Hey guys,

as per title, my VRS keeps cutting out. I "think" i may know what it is but thought i would see what you all think to

Basically, the car is driving fine, nothing majorly unusual to report but when i slow to a stop and depress the clutch the revs drop all the way to the bottom and it sometimes cuts out, other times they bounce back up to around 600-800rpm, hunts very slightly and then settles.

This is every time which is very frustrating it stop start trafic!

Now when i bought the car the revs hunted really bad and would cut out, it had a few codes come up on the diagnostics i used, cleared them and a couple came back, one being the carbon canister.

Due to funds at the time i unplugged it and it drove/idled perfectly. I have since plugged it back in as got sick of looking at the EML and it has been fine since, untill now. The EML light is not on at the moment and no codes are showing.

What are your opinions? The carbon canister again or maybe something else?

As i could unplug it again but means the EML showing againand maybe causing other problems

I am very new to these cars and have never owned a turbo before so i am abit of a noob!

Any help would be great and will answer any questions best i can.

Thanks

When did you last clean the throttle body?.

Never, i have only had the car for around 2 months now.

it does have a coolant temp sensor/stuck thermostat fault which is getting fixed next weekend.

Get those 2 fixed first, then if it persists, clean the throttle body.

 

There is plenty of info on this job for you over in the mk1 section.

 

Hope it helps,

 

Phil.

Edited 11 December, 20169 yr by kentphil1

Ok mate i will do

Thank you.

Hey guys.

little update, had the coolant temp sensor and new thermostat done and plugged the evap system back in.

all was well untill last night and it has started cutting out AGAIN!

have yet to clean the throttle body, if h remove this does it need resetting via a computer or?

also any other ideas as to why it may do this? drives normally in every other way

Pulling any fault codes with a reader might be a good idea instead of just guessing at possible causes.

Pulling any fault codes with a reader might be a good idea instead of just guessing at possible causes.

I have already..

Zero fault codes and no EML.

Car is now extremely rough on a cold start and strugles to start at all the first few times, it wil just fire then cut out.

Try to giv it a rev to help it along and it is like it is unresponsive to throttle inputs.

perfectly fine once warmed up.

Edited 2 January, 20179 yr by SpankyVRS1

Is it running rough or physically misfiring?.

 

If it is missing, it could be a coil pack starting to fail - there is a recall for this providing you have oem coilpacks fitted and no pattern units. This should throw a code, but there have been a few people on here have had issues with coilpacks without a code being thrown up.

 

If it is rough running, then check your vacuum and breather hoses by and under the inlet manifold for splits or sounds of hissing escaping air. If that appears ok, clean the throttle body by removing the body from the manifold but keep the electrical connection attached so that a helper can keep their foot on the throttle to hold the butterfly open while you clean it. That way you avoid having to do a throttle body alignment after you finish cleaning. Use a new gasket, as you can get an air leak there if you are not careful.

 

Lastly, when did you last check/replace the air filter and sparkplugs?. Do you here the SAI pump run during the first 90 seconds that the engine runs from cold?.

Edited 9 January, 20179 yr by kentphil1

It is/was just running rough, i say was as it is perfectly fine again now! Starts first time, no more cutting out etc

in regards to the recall, would any skoda dealer/garage be able to tell me if this has been done or not?

i will check the hoses and clean the TB like you have said, that will make it alot easier for me so thanks for that little guide.

Air filter and plugs, i honestly don't know but they will be getting replaced when i get paid this month, do you recommend any certain type/brand as there are alot of choices listed on ECP.

In regards to the SAI pump running, yes it runs, revs sit at around 1.2k when it is running but you can not drive it untill it stops, it will judder, bunnyhop, try to stall, and have zero throttle response at times when it is running, pefectly fine once stopped though.

i will also add, the carbon canistor is clicking/ticking quite loudly, thought the engine was tapping at first till i popped the bonnet and heard it, unsure if this could cause rough idling or cutting out but i am looking at replacing it with a new unit.

Edited 9 January, 20179 yr by SpankyVRS1

I run NGK PFR6Q'S in my vrs, they seem to work well and last a good while. People seem to run NGK BKR7E's if the car has a remap.

 

Yes, any Skoda main agent should be able to tell from your reg and vin number if the recall has been carried out.

 

The carbon canister tapping is fairly normal, and can get quite noisy at times. Unless you are throwing codes, it is probably serviceable for it's age.

 

It is possible you may have a fuel filter starting to block, but we are starting to guess at things, so until you eliminate the simple/ service items, you should not get too fixed on that road yet.

 

These engines are quite good, but it is normally the emission control pipe work on the breather that falls apart with age and use that causes issues rather than big stuff unless the car has a starship mileage on it. Have a check of the "Y" pipe connected for the cambox for holes under the "Y" part of the hose. Also check the "S" pipe for splits under the inlet manifold.

 

Just out of interest, does the rough running start if the tank is low on fuel, or is it not a factor?.

Edited 10 January, 20179 yr by kentphil1

no, the rough running happens at any fuel level on start up.

it is literally only when the SAI pump is running now, otherwise it is fine. can be ever so slightly hesitant off boost at around 1.5k then suddenly zooms off but nothing to major.

Will check all those pipes etc at the weekend.

in regards to the fuel filter, it will be getting changed along with the plugs etc anyways.

oil + filter is new as it was all replaced when the pick up pipe was done as it had blocked up resulting in no oil presure.

milage is currently at 125,000

Just be patient with the pipe clips when doing the fuel filter, as they break easily if you rush or force them.

 

I tend to wait a few seconds for the SAI to die down before driving mine, seems to stop most of the issues that you get trying to go "straight off the bat" so to speak.

 

When you check your pipes, if they are split under the manifold, you would be wise to budget an extra few quid for the PCV valve in the pipe near the oil filter housing, as that can stick and cause strange boost issues. Best thing I did on mine - I really could not believe something so trivial could make such a difference.

.

At that mileage, it is just run in. :giggle:  Seriously though, that is not high at all compared with some octy's out there. As you have found out, regular good quality oil changes can save many issues with the pickup later on.