Detailing Products

[Danwilko]

Right so I have been doing a little machine polishing for a while but I've bought a white car now. And I'm not sure what's the best pads and product to use. If anyone's got any idea would be grateful 

[Chubbs]

Same as you've been using? What have you been using? No need to change cos the car colour is white....

[Hunty278]

As David said, paint colour doesn't come in to polishing, but if you are using glazes on the machine, some say different products are good on different colours. What are you using buddy?

[Danwilko]

All I've used so far is megs but on cheap pads. I'm thinking about chemical quys hex pad but there's lots of colours and cutting levels. I don't only do my own car I do my dads beemer as well so want some all round and was thinking about different compounds, polishes, waxes etc 

[Hunty278]

CG Hexlogic are good mate. I use the orange for heavy polishing (normally need to refine after using a softer pad and polish combo) and green is good for a one step polish. I like the yellow 3M pads too for refining. I did the BMW that's a thread or two below this with a Green Hexlogic pad and Sonax Perfect Finish. That might give you a starting point bud.

[Danwilko]

Thanks mate, so what would you suggest for steps? As in normally I go wash clay wash polish with megs then wax seal glaze. But there's that many different product I don't know where to start 

 

[Hunty278]

What Megs product are you using? 

 

I wash, de tar, de Iron, clay, dry, polish, seal then wax. The glaze could go in between polish and seal if you're after a deeper look but it normally shortens the life of the protection you choose.

[Danwilko]

De tar and iron? I've never even heard of doing that? I haven't been on clean your car for a while. Might have to have a look again. At some kits, has anyone used the glass coating stuff? Think it's quartz and usually very expensive and supposidly last about a year?

[Hunty278]

Tar remover and fallout remover (iron X is the most well know fallout remover, turns purple as the iron dissolves) decontaminated the car.

 

I have used coatings a while ago, but they are tricky to apply. The surface needs to be polished to perfection and then wiped down with panel wipe before application. Then once applied you need intensive lights to see and high spots and buff them before the coating dries. Then ideally you need to keep the car dry for 24 hours. Chris VRS is more au fait with this, but it isn't as easy as wax/sealant.

[Danwilko]

Think I'm gonna just get a range of pads from cyc and some sampler kits of polishes and finishing polish and some more waxes. I've typically just used the cheaper stuff. But new car and that so wanna go a little better. Thanks for the input though 

[Chris_VRS]

I'd recommend trying something like the below link, it will give you an idea of what level of cut you need, then progress to some polish from Menzerna or Koch Chemie.

http://www.slimsdetailing.co.uk/polishing/finishing-polish/chemical-guys-v-line-compound-polishing-sample-pack-4-x-4oz.html

Chemical Guys pads from the same supplier will suffice, mix and match the pads/polishes until you get the results your looking for.

 

From what you've stated above I'd not even pick up the polisher before the paint surface has been prepared properly, this includes the two steps (tar & fallout removers) mentioned above.

http://www.slimsdetailing.co.uk/cleaning/tar-bug-iron-remover/auto-finesse-oblitarate-tar-remover-500ml.html

http://www.slimsdetailing.co.uk/cleaning/tar-bug-iron-remover/bilt-hamber-korrosol-iron-fallout-remover.html

 

With respect I'd not recommend any quartz/ceramic coatings until your competent in the basics of polishing, sealing and/or waxing - for several reasons but the main ones being a 'coating' needs to be applied to as good a paint finish as possible as you are in effect locking in any defects that remain, and it needs to be applied to naked paint which involves a thorough panel wipe down (which you should do anyway after machine polishing).

 

ATB

 

Chris

 

[Danwilko]

1 hour ago, Chris_VRS said:

I'd recommend trying something like the below link, it will give you an idea of what level of cut you need, then progress to some polish from Menzerna or Koch Chemie.

http://www.slimsdetailing.co.uk/polishing/finishing-polish/chemical-guys-v-line-compound-polishing-sample-pack-4-x-4oz.html

Chemical Guys pads from the same supplier will suffice, mix and match the pads/polishes until you get the results your looking for.

 

From what you've stated above I'd not even pick up the polisher before the paint surface has been prepared properly, this includes the two steps (tar & fallout removers) mentioned above.

http://www.slimsdetailing.co.uk/cleaning/tar-bug-iron-remover/auto-finesse-oblitarate-tar-remover-500ml.html

http://www.slimsdetailing.co.uk/cleaning/tar-bug-iron-remover/bilt-hamber-korrosol-iron-fallout-remover.html

 

With respect I'd not recommend any quartz/ceramic coatings until your competent in the basics of polishing, sealing and/or waxing - for several reasons but the main ones being a 'coating' needs to be applied to as good a paint finish as possible as you are in effect locking in any defects that remain, and it needs to be applied to naked paint which involves a thorough panel wipe down (which you should do anyway after machine polishing).

 

ATB

 

Chris

 

Sounds like solid advice however with all due respect. I'm good with the machine and dont have any complaints. I'm just never paid much more than a fiver for pads and I'm ok with the process. I'd just never heard of fallout remover. I've used bug remover before. But the site you mention is new to me and the sample pack is the one I was thinking. So thanks for that. 

 

Hope this reads how it should and not bitching lol