Hi all, I own a 2005 Octavia 1.6fsi Elegance,  117k on clock. On Friday I drove over to my daughters, car was driving fine. Parked up wentry in for a cup of coffee and when I came out to go I started the car up but it sounded rough. E/M light came on dash so I plugged in my code reader and it came back as crankshaft sensor. So I have changed that today and now it's lumpy as hell and rattling. 

 

Now when I bought the car I found it juddered when trying to reverse, so checked through the folder of service history to find a note questioning the dmf. Could my dmf collapsing caused the sensor to pack up and now that is why I have the rattling, which is only when I release throttle of could it be worse, and engine about to fail miserably. 

 

The car has full service history up to March 2017, 117k on clock, apart from the judder when reversing it drove fine with no faults. It's only been on the road a week after MOT and has been well looked after. Receipts for work carried out, 3rd owner from new.

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated or I may have to consider cutting losses and calling scrap man in to collect it.

 

1 minute ago, Cain76 said:

Hi all, I own a 2005 Octavia 1.6fsi Elegance,  117k on clock. On Friday I drove over to my daughters, car was driving fine. Parked up wentry in for a cup of coffee and when I came out to go I started the car up but it sounded rough. E/M light came on dash so I plugged in my code reader and it came back as crankshaft sensor. So I have changed that today and now it's lumpy as hell and rattling. 

 

Now when I bought the car I found it juddered when trying to reverse, so checked through the folder of service history to find a note questioning the dmf. Could my dmf collapsing caused the sensor to pack up and now that is why I have the rattling, which is only when I release throttle of could it be worse, and engine about to fail miserably. 

 

The car has full service history up to March 2017, 117k on clock, apart from the judder when reversing it drove fine with no faults. It's only been on the road a week after MOT and has been well looked after. Receipts for work carried out, 3rd owner from new.

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated or I may have to consider cutting losses and calling scrap man in to collect it.

 

I can still drive even with the rattling although it judders going forwards now.

Edited 30 January, 20179 yr by Cain76

You might want to get this moved to the octavia MK2 section rather than guides, you'll probably get more responses:

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/28-skoda-octavia-mk-ii-2004-2013/

 

No need to start the same topic three times either:

 

Sounds like it is a timing problem caused by a loose tensioner or slipped chain.  Need to confirm no engine damage before consider repairing it. May need to have it recovered (or risk damaging further) if you are keeping it or look for a donor engine.

On 30/01/2017 at 15:10, Cain76 said:

. E/M light came on dash so I plugged in my code reader and it came back as crankshaft sensor. So I have changed that today and now it's lumpy as hell and rattling. 

 

 

In my previous reply, when I read your post,  I thought that the crankshaft sensor DTC has remained. However, having read again you haven't indicated whether the code has cleared and engine light off.  

 

What is the full DTC code and description? Is it still showing any codes following clearing?

Edited 31 January, 20179 yr by TheClient

22 hours ago, TheClient said:

In my previous reply, when I read your post,  I thought that the crankshaft sensor DTC has remained. However, having read again you haven't indicated whether the code has cleared and engine light off.  

 

What is the full DTC code and description? Is it still showing any codes following clearing?

Hi there, e/m light is no longer lit, cleared dtc and no further faults. It runs and ticks over but struggles to increase revs. I have spoken to Skoda today and they have said it sounds as tho timing has slipped due to the tensioner being worn. The fact the engine will start and tick over is good as it shows no internal damage. I am now ordwring new timing kit and having it fitted next week.  I am lucky the car wasn't being driven when it slipped. 

Just now, Cain76 said:

Hi there, e/m light is no longer lit, cleared dtc and no further faults. It runs and ticks over but struggles to increase revs. I have spoken to Skoda today and they have said it sounds as tho timing has slipped due to the tensioner being worn. The fact the engine will start and tick over is good as it shows no internal damage. I am now ordwring new timing kit and having it fitted next week.  I am lucky the car wasn't being driven when it slipped. 

I have also spoken to my local vw garage and a few other people who work on the VW/audi skoda engines and they have said that it is and common problem on the fsI engine for this to happen. I cannot find any info in the service history to show if the chain has ever been changed. Skoda was maintaining it up to 2014.

15 minutes ago, Cain76 said:

Hi there, e/m light is no longer lit, cleared dtc and no further faults. It runs and ticks over but struggles to increase revs. I have spoken to Skoda today and they have said it sounds as tho timing has slipped due to the tensioner being worn. The fact the engine will start and tick over is good as it shows no internal damage. I am now ordwring new timing kit and having it fitted next week.  I am lucky the car wasn't being driven when it slipped. 

Yes, that was my first impression and the reply I gave of a timing problem from timing issues, as you have seen.  Although, it is strange the crankshaft and/or camshaft correlation faults have cleared. Hopefully it can be resolved with the timing kit change out.

 

You may want to discuss with the garage about endoscope going in through the spark plugs to check engine before committing to pay for the timing equipment replacement. edit: perhaps also checking compression.

 

A recent case on a 2.0Tsi involved the skoda dealer replacing the timing bits and undertaking to charge £850 only followed by recommending the engine is replaced at a cost of >£6k!!.

 

Edited 1 February, 20179 yr by TheClient