing belt why Spartacus above says 45k?

Skoda and Audi cars are all part of VAG group. Quite honestly their service reception struggle with this type of questions. My rule of thumb has always been 5 years or 60k miles for 3-4 cylinder diesels, and 80k miles or 5 years for V6 or 6- cylinder diesels. Renew the waterpump at the same time. Skoda fixed price servicing is your best bet, unless you have a local independent who can price match. http://www.skoda.co.uk/owners/service-and-maintenance/simply-fixed

I also did the same as above. 60,000 miles I changed mine.

I will try do myself then, as I'm not afraid of doing it.

one more issue with my fabia, driver doors dropped a bit so when I close it I have the noise of metal touching metal. once door is closed, everything is in line with chassis. anyone had similar problem. I am guessing door needs adjustment on hinges or something similar.

After I posted last night I thought about the timing belt so am pleased to see others have brought this up.

 

Yes there is a lot of confusion. As I understand originally this engine was supposed to have the Continental ' fit for life belt ', inspect at 210,000 km then at intervals I can't recall after. No times or replacement mentioned. With my plan 6 years ago of keeping for 10 years / 80,000 miles then I thought it was a job would I never need to have done.

 

The VAG UK global recommendation was 4 years / 60000 miles for all engines, or at least all 3/4 cylinder, then revised to 5 years / 60000 miles for the CR based on it being easier on the belt than the PD.

 

While the belt is being done always change the water pump as should it go all needs doing again.

 

I had mine done this year, bank account £400 lighter .....

 

 

 

Regarding the remaps, DPF being an empty can, EGR bypassed or removed I wonder as MOT checks get ever more vigilant if these will get detected unless you have a ' friendly ' tester who will give a pass so long as it passes the ' probe in the exhaust ' test ?

Edited 26 November, 20169 yr by delta925