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Helix or Sachs SRE

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If you were going to spend £1000 of your hard earned cash on a clutch would you go for Helix or Sachs SRE ?

 

Would be interested in why you would choose one over the other.

 

Thanks

The pedal is very heavy on the Helix,Sachs pedal is only just slightly heavier than standard.

Both will make your gearbox sound like a bag of spanners :(

You can't have a higher clamping force without a stronger diaphragm, so you'll always get a heavier pedal with uprated clutches unless they're crap (techniclutch anyone?).

 

Your gearbox will sound like a bagful of spanners in a tumble dryer, people will turn and look at your car while sat at the lights. Not good for long-term reliability either, that gearbox is fragile enough as it is.

 

Competition clutches are; surprise, surprise, for competition use only, not daily drivers.

 

Stick with a DMF rather than change to a SMF and resist the temptation to do hard starts, that way the DMF should be fine.

  • Author

Thanks for the replies.

 

I already have a SMF and have accepted the rattle in exchange for a strong clutch, unfortunately the one I have now is starting to slip (max torque clutches - 6 paddle clutch and SMF)

 

I have been pretty unlucky with clutches/slave cylinders in the VRS and this will be clutch number 4, I am an old bugger and don't do hard starts but I do use the power in gear for overtaking etc

 

1. original clutch and DMF - changed at 49,000 miles, the last 5,000 of these was with a remap

 

2. Uprated Sachs clutch and Sachs DMF changed after 77,000 miles, after first 22,000 miles slave cylinder blew and was replaced, DMF rattling bad and slave cylinder blown 2nd time contaminating clutch so removed.

 

3. Xman vw transporter clutch and uprated 2.0 DMF lasted 5,000 miles, DMF failed badly but clutch ok, got a refund.

 

4. Max Torque Clutches - 6 paddle clutch and SMF fitted, done 6,000 miles and now starting to slip.

 

Between 3 and 4 I fitted the GTB1756 and it has been on rolling road at 240bhp and 350 lbs torque, this has been reduced slightly now due to the excessive smoke and lag with the original remap by Narco (remapped properly now by Kris at Diesel Powered)

 

Changing the clutch/flywheel every 6000 miles is no fun so I want to get something strong this time and willing to pay the £1000 to do so, Darkside SMF (10kg) and Sachs SRE has caught my eye as this is the same weigh as the SMF I have now and I can live with the rattle it makes, Helix SMF is lighter I believe and so probably rattles more but people seem to rate helix as bullet proof?

Edited by duck

I have the sachs sre DMF and 4 paddle clutch. Seems to soak up abuse on road and track and is also fun when you let your mates drive it before you tell them it's a paddle clutch :)

  • Author

I see the Sachs SRE with paddle clutch (SMF) can take nearly 600lbs torque and 390 lbs with DMF, the wear life of paddle clutches seem low, the organic version is rated to 400lbs torque (SMF) and 2-3 times longer life.

 

Do you get any judder with the paddle clutch?

Edited by duck

I see the Sachs SRE with paddle clutch (SMF) can take nearly 600lbs torque and 390 lbs with DMF, the wear life of paddle clutches seem low, the organic version is rated to 400lbs torque (SMF) and 2-3 times longer life.

Do you get any judder with the paddle clutch?

It's been in the car for over 20k now and still looked brand new when it was taken out for a gearbox rebuild and inspected,the DMF perfect and they roughed up the clutch plate and There was a bit of judder until it had re-bed it's self.

Clutch is very heavy and bite is sharp but once you get used to it,its fine. Can happily sit in stop start traffic. Only thing is even with a DMF I get all sorts of noises.

  • Author

Thanks for the info stevobeavo, interesting to hear you are judder free as the paddle clutch I have has always juddered a little pulling away at low revs unless extremely careful.

I can quite happily pull away just using the clutch with no judder.

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